Yes, most rotors are very cheap today so very few companies turn them.

 

I also mentioned this and did not read where this was done. If the rotor spin is not true the squeal will be heard. Again this squeal is from a high freq vib that is common on our design of break calipers with the four pistons. The vib/squeal sound is comming from the back of the pads were they contact the piston.

Check the run out...

The common fix for other breaks that squeal does not always work on our design. It all has to be correct at the same time; rotor surface, pads and runout. If you strat with new pads and rotors and do not perform the runout or check for true then all of your new parts will start to glaze. Then you come back to the frustraiting full circle.

 

Yeah, I think I am just gonna get the darned things turned and see if that helps.. The dealer said they can do it on the car.

 

If you are not comfortable working on the brakes or you don't have some of the necessary tools, the GM Dealer is a good option. The tech will make sure the rotors can be turned and remain within safe tolerances. If they have been turned once before, or are badly warped or grooved, don't be suprised if they recommend and /or insist on replacing the rotors. You can only shave so much metal off them. Hope everything turns out ok and that solves the problem.

 

kinda off topic, but a quick question:

my car pulls to the right when i drive it, in the streets its minimal, but on the freeway it seems like it pulls more. ive gotten it alighned and the problem was still exactly the same, could it be on of my bearings on the left side of the car?

 

Thanks for that tip by the way - I used it last weekned and it worked awesome. No way you can damage the new race if you use this method and in matter of 5min. you turned a piece of junk into a custom tool. I like it.

 

Well here is the official update.
I took the Vette to my mechanic and he says he fixed the brakes. He re-tapped one of the calipers that was stripped and said the squeaking all this time is from a glazed or glazing on the rotors. He said they are not warped and just needed to be roughed up a bit.

Someone here suggested that and that is the one thing I did not do.

As for the front end clunk, that is because the shims on the driver side fell out of the A arm and when I come to a stop it compresses and bangs around.

As for the rear end clunk, he replaced the rear differential fluid and put in a stablizer. He also replaced the differential cushions since I had the new parts, though he said the ones on there looked fine.

As for the grinding on acceleration he said there is indeed a problem with the motor mounts and that the fan is hitting the shroud, again as someone indicated. No solution for that one, outside of not accelerating hard.

Finally the leaky transmission problem was the result of loose pan bolts. He tightened them up, and no more leak.

I get her tomorrow and will report back on how everything runs... Planing on going to a Brewer game in Milwaukee tomorrow and am thinking that would be the perfect test drive!

 

Sounds like you got off pretty easy this time.

 

Here is what he did:

Roughed up the rotors. Cut grooves in the pads, and beveled the pads. Added silicone grease, the type that dries to the inner surface/back of pads and calipers.

So far, so good!!!

Also on the rear end clunk:

QTY 3 90w gear oil
QTY 1 differential additive

I had the cushions replaced too, but I don't think they were to blame. Went with urethane, so they should last longer than I will have the gear.

Anyway, clunk is gone as far as I can tell.

My total bill for the gear oil, stablizer, labor to fix the brake issues/noise, change out the differential bushings and fill/clean the differential out was $77.54 with tax.

I thought I was going to be into the hundreds of dollars..

He also threw some shims in the a-arms as the ones the dealer installed during the alignment fell out.

 

You got a good deal.

 

Well, the clunks are gone, but the brake squeak, still there.

I'm gonna try one more thing. If it does not work, another C3 will be up for sale...

This is ridiculous!

 

How did the mechanic ruff up your rotors? He may have introduced additionl problems if not done correctly.

You need to have pads and rotors that are not glazed and the run-out must be correct. If anything is not correct from start then even a "NEW" set of pads a rotors will become glazed and contribute to the squel.

Every thing has to be correct at the start or you will be chasing that squel for ever.

Good luck as I know this is a frustration just don't give up you will get it corrected.

 

Not a very good reason to sell your car.

 

What one more thing? I just changed rotors and pads on front and rear brakes, and I also replaced the calipers on the RF and LR. Like you, before I put the new pads and rotors, my brakes squeaked when I came to a stop. I have no brake squeal anymore. I did check the runout on the fronts and I did not have any!!! Go figure. I did not check the rears yet. But I no longer have a soft pedal either. I am still going to convert to C5 brakes on both the front and the rear though.

Don't give up. It will work out for you.

 

I don't have a squeal... I have a constant squeak.. Just on the right front.. I've replaced everything but the rotor and caliper. Pads, silicone goop, bearings, races, grease, roughed up the disk, cut notches in the pads, 45 degree bevel to pads, silcone on the back of the pads, slicone on the retaining pin, changed from metallic to organic pads.

All that his left aside from changing the rotors is to have them turned.

 

I hope it works out for you.

 

You and me both... I know it seems like I am being extreme, but the noise is driving me insane. I've owned just about every Camaro there is to own over the years from the 70's that is, and have NEVER experienced issues like this. Was there something special about 70's era Vette brakes that was so different?

 

No, they have been around since 1965. In the model year of 1979, they went to stainless steel sleeved calipers. The design to me is a pita but it is reliable.

 

I had a 79 Camaro, and never had this problem... So they were virtually the same brakes?

 

Corvette brakes are Corvette brakes. They're their own odd animal.