When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I knew things were going to smooth. I was torquing the heads down and snaped an ARP head bolt. From what I found on Summits site they don't just sell individual ones. What can I do for a replacement?
Not sure how or why it snapped. I was using a "click" torque wrench and made it to 65ftlbs before it snapped. I installed the other head with a spring pointer torque wrench just in case the "click" style was off and that was the cause. The spring pointer style went fine all the way to the required 75ftlbs.
Jeebus you broke an ARP? You must be strong like me. I split TWO impact sockets once trying to get a crank bolt out of an '87 Toyota truck. Using a standard length 1/2" drive ratchet and a Craftsman and a Great Neck impact socket...I managed to split them both. I busted the fuse box when the sockets split and my elbows went crashing backwards. Ouch.
Yep, call ARP, they probably won't even hesitate to send you a new one. Did you get the broken one out?
Jeebus you broke an ARP? You must be strong like me. I split TWO impact sockets once trying to get a crank bolt out of an '87 Toyota truck. Using a standard length 1/2" drive ratchet and a Craftsman and a Great Neck impact socket...I managed to split them both. I busted the fuse box when the sockets split and my elbows went crashing backwards. Ouch.
Yep, call ARP, they probably won't even hesitate to send you a new one. Did you get the broken one out?
Yeah those made in china sockets are pretty weak,it takes no effort at all to break one.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
I feel your pain. Agree that ARP will take probably care of you. Sounds like it may be time to check that torque wrench. A good ole beam type torque wrench isn't sexy, but she'll do you right for a lifetime.
I feel your pain. Agree that ARP will take probably care of you. Sounds like it may be time to check that torque wrench. A good ole beam type torque wrench isn't sexy, but she'll do you right for a lifetime.
Luckily I have an old style beam wrench. I pulled the head and removed the bolt and then reinstalled it. This time I used the beam style with no problems.
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Jeebus you broke an ARP? You must be strong like me. I split TWO impact sockets once trying to get a crank bolt out of an '87 Toyota truck. Using a standard length 1/2" drive ratchet and a Craftsman and a Great Neck impact socket...I managed to split them both. I busted the fuse box when the sockets split and my elbows went crashing backwards. Ouch.
Yep, call ARP, they probably won't even hesitate to send you a new one. Did you get the broken one out?
Yeah I am pretty much a "baby huie" when it come to tightening things. My dad used to always fuss at me for it. Course this time I was relying on the wrench to click but I think that wrench must be out of adjustment.
Originally Posted by dannyman
Ouch! Did you get it out?
Yeah it came out easy. I sprayed the threaded holes in the block with liquid wrench before installing the bolts. The bolt left a small peice just above the deck when it broke so I was able to get some needle nose pliers on it and roll it out. Whew!!! I just knew I was going to have to drill it out....
Originally Posted by noonie
Call ARP directly. They will replace t for you.
Thanks I am goingt o call them this morning. I figure since they are in CA and I am in SC there wont be any point in calling till around 10-11 est.
Thanks guys! If this is all that happens during this build I will count myself lucky!!
Click wrenches need to be used "correctly". I've seen a lot of assembly line folks use them and they just give it a big yank. It will click as long as the 'yank' is above the required torque. You have to ease into the correct torque with a click wrench and stop just as soon as you hear/feel the click. That's why I don't like them.
Click wrenches need to be used "correctly". I've seen a lot of assembly line folks use them and they just give it a big yank. It will click as long as the 'yank' is above the required torque. You have to ease into the correct torque with a click wrench and stop just as soon as you hear/feel the click. That's why I don't like them.
Agree. Problem was it was clicking on 15 of the 16 bolts but the 16th wouldn't so I backed the wrench down to 60 to sneak up on it and got the click. Went to 62 and got a click. Went to 65 and "snap"... ARP should be open now. Gonna call them.
Yeah it came out easy. I sprayed the threaded holes in the block with liquid wrench before installing the bolts. The bolt left a small peice just above the deck when it broke so I was able to get some needle nose pliers on it and roll it out. Whew!!! I just knew I was going to have to drill it out....
Glad it came out easy for you, are you only using liquid wrench on the block? You should be lubing the the threads with oil or ARP's thread lube or sealer if the holes are open to the water jacket.
Glad it came out easy for you, are you only using liquid wrench on the block? You should be lubing the the threads with oil or ARP's thread lube or sealer if the holes are open to the water jacket.
Jim
Yep I used non hardening thread sealant on them. Called ARP and they said they would send me one but their computers were down and would have to call me back. That was about 2 hours ago. The tech said that someone from QC would be calling me ASAP. So what is a reasonable amount of time to give them???
You mentioned that the one bolt didn't "feel" the same as the others. Could it be that that bolt [the one that broke] actually bottomed-out in the threads before the bolt-head seated with the cylinder head? If it did, that could be the reason for the breakage. When you take the head off, check to see if you have chips, etc. at the bottom of that threaded hole. You may also want to put one of the bolts in (without the cylinder head) to max depth by hand, then measure how much bolt shank you have showing. Compare that to the thickness of the cylinder head at that bolt hole position. If the two dimensions are close to the same, you need to chase the threads a little deeper (if you can) or go to a slightly shorter bolt. If the bolt head isn't seated when you torque the bolt up, the bolt tension will not be only in the axial direction and you might break the bolt head off.
Thanks guys! ARP QC guy was very helpfull in sending me a replacement bolt. He asked how the others felt when they went in and I said fine no problems. He said that it could have been just a weakened bolt but really could not say for sure. I really did not expect them to be able to. They sent me a replacement today. I have a real hard time just chunking the whole set because of one broken one. Once I removed the head and pulled the broken bolt out I reinstalled the head and used my bar style torque wrench and successfully installed the same head on the same side with no problems. Hopefully the bolt will be here by early next week.
Glad you got the broken bolt out! You must be chomping at the bit to get this engine running smooth!
OK! You've had more than your fair share of difficulties; wishing you clear sailing from here on in!
Thanks! I really hope I have paid my dues now and I will actually get to enjoy the car instead of just pulling it apart. I will say that this go around I have learned a ton about cam geometry and using diagnostic tools. I wish I could have learned all this a different way but at least now I know. Once the bolt gets here the motor will be back together and ready to go in in a matter of hours. Before it goes in I am going to install the TKO600. Hopefully that will go smooth
If any did yield you may lose the clamp up ability of that bolt under stress, so if you notice later any become loose then replace all of them. Hopefully you'll be OK, just keep an eye out.