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Ended up with a 9.5 (blown engine half way down the track), but had a 1.81 60ft time...does any one know what that will roughly equal in a 1/8mile and no I did not use the NOS.
OK I am not looking to point fingers. However, I am looking to build a better bottom end so what do you guys think of this set up? I have never built an engine so go easy on me.
Scat 4340 Forged Competition Rotating Assembly
Scat 4340 3.75" Forged Crankshaft, 400 main
Scat 4340 Premium 6.00" I-beam Connecting Rods
JE SRP forged Pistons flat top, 11.6:1 w. 64cc head
1 Piece rear main seal
Also, what do you think this might cost in a small block setup since I need a new block anyway?
What let loose in the engine,this is the compression yo uwere running at the time.How long have you been running that comp and what octane are you running.I no you dont want to hear this but its to much for pump gas.And if you use the n2o at all with this kiss the motor good bye.Now you can go to citgo and get 110 out of the pump.11.0 is max and thats strecthing it You have to be perfectly set up to run that,on pump gas.
What let loose in the engine,this is the compression yo uwere running at the time.How long have you been running that comp and what octane are you running.I no you dont want to hear this but its to much for pump gas.And if you use the n2o at all with this kiss the motor good bye.Now you can go to citgo and get 110 out of the pump.11.0 is max and thats strecthing it You have to be perfectly set up to run that,on pump gas.
This was a create engine from a fairly large engine builder. They all run the 383's at a little over 10.2 compression on 93 oct. it is prety common and no not running NOS yet... It is installed and ready to go, but I was to scared to run it till I got the bugs worked out of her.
Compression ratio doesn't mean much to me if I don't know what cam you're using. Good choice on the Scat parts though. I have the 4340 lightened crank. Nice piece of machine work. I'd frame it if I could.
Compression ratio doesn't mean much to me if I don't know what cam you're using. Good choice on the Scat parts though. I have the 4340 lightened crank. Nice piece of machine work. I'd frame it if I could.
I was looking to use the same came that I now have in it so I can save some money. I don't have deep pockets on this one.
Valve lift:.530/530 (int/exh) 234deg/242deg Dur @ .050
Rocker arms- 1.6:1 ratio complete Hyd Roller
That should bleed off some compression for ya. Look up one of the dynamic compression calculators on the net and run the numbers.
Been there, done that. My 236 242 duration hydraulic roller cam with .520 .540 lift can only handle 10.4 to 1. To run 11.6 to 1 on pump gas you need a cam that would be nearly unstreetable ( is that a word?) If it is a street car (hydraulic roller) 10.2 to 1 is really ideal. If it is a race car (11.6 to 1) you really need a solid cam and a fat wallet.
Been there, done that. My 236 242 duration hydraulic roller cam with .520 .540 lift can only handle 10.4 to 1. To run 11.6 to 1 on pump gas you need a cam that would be nearly unstreetable ( is that a word?) If it is a street car (hydraulic roller) 10.2 to 1 is really ideal. If it is a race car (11.6 to 1) you really need a solid cam and a fat wallet.
So you think the set up I mentioned is OK then? What do you think about a slightly larger cam.. as long as I set up my heads correctly?
Are you running 10.2 or 11.6to1 which is it.Thats a big diff on 93 octane.If its 10.2 you can raise it a little to 10.7 to 10.9 thats the edge.have a shop set up the heads mill them to get the compression you need dont use a bigger head gasket to get their.Then you can put in a bigger cam-but make those heads flow first.What size valves do you have got any flow numbers on heads.
Are you running 10.2 or 11.6to1 which is it.Thats a big diff on 93 octane.If its 10.2 you can raise it a little to 10.7 to 10.9 thats the edge.have a shop set up the heads mill them to get the compression you need dont use a bigger head gasket to get their.Then you can put in a bigger cam-but make those heads flow first.What size valves do you have got any flow numbers on heads.
Now I see what you mean I copied the wrong spec over. It should be presently landing around 10.2 my bad.
I do not know the head flow..will the casting # help? The heads had a lot of porting done to them per the engine shop I use. He said who ever did it did a great job.
Ended up with a 9.5 (blown engine half way down the track), but had a 1.81 60ft time...does any one know what that will roughly equal in a 1/8mile and no I did not use the NOS.
OK I am not looking to point fingers. However, I am looking to build a better bottom end so what do you guys think of this set up? I have never built an engine so go easy on me.
Scat 4340 Forged Competition Rotating Assembly
Scat 4340 3.75" Forged Crankshaft, 400 main
Scat 4340 Premium 6.00" I-beam Connecting Rods
JE SRP forged Pistons flat top, 11.6:1 w. 64cc head
1 Piece rear main seal
Also, what do you think this might cost in a small block setup since I need a new block anyway?
Scat cranks should be fine to 600 HP or so.. Just about the same chinese stuff as Eagle parts. Those are better than people will admit.
Go with a thicker head gasket to bleed off some compression. Are you sure that your block is standard deck height? If it has been decked, your compression will be higher. 11.6:1 compression would be ok if you run a huge cam (at least 255+ degrees .050 duration) and retard the timing to about 32 degrees.. You also need to jet the carburetor on the rich side. If you ever want to race that setup, you'll need to put 100 octane or higher into the tank.
One thing that you have to watch out if using Eagle or Scat cranshafts is that their snout is .001 undersize.. A standard balancer will be loose and a specific balancer for that crank is needed.
You should be able to buy a nice Eagle or Scat short block for about $2k.. Of course it'll be less if you assemble it yourself. However, if you've never built one, I'd have a machine shop do the bearing clearances for you.. That won't cost much and you know that it was done right..
The 60' time is no indication of 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile performance. It's a result of gearing/converter/traction.. I have seen 13 second (1/4 mile) cars 60' in the 1.50's and I have seen 10 second cars 60' in the 1.90's..
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Apr 25, 2008 at 09:31 AM.
Scat cranks should be fine to 600 HP or so.. Just about the same chinese stuff as Eagle parts. Those are better than people will admit.
Go with a thicker head gasket to bleed off some compression. Are you sure that your block is standard deck height? If it has been decked, your compression will be higher. 11.6:1 compression would be ok if you run a huge cam (at least 255+ degrees .050 duration) and retard the timing to about 32 degrees.. You also need to jet the carburetor on the rich side. If you ever want to race that setup, you'll need to put 100 octane or higher into the tank.
One thing that you have to watch out if using Eagle or Scat cranshafts is that their snout is .001 undersize.. A standard balancer will be loose and a specific balancer for that crank is needed.
You should be able to buy a nice Eagle or Scat short block for about $2k.. Of course it'll be less if you assemble it yourself. However, if you've never built one, I'd have a machine shop do the bearing clearances for you.. That won't cost much and you know that it was done right..
The 60' time is no indication of 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile performance. It's a result of gearing/converter/traction.. I have seen 13 second (1/4 mile) cars 60' in the 1.50's and I have seen 10 second cars 60' in the 1.90's..
Thanks for the words and I think I am going to go with an eagle set setup...at least everyone local here is pointing me in that direction.
I see you new engine is being kind to you!!! you numbers are making me sick...just awesome.
Ended up with a 9.5 (blown engine half way down the track), but had a 1.81 60ft time...does any one know what that will roughly equal in a 1/8mile and no I did not use the NOS.
OK I am not looking to point fingers. However, I am looking to build a better bottom end so what do you guys think of this set up? I have never built an engine so go easy on me.
Scat 4340 Forged Competition Rotating Assembly
Scat 4340 3.75" Forged Crankshaft, 400 main
Scat 4340 Premium 6.00" I-beam Connecting Rods
JE SRP forged Pistons flat top, 11.6:1 w. 64cc head
1 Piece rear main seal
Also, what do you think this might cost in a small block setup since I need a new block anyway?
Since no one answered your first question, I will. Don't ask where I got this figure, I don't remember, but a good formula for a 1/4 mile conversion from 1/8th is to multiply the 1/8th ET by 1.538. 9.50 x 1.538= 14.611.Its pretty accurate, at least for most street cars.Not too bad for blowing the motor at half track. Just curious...what happened?
Don't ask where I got this figure, I don't remember, but a good formula for a 1/4 mile conversion from 1/8th is to multiply the 1/8th ET by 1.538. 9.50 x 1.538 = 14.611.
The 1/8-mile 'factor', used by NHRA/IHRA is .64 of the 1/4-mile
(1/4-mile x .64 = 1/8-mile..... 1/8-mile divided-by .64 = 1/4-mile)
but with a 1.8x short-time, I believed the car was hurting before it reached the 1/8-mile mark, and that the 9.5x wasn't a true representation of it's potential:
I will ask Red 69, a regular competitor at Orlando Speed World Dragway, what his incremental times are, as I think his '79 runs 14.30s @ 95-ish MPH..... maybe they will help.