Does this look like enough wear to cause a knocking sound?

This is the end that is up against the pump. The other end is as smooth as glass.

It actually seems worse in the photos than it seems to appears in real life. Maybe it’s the light and shadows.

 

i would replace it and see what happens. its only cheep anyway. it wouldnt be doing any good like that but as they are under quite alot of pressure i couldnt really see a noise coming from it.it must have been in there for some time to wear like that.did you get low on oil at some point??

 

I wouldn't think so but worn pumps can make a noise similar to a tick, clack or knock. Replace rod & pump.

 

Change the pump and rod.

 

Install the pump minus the rod and start the engine , before buying parts


gman

 

SAY WHAT !!!

 

i went ahead and replaced the fuel pump and push rod. the new one is more quiet than the old one, but that didn't fix the noise.

i think next i'm going to drop the oil pan and the timing chain cover and start removing bearings one at a time to look at them. i have some oil leaks down there anyway that i would like to address.

 

I'm not sure that I'd dive into the bearings just yet. Have you tried to isolate the noise with a stethascope(sp)? A rod knock is usually pretty distinctive and can be heard through the pan. It's also pretty unlikely unless the engine has been abused. Have you noticed any drop in oil pressure? I'd try ruling everything else first before tearing into the bottom end. Just my .02.

 

I've not had any oil issues. Never over heated. When the engine is up to temp, i get about 35 psi at idle and just shy of 70 psi at cruise.

I've never red lined the car if that's what you mean by abused.

I've recently readjusted the lash, but that didn't fix it. Only other thing i was going to do today but forgot was to measure the lift on each lifter.

I'm getting a knocking sound that appears after the car gets up to temperature. It is just barely audible at idle. It is most audible between 1000 and 2000 rpm. Much above that speed and the sound seems to disappear. It's not always rhythmic.

My timing is set pretty basic at the moment, 8* btdc. Didn't want to start pushing that one up until I got this noise worked out.

I bought a cheap stethoscope and from above the noise is loudest at the right rear of the engine. guess i will have to listen some more from below.

I was thinking of just going ahead and pulling bearings one at a time from below to examine them because i have a few very small oil leaks any way so i could replace the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and timing chain cover gasket while i am at it.

Is there something bad about removing a bearing and putting it right back on? I have a torque wrench. I can put them back on to spec.

would it be a good idea to pull each push rod and look at their ends?

 

I had a noise like that once. It was an egg-shaped rod journal.

-Mark.

 

mine had a knocking sound it ended up being just the flywheel. you should try a stethascope before ripping your engine apart.

 

Have your made sure your exhaust manifolds are not leaking? Sometimes a leaky seal can sound like a tick but they are not as low as to sound like a knock. Know what I mean?

 

You don't have to remove the bearing from the rod caps, and it's okay to pull a cap to inspect it. Before you do that though, when you get the pan off, is try to move each rod end up and down. They WILL be able to move side to side a bit so you will feel that...but they should NOT move up and down.

If any of them move up and down by hand then you have a bearing problem, and maybe a rod end problem.

If you have any loose ones, pull that cap, and see if it's spun. You'll be able to tell because the alignment tabs won't be in the notches and the seams won't line up with the cap seams.

Also, if you have a spun bearing...the engine has to come out. You can't do the needed work from under the car. That crank will need to be turned, maybe replaced, and all the rods will need to be repaired for the new crank.

Now, if you have movement on one of the rods, but that bearing did not spin, you might have some less involved options. You can mic the crank, and take the cap and bearing in to a machine shop to measure. They will tell you if it's within spec to replace the bearing, or if you'll need to pull the engine and rebuild the bottom end.

I hope you don't find any movement, because it usually means a LOT of work and time to get it fixed right.

 

i used to have an exhause leak, but i changed out the manifold gaskets about two weeks ago. i wish it was just that.....