Help, C3 engine's not getting any gas.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Thanks for the relay location been looking all over for it. Sound like I am two steps behind you. I replaced the relay, but When I test voltage at fuel pump end I get 8.5 volts on the pink wire and 0 on the brown. Which one is the power for the pump. Diagram was not real clear. The voltage shows up when cranking right? OR do Ihave to bypass the oil pressure switch. How do I do that? Any other ideas? Jeff
Yeah, I got the same readings. The pink is for the fuel gauge. Have you checked the ALDL yet? Did you hear the FP? In addition, if your ECM is working you can read the codes.
Cross reference this thread.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1565281819
I should have an update mid week, I'm at the mercy of UPS again.
John
Last edited by 82crossfirevette; May 3, 2008 at 07:30 PM.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
You guys rock. I am getting power to the fule pump when, I power terminal G, but no fuel action. Removed the fule pump and connector hose was desinagrated, and pump is dead. Got new one on order. My question now is when I tunr the ignition on, I get power to the pump for only about 4 seconds. Will the power kick back on after engine starts? I guess I can wait and see, but thought you might have some insite. Jeff
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: Plano Texas
That's typical behavior. The pump will come back on when you start the engine.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 1
From: St Augustine FL
when you trun the key the pump primes the system then cuts out. When the engine is starts the pump should come back on and remain on while running. when you turn the car off you will hear the pump run for a few seconds and then cut off.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
'82 update:
The new(rebuilt) ECM arrived today and nothing changed. On ignition the pump isn't getting any volts "0". I've confirmed the pump works via the ALDL.
I changed the fuel pump, assembly and hoses, fuel filter, ECM, PROM and still nothing.
Stepping back and reevaluating the issue, I may reconsider it being the alarm. It's still not working. When I lock the doors and open it via the inside the alarm doesn't sound. Yep, the horns work. The car gets power, engine wants to run but the fuel pump's not getting the power. In addition, the check engine light isn't getting any power so I can't pull codes. Would the alarm shut this down?
Needless to say frustration is starting to set in.
Any ideas?
The new(rebuilt) ECM arrived today and nothing changed. On ignition the pump isn't getting any volts "0". I've confirmed the pump works via the ALDL.
I changed the fuel pump, assembly and hoses, fuel filter, ECM, PROM and still nothing.
Stepping back and reevaluating the issue, I may reconsider it being the alarm. It's still not working. When I lock the doors and open it via the inside the alarm doesn't sound. Yep, the horns work. The car gets power, engine wants to run but the fuel pump's not getting the power. In addition, the check engine light isn't getting any power so I can't pull codes. Would the alarm shut this down?
Needless to say frustration is starting to set in.
Any ideas?
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
From: Ga.
Two things come to mind.
1. The ignition switch could be causing the problem, or wiggle the little buzzer box that plugs into the fuse panel. Sometimes if I hit mine the fuel injectors want pump fuel.
2. There is probably a problem with the pigtail that plugs into the back of the center console. You need to take a volmeter and trace the CEL light circuit out. It is detailed in the service manual.
I know that you are frustrated right now, but you have to eliminate one thing at a time. Follow the troubleshooting, and pay close detail to the instructions. I would start with the fuel pump 1st. If it doesn't run you want get any help from the codes.
1. The ignition switch could be causing the problem, or wiggle the little buzzer box that plugs into the fuse panel. Sometimes if I hit mine the fuel injectors want pump fuel.
2. There is probably a problem with the pigtail that plugs into the back of the center console. You need to take a volmeter and trace the CEL light circuit out. It is detailed in the service manual.
I know that you are frustrated right now, but you have to eliminate one thing at a time. Follow the troubleshooting, and pay close detail to the instructions. I would start with the fuel pump 1st. If it doesn't run you want get any help from the codes.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
2. Can't check codes the "Check Engine Light" isn't working.
2a. Check engine bulb is good.
2b. Check engine bulb/contacts are clean.
Moving on to 62-24 chart 4A
Thanks - John
Last edited by 82crossfirevette; May 8, 2008 at 10:48 AM.
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Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
From: Ga.
Did some research on my car today. The only thing I can do to keep the fuel pump from running by the key is removing the 10amp fuse at the very top of the box.
Even removing the oil pressure switch connector does not effect it.
Even removing the oil pressure switch connector does not effect it.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Thanks! 
I completed "chart 2" 6E-21 (Fuel injection - No "check engine" light)
1. test light off / pin 20
2. test light on / pin16
3. test light off / pin 10 or 15
Test result: Repair open or short to ground in continuous battery circuit.
I completed "chart 2" 6E-21 (Fuel injection - No "check engine" light)
1. test light off / pin 20
2. test light on / pin16
3. test light off / pin 10 or 15
Test result: Repair open or short to ground in continuous battery circuit.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
The car is running.
After hours of frustration and studying the service manual it turned out to be the 25amp fuse in the battery compartment. :o
Yep, I'm laughing along with you.
Before I stored the car, 5+ years ago, my t-tops were stolen. I rolled it in the garage and forgot about it. Recently, I checked all the fuses and replaced the fuel pump which was in need replacement and couldn't figure out what else was wrong. After discussing the problem with dirtbuster1, he directed me towards the above test and figured it out. ... When my tops were stolen they removed the fuse from the battery compartment. I had no idea there was a fuse there until today. The car started up with no hesitation and idled beautifully.
Huge thanks to dirtbuster1 and everyone here on the forum. You guys ROCK!
After hours of frustration and studying the service manual it turned out to be the 25amp fuse in the battery compartment. :o
Yep, I'm laughing along with you. Before I stored the car, 5+ years ago, my t-tops were stolen. I rolled it in the garage and forgot about it. Recently, I checked all the fuses and replaced the fuel pump which was in need replacement and couldn't figure out what else was wrong. After discussing the problem with dirtbuster1, he directed me towards the above test and figured it out. ... When my tops were stolen they removed the fuse from the battery compartment. I had no idea there was a fuse there until today. The car started up with no hesitation and idled beautifully.
Huge thanks to dirtbuster1 and everyone here on the forum. You guys ROCK!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,000
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, Mn USA
I just realized something.
You just discovered a great anti-theft feature for 82s, remove the 25A fuse to the fuel pump. They not going anywhere unless they got a flat bed or are rolling the car downhill!!!!!
Good to hear you got it resolved. Now you know you have a nice new fuel pump.
You just discovered a great anti-theft feature for 82s, remove the 25A fuse to the fuel pump. They not going anywhere unless they got a flat bed or are rolling the car downhill!!!!!
Good to hear you got it resolved. Now you know you have a nice new fuel pump.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Yes, onto the to-do list.
I swapped the "check engine" bulb socket, like you mentioned dirtbuster1, and it's working now.
New short list:
1. There two bulbs/sockets missing from the cluster.
2. The gas gauge isn't working
3. I suspect the temp gauge isn't working. I didn't think to look at it before the car turned over. It's was just below 150 for 20+ minutes. I'll make note of it tomorrow.
4. The brake fluid is toast. The pedal hits the floor with little to no braking action.
MN-Brent, I was just thinking about that but if you loose your 25 amp....
Thanks again! - John
I swapped the "check engine" bulb socket, like you mentioned dirtbuster1, and it's working now.
New short list:
1. There two bulbs/sockets missing from the cluster.
2. The gas gauge isn't working
3. I suspect the temp gauge isn't working. I didn't think to look at it before the car turned over. It's was just below 150 for 20+ minutes. I'll make note of it tomorrow.
4. The brake fluid is toast. The pedal hits the floor with little to no braking action.
MN-Brent, I was just thinking about that but if you loose your 25 amp....
Thanks again! - John
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
From: Ga.
While you still have your center gauges loose, check out the fuel gauge troubleshooting guide. You jump 2 of the wires one way for full, the other way for empty. If that works sounds like something in the fuel tank.
The coolant sensor is on the DS head, just below the exhaust manifold. Your looking for a green wire. Either its loose, or your radiator is very low on water.
Glad you got the CEL light working. 1 less thing.
The coolant sensor is on the DS head, just below the exhaust manifold. Your looking for a green wire. Either its loose, or your radiator is very low on water.
Glad you got the CEL light working. 1 less thing.
