New create engine blown...first time at the track
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 700
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From: Lantana TX
A cast crank will take a lot but a 500 HP Gen 1 plus a 200 shot of nitrous is asking a lot. I respect Jackson's opinion but I wouldn't chance it. I would go forged bottom end and ARP studs throughout. I used billet main caps too. The weak link always breaks. The way my luck goes the one thing I try to cut corners on or say "that should work" is always what screws up.
What do you think
I will be looking for an 87 or newer Vortec block with a 1 piece rear main seal so I can use the same Cam, lifters, oil pan, etc.
Is there anything I should change with out going overboard.
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=22632
SB Chevy 350/383 Short Block Assembly
· Eagle forged 4340 steel cranksahft, internal balanced
· Eagle forged 4340 steel H beam connecting rods
· SRP forged Pistons
· Performance Moly Pistons Ring Set
· Clevite 77 high performance rod & main bearing set
· Seasoned 4 bolt main block with ARP main bolts
· Dura Bond Cam Bearings
· Dura Bond Finishing Kit
· Pioneer Brass Freeze Plugs
· Victor Reinze Rear Main Seal
Stroke Rod Bore Size Dish/Dome CR w/64cc CR w/70cc
3.750 6.000 4.030 (+.030) -24cc Flat top 9.8 9.2
$2700 shipping included
Lastly has anyone ever heard of CNC motorsports??
Last edited by 76 sting; Apr 29, 2008 at 12:42 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 963
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From: melbourne,Australia
76 Sting,i have a 383 similar to what you want....mine is 9.5 static compression with really well ported and high flowing Brodix heads....i have the eagle 6" h beam 4340 rods with the high pin light weight JE srp pistons..the block is a bowtie hd with 4340 bowtie racing 4 bolt mains....i deliberately have a flat tappet cam but there is no problem revving it to 6500 - 6800.....i am assured it will buzz to 7200 with no problems but i haven't tried that yet....i suspect that anything much more than 9.5 by way of compression on pump gas will be too much
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,429
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From: Macon, GA
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 254
Likes: 5
From: ingleside illinois
I would bump the compression to 10.5 to1.Dont put more than 100hp of n20 on those pistons until you get the tune right.Srp is a cheap but good piston-until you get aroung the 175-200 on spray.Then the piston ring lands and skirts start to break.If you had the money i would find a little better piston if your going to run 200,because that means 225 then 250.Read your plugs well and make sure your fuel system and timing are perfect.Or you will be posting on here by the end of the year again.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 700
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From: Lantana TX
I would bump the compression to 10.5 to1.Dont put more than 100hp of n20 on those pistons until you get the tune right.Srp is a cheap but good piston-until you get aroung the 175-200 on spray.Then the piston ring lands and skirts start to break.If you had the money i would find a little better piston if your going to run 200,because that means 225 then 250.Read your plugs well and make sure your fuel system and timing are perfect.Or you will be posting on here by the end of the year again.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
My engine has been good to me and gave me the performance that I was looking for.. I wanted to run 9's on engine and I did.. Ran 9.50's with a 100 shot and should be in the 8's on the full 250 shot. Might go with 18 degree heads in 1 - 2 years to get into mid 8's.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 254
Likes: 5
From: ingleside illinois
If your not going to spray more than 150 -175 you should be fine,but pay very close attention to tune at 175.200 and over yes you need a different piston.I would run a custom je or cp piston-trust me when your engine blows up your gonna be pissed.As far as eagle cranks yes the 4340 is fine as long as your engine shop checks them i run them also.I was just saying not to run the eagle cast crank in your situation.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 700
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From: Lantana TX
If your not going to spray more than 150 -175 you should be fine,but pay very close attention to tune at 175.200 and over yes you need a different piston.I would run a custom je or cp piston-trust me when your engine blows up your gonna be pissed.As far as eagle cranks yes the 4340 is fine as long as your engine shop checks them i run them also.I was just saying not to run the eagle cast crank in your situation.
As you said I will be pissed if it goes again. This will be my 3 engine in 2years (not due to NOS). I will check into the cost difference between the two pistons and hope that it is not much more in price.
No cast allowed is going to be my next bumper sticker
Do you think this will change the HP at all. I will have better components and a 6" rod vs the 5.7, but I do not know if that will change the HP or TQ levels.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 7
From: Adelaide South Australia
the 6" rod, due to it's additional length, directs more downward force from combustion compared to a shorter rod.
This should result in slightly more torque production.... but don't expect a significant increase.
Would probably pick it on an engine dyno, but not with the buttometer.
Did you get a chance to run the old motor up on a dyno?
This should result in slightly more torque production.... but don't expect a significant increase.
Would probably pick it on an engine dyno, but not with the buttometer.
Did you get a chance to run the old motor up on a dyno?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 700
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From: Lantana TX
the 6" rod, due to it's additional length, directs more downward force from combustion compared to a shorter rod.
This should result in slightly more torque production.... but don't expect a significant increase.
Would probably pick it on an engine dyno, but not with the buttometer.
Did you get a chance to run the old motor up on a dyno?
This should result in slightly more torque production.... but don't expect a significant increase.
Would probably pick it on an engine dyno, but not with the buttometer.
Did you get a chance to run the old motor up on a dyno?
I realy want to get to 500HP so I cold stick a 200 shot on there to get 650-700HP.
I might change the cam to something more aggressive.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Salina Kansas
My engine builder used basically the parts you listed on my sb427 with a few exceptions.
Used the $600 Mahle forged pistons (with rings)
Used the 7/16" polished, I beam 4340 Scat rods (not sure if that is what you were talking about or not)
Used the Dart Little M block
He thought it would be hard to break and puts a warrantee on it too (even for drag racing).
Used the $600 Mahle forged pistons (with rings)
Used the 7/16" polished, I beam 4340 Scat rods (not sure if that is what you were talking about or not)
Used the Dart Little M block
He thought it would be hard to break and puts a warrantee on it too (even for drag racing).
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Lantana TX
My engine builder used basically the parts you listed on my sb427 with a few exceptions.
Used the $600 Mahle forged pistons (with rings)
Used the 7/16" polished, I beam 4340 Scat rods (not sure if that is what you were talking about or not)
Used the Dart Little M block
He thought it would be hard to break and puts a warrantee on it too (even for drag racing).
Used the $600 Mahle forged pistons (with rings)
Used the 7/16" polished, I beam 4340 Scat rods (not sure if that is what you were talking about or not)
Used the Dart Little M block
He thought it would be hard to break and puts a warrantee on it too (even for drag racing).
was yours costly?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Lantana TX
I think I might bump up the cam and change the springs over to a set of beehive's or something simular.
