Brake/fuel lines
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 741
Likes: 1
From: Woodstock GA
You can't double flare stainless tubing at home - you need a $500 hydraulic flaring tool, which is out of the question for me. You can only single flare stainless at home, and even then it can only be flared to a 37 degree flare. which doesn't create as tight a seal as 45 degrees on regular steel lines. The reason they can only be flared to 37 degrees is due to the fact that the stainless steel splits when flaring. Believe me, I have done my research on this topic, which is why I have decided to go with regular steel.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 741
Likes: 1
From: Woodstock GA
I think you need to completely flush the brake lines every 2 or 3 (?) years to keep water from accumulating. DOT 3 is hydroscopic (spelling?) it absorbs water from the atmosphere. There's a lot of garages that have an open container of brake fluid to dump in customers MC if their fluid is low. I think an open bake fluid container becomes quickly contaminated with water.
Also, I wonder about stress cracking of old steel lines. They get pulsed with pressures of 1000 to 1500 psi every time you hit the brakes. You wonder about fatique cracking. A friend of mine bought an old car to use as a daily driver. Not to long afterward, he hit the brakes and the brake line cracked open. Don't know if it was a rust or fatique problem, perhaps both. He swerved off the road into a culvert to avoid a rear end accident.
Also, I wonder about stress cracking of old steel lines. They get pulsed with pressures of 1000 to 1500 psi every time you hit the brakes. You wonder about fatique cracking. A friend of mine bought an old car to use as a daily driver. Not to long afterward, he hit the brakes and the brake line cracked open. Don't know if it was a rust or fatique problem, perhaps both. He swerved off the road into a culvert to avoid a rear end accident.
You are correct about brake fluid absorbing water (though I believe it is "hygroscopic"). If I don't use all the fluid in a job, I throw it away. I also have used silicone fluid in some of my cars, due mainly to the fact that it won't strip paint if there is a leak (so many master cylinders, even new ones, will leak at the rear and ruin a painted booster or firewall...ask me how I know!). I'm either going to use a Wilwood or a late model style MC on my 81, so hopefully it won't have that problem. I'll be running Ford HD fluid in it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 1
From: SOUTH ELGIN IL
I ordered a SS brake line set for my 68 with manual brakes. They sent me a set for power brakes. (The main front to rear brake line is different for power and manual brakes since the vacuum booster places the MC in a different position.) I called and they sent me a new main front to rear brake line supposedly for manual brakes. It was the same as the first. I called them and they refused to admit an error, they said that I was incorrect. I made a tracing of the original manual brake line I removed, and a tracing of the line they sent me, and the difference was obvious. I called them to say I would fax the drawing to them, but they said they didn't want to have anything more to do with it. They said they were sure they were correct, etc...
I next ordered lines from In-Line tube and they fit perfectly. Also, for $30 extra, In-Line will use SS fittings on their SS lines. I ordered another set for my 70 from them last week. Also, ordered their SS parking brake cables. I installed a set on my 68 - look really nice.
I next ordered lines from In-Line tube and they fit perfectly. Also, for $30 extra, In-Line will use SS fittings on their SS lines. I ordered another set for my 70 from them last week. Also, ordered their SS parking brake cables. I installed a set on my 68 - look really nice.
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton Alberta
Hey Guys,
I have a thought for you.
Why not use the Swagelok Stainless Steel tubing and fittings?
It is mostly for Industrial uses in the Chemical and Oil & Gas industry for Instrumentation & Pneumatics, but it works awsome for automotive and looks good too.
I used this for my tranny cooler lines.
The tubing and fittings are good up to 10,000psi, but I dont think it is permited for break lines even though it is superior.
anyway, that is my $0.02
I have a thought for you.
Why not use the Swagelok Stainless Steel tubing and fittings?
It is mostly for Industrial uses in the Chemical and Oil & Gas industry for Instrumentation & Pneumatics, but it works awsome for automotive and looks good too.
I used this for my tranny cooler lines.
The tubing and fittings are good up to 10,000psi, but I dont think it is permited for break lines even though it is superior.
anyway, that is my $0.02
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,231
Likes: 7
From: Fort Pierce Florida
I've ordered SS lines from a couple different vendors and never had a problem. I mean, you always have to do a little bending, but nothing major. I just can't imagine having your Vette completely apart and not using SS lines.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
Didn't you Make your stainless brake lines?
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,231
Likes: 7
From: Fort Pierce Florida
Just the fuel line on my '72. I used AN fittings in the fuel lines, and didn't have to double flare anything so I'm no help there. On my '82 the brake lines, fuel lines, and tranny lines came from Classic Tubing, and fit pretty well (even when I ordered a few things customized). On my '72 the brake lines came from Van Steel and fit pretty good also.
Don't get me wrong, in all cases I had to re-bend some things, but I got them where I needed them to go without having to cut anything. Bending the SS fuel lines were a PITA, but with a good quality bending tool and some oil you can get it done.
Don't get me wrong, in all cases I had to re-bend some things, but I got them where I needed them to go without having to cut anything. Bending the SS fuel lines were a PITA, but with a good quality bending tool and some oil you can get it done.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I got the L-88 fuel line kit (pump to carb) from one of the big vendors. Was not even close to fitting, and looked like 2 pounds of poop in a 1 pound bag. I ended up bending steel and all AN fittings.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
8th Gear
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
For the brakes, try fedhillusa.com.
The pipe size is 1/4" for main front to back and 3/16" for the lines across the frames and to the calipers.
The 3/16" uses 3/8 x 24 nuts on the caliper ends and at the brass block.
The MC 3/16" line is 1/2" x 20 nuts.
The MC 1/4" line is 7/16" x 20 and 9/16" x 18.
The 1/4" front to rear uses a 9/16" x 18 and a 7/16" x 24....
I think I got that right...
The pipe size is 1/4" for main front to back and 3/16" for the lines across the frames and to the calipers.
The 3/16" uses 3/8 x 24 nuts on the caliper ends and at the brass block.
The MC 3/16" line is 1/2" x 20 nuts.
The MC 1/4" line is 7/16" x 20 and 9/16" x 18.
The 1/4" front to rear uses a 9/16" x 18 and a 7/16" x 24....
I think I got that right...
Last edited by corvettedreamz; May 2, 2008 at 02:36 PM.
