I am going to re-pack the wheel bearings on my 79. I see there are wheel bearing re-build kits for sale at all the popular Vette places. Is it really necessary to change them out entirely?

I figured I would just repack them with fresh grease. Also, should I get new cotter pins at the very list? If so anyone know if there is a standard size I should get?

Thanks.

 

Pull em, inspect em, if any flat spots, rust or pitted races or bearings, replace em. All parts readily available at advance, autozone, pep boys, etc.

 

Cool, thanks!

 

The purists would insist that if you replace the bearing you also replace the races....not hard but takes some special tools and a little skill.

Also get yourself one of those nifty bearing greasers that forces the grease from the center outward...works beautifully. And be sure to get the high temp grease.

best ol luck, Steve

 

I'm not a purist by any stretch of imagination, but if you spend the bucks for new wheel bearings, why not spend a little more and get new races too? Any 2 pieces of metal that run together will develop their own "special" wear pattern over time. Change that and you're asking for failure.

Always install NEW cotter pins whenever you remove one. The "legs" of the pin work harden when they are bent and are more likely to break off if they are used a second time. A box of 1-1/8 cotter pins is less than $5. How much does it cost when the wheel/tire passes you on the highway?

 

Don't most kits include the races?

 

Timken bearings are sold separate or in "kit" form from the chain stores. The chain store brg's are usually imported even the name brand.
All you need to replace the races is a good punch and hammer. One of those aluminum race kits is also a good idea but plenty have be installed with a punch and concentrated skill.

 

I have never seen a wheel bearing that didn't come with inner and outer races in the same box. What's the point if you don't replace the races too? I'm assuming the "kit" includes both inner and outer bearings with dust covers for both sides, no? Yeah, a brass drift or a suitable punch are all you need to get the outer races out and back in. Sometimes hard to tell if the races are completely seated, but, if you work from side to side all the way around the race, it should set right down.

 

Not meaning to step on toes, but I would never buy important "hard parts" like wheel bearings at a local parts store unless they carried good-quality name brands. I trust NAPA to stock good quality parts and I even ask them if they have different "grades" of that part. [Even some of the name brand companies are going to 'good' quality and 'best' quality parts in order to compete with the gyppo outfits.] For load-bearing parts, I'll pay the extra amount just to be sure I've got the good stuff.

 

I ended up getting them from Bumper to Bumper in town. They've never done me wrong, and the parts have always been quality. Bought the inner, outer and races, as well as some good high temp wheel bearing grease..

Now I have to figure out if I am gonna do my belt replacement first, or the bearings..

 

I agree on the bearings to be used and to clearify, the kits are sold at the chains but I buy from industrial suppliers. I know my Timkens are still usa made and can be purchase separately. They cost me more then from a chain but I'd rather go that route.

Good luck, at least with the fronts you can replace them easy. If you were doing the rears I would stay with the USA bearings. Don't forget the seal and set the endplay in the bearings. Check the rotor runout as well.There is a felt washer on the spindle sometimes they are ripped or soaked.

 

Just to clarify I did not buy a kit. I bought each component individually.
Will do. Thanks.

 

Ok, I replaced the wheel bearings.. What a bitch getting the old races out. Anyway, after doing so, the left front wheel still squeaks when in motion. It stops when I apply pressure to the brakes, so it has to be the brakes..

Any thoughts on how to correct this? It's really annoying? Maybe a new caliper? Thanks!

 

Early disc brakes were particularly annoying because of the "brake pad squeal" that was generated during 'light' brake apply. If you would apply more pedal pressure, the squeal stopped. Most of the time it is caused by the metal backing of the pad generating a high pitched vibration. The usual solution is to apply a smear of "anti-squeek" goo to the back of the pad and let it dry thoroughly before installing the pad. This just created a way to 'dampen' the vibration so the apply pistons and pad backing didn't resonate when they came together. You can get the goo at any car parts place (they usually have it in little tubes at the check-out counters). Just pull your pads and put some on the back side of the pad (where it would contact the pistons). Let dry and reinstall in same pad positions. If you have a couple sets of 'piston retractor clips', it will make the job go smoother and faster.

 

Another thought....

If your brake pads have the little "wear scrapers" on them, you may be getting the 'signal' that your pad is getting worn down on that caliper. That will cause a squeal whenever you are driving and do NOT apply the brake. When the brake is applied, the sound will go away.

 

GTR, where do you get your bearings from? i need to replace my bearings and races.

ive got one set of bearings pulled apart right now. busted the race for the larger bearing when i was taking them out, and the smaller bearing was partially dry and has some nice brown burn marks on it.

 

I went to Bumper to Bumper. They were in stock, and the same as buying them from the popular Vette catalog outlets. Actually less given there is no shipping.

I bought the inner and outer bearings WITH races, and the seals. It was like $65 or so total for both fronts.

Thanks for the advice. FYI, there is no squeal when I apply pressure. The noise occurs driving at any speed without applying pressure to the brakes.

The pads are relatively new, so they are not worn. So that is not the problem. I'll try that goo you mentioned first.

My rear passenger side however SCREAMS when coming to a stop. I guess I could try that goo on that one too?

 

Industrial suppliers like Applied Industrial Technologies(the old Bearings Inc.), or Motion Industries stock and sell Timken's individually. Helps to have the p/n's.
As far as bearings and races, they're cheap compared to sitting on the side of the road. However, most need to understand the importance of 1) Proper handling 2) Proper installation 3) Proper lubrication.
Keep them in the box until you are ready to install them. NEVER(I I've seen this done more times than I care to discuss), I mean NEVER take the old bearing and put it into the new race "checking for proper fitment", or vice versa. Use the proper tools for installation. A press is handy, but if you must use a drift or punch, take your time and be careful! If you scratch the raceway, go get another one! Don't chance it. The raceway is the roadway of the roller, potholes start as small nicks in the pavement, bearings are no different. I dropped one of my bearings from 3 feet during installation. Bent the cage slightly. My buddy(who happens to be an airplane mechanic) told me to go ahead and install it. Nope! Off I went to the shop for another(about $5). Finally, lubrication. Too much is not good. Try running in waste deep water, not easy. Bearings are the same. Too much grease and they will heat up trying to push the grease aside. With the right amount of grease, it will properly circulate within the hub and cool and lubricate as designed. Some say: well I just keep pumping until it comes out of the seal....uh oh! That's one unhappy seal, plus too much grease Good Luck!

 

excellant advice and knowledge, you must be in the bearing business.
I do get away with your one rule on fitting the races/brgs. When doing diff's I install the new races and have new cones I've slip fit for setup so I don't have to press the new brg on the pinion. They are clean and oiled and I replace them every 3-4 diffs as the cage will start to distort. Other then that agree 100%. If I need to remove a rear spindle for any reason I always replace the bearings,even if I just set them up. It doesn't happen much as I'm careful on setup.

I buy my bearings from BDI and other suppliers, they cost me more then going to a chain store but they are excellant quality(USA) and the extra $ is worth it to me and the jobs I do. Also good point on the grease,same issue with steering boxes- too much and it will pop a seal. I've seen many "rebuilt" boxes over full of grease.


PS if you are in the business maybe you can answer a question I have on wc87504 brg's - I'm reparing a Bridgeport mill and the table uses these but should be a matched set with DB mounting. Question is can these come single as well?

 

Thanks Gary.
22 years and counting. I never thought I'd be more than just a reader here on the forum once I got my '69. But as I've learned, everybody helps one another here. When it comes to bearings, I can be helpful.