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My heat riser works free and easy but never settles in the down/open position when hot. I don't have a welding machine. How can I jam/hold it down? Some form of metal shim against the exhaust manifold?
Paul
you can use some type of metal wire, such as the previously mentioned coathanger, to wire it open all the time. You store your cars in the winter anyway so don't really need it.
Wire it against anything handy you can to wire it open, perhaps wrap the other end around one of the A.I.R tubes or anything else.
You might find it easier to just remove it ad replace it with a spacer unit or remove it, pull out the valve itself so it's always open, and reinstall it.
i had wired it open by using coat hanger also. while in open position just wire to the 2 of the 3 studs on exhaust manifold, where exhaust pipe connects. this worked for me 6 yrs til i changed exhaust system
When i put new exhaust on. i dremmel cut the butterfly flaps off on the inside. thus keeping the factory look from outside.
i had wired it open by using coat hanger also. while in open position just wire to the 2 of the 3 studs on exhaust manifold, where exhaust pipe connects. this worked for me 6 yrs til i changed exhaust system
When i put new exhaust on. i dremmel cut the butterfly flaps off on the inside. thus keeping the factory look from outside.
I dremmeled mine as well but I went as far as removing all of the butterfly....the end result was the rod wanting to walk out. I rigged itwith a coat hanger and ordered an eliminator spacer from a vendor.
You can use the spacer that was originaly used on fuel injected Corvettes. It is the same size as the heat riser valve but has no butterfly or functional parts. A clean way to get rid of the valve and does no damage to the original parts. The coat hangar wire method is effective but not as "clean" - Bubba
The later Corvettes used a spring loaded riser valve that will default into the fully open mode if the hose is removed or plugged. I have the hose plugged on my '80.