This IS the easy ticket!!!

 

very nice

 

Sweet! Can you show the master cylinder mounting and any reinforcing to the firewall that you may have done?

Need to figure this out for the ol' T5 swap.

 

Just finished modifying and installing this master cylinder in my 78 on the way to converting from TH350 to a T5. Master cylinder mods are:

* Cut 2 inches out of the center of the shaft.

* Cut 3/8" course (16 threads per inch) threads on the remaining shaft lengths. (Die was $3.99 at True Value.) Not easy to get the die started, but generously chamfer filing the cut rod ends helps.

* Buy a 2 inch matching threaded sleeve ($1.05 at True Value) and two regular nuts for jam nuts.

* Make a 5/16" bushing for the clevis by drilling and filing the threads out of a 1/2" nut and filing down the outside points a bit. Bronze bushing material could be used as well. Make sure it spins freely on the clutch pedal pin. A press fit in the clevis is not necessary, but check fit in the clevis as you file to make a close fit.

Installation:

* My 78 has an existing 1-1/4" hole in the firewall sheet metal for a clutch rod. It's perfect for this master cylinder. Drill and match file this hole on through the firewall's fiberglass layer, but do not enlarge the hole diameter. There are 3 small holes in the sheet metal around the perimeter of the large hole. I drilled out the upper left and lower right holes (viewed from the interior) to 9/16".

* Correct final position for the master cylinder is with the white plastic reservoir connector barb at top dead center. Correct horizontal, vertical, and angular positions are maintained by the 1-1/4" hole. I took advantage of the ample material in the master cylinder's mounting ears and enlarged the holes as necessary to achieve the top dead center positioning. I used 9/16" x 1-1/2" hex head bolts with large flat washers on the engine side and lock washers on the interior side.

* For connecting to clutch pedal, use two 5/16" flat washers on the clutch pin between pedal shaft and clevis, and one thin flat washer between clevis and retainer clip. Adjust shaft length during install so the pedal shaft contacts the rubber bumper just prior to the master cylinder shaft reaching its full extension. Maintain equal exposed thread lengths on the shaft halves as you adjust. Tighten jam nuts against the threaded sleeve. Lubricate clutch pedal pin, clevis bushing, & washers prior to final assembly. I used wheel bearing grease.

* I did no firewall reinforcement. Firewall seems very rigid, so I don't think it's necessary.

The Mustang (choke) World Class T5 is being rebuilt now by a small company near Boise, ID. I'll take the Vette there next month for the install. We'll use a hydraulic throwout bearing rather than a slave cylinder.

Jerry
78IndyPace

Pix:

Modified Master Cylinder


Interior View During Test Fit


Master Cylinder From Above


View From Floor After Installation

 

So as long as the reservoir is at top dead center I will be fine? I thought it had to be level.

 

The master has to be angled down as shown or you'll never get the air out of it.

 

I have it mounted like in the picture, so lets hope it all goes well. Just need to get the reservoir tomorrow and will be ready to bleed it and hope it works.

 

True. And it's equally important that the push rod axis is very closely aligned with the center axis of the cylinder so friction is minimized and no binding is possible as the piston moves within the cylinder. This positioning does that.

Also, the plastic reservoir connector barb can be rotated within its socket to point anywhere you want.

Jerry
78IndyPace

 

When I push the pedal in it is a smooth action. There is no binding. I'm off to get the reservoir.

 

It works. I couldn't get it to start taking fluid so I used a model airplane fuel pump to pump the fluid into the slave bleeder and up the system. Worked flawlessly pushed all of the air out and I then bleed it a couple times by opening the valve pushing the pedal and closing the valve. Can shift through all of the gears and into reverse without any effort. It has been raining all day so I can't take it out.

 

Old cars are not supposed to have hydraulic clutchs
no automatics, A/C, P/S. P/B.

 

If my camera would work I would give you a picture of why i did the swap. My rod from the pedal to the zbar is all bent in different directions. BTW, where did you guys mount your reservoirs?

 

Yeah? How do you like your F70-15 bias ply tires?

 

I loved the F7015, my 73 first yr of the radial firestone 500 got me in real trouble one night sliding down the highway sideways then backwards then pointing in the right direction, was not long after damn firestone recalled the tires. I'm going to turn justin into the NCRS.
I would have traded every radial tire back then for a set of polyglass.

 

That's nice. So what? Don't buy a car with any of those things.

 

First you post a strange and non-helpful comment that "old cars aren't supposed to have hydraulic clutches" which doesn't look like anything but an attack on the OP for wanting to upgrade to a more modern system, then you threaten me when I say something about your unhelpful comment. Very nice.

 

I was talking to Justin not you or Zwede, I could care less what Justin does to his car he is going to do what he wants anyway its his car.
For some reason you and Zwede took it personal against yourself, I was not even talking to you or Zwede. But If you have some pent up problem with me meet me somewhere we will settle it don't punk me over a computer.

 

Ya, I bent the upper rod so that is why I swapped. It was working good until one of my gussets broke on my bracket. I just need to put another gusset on it and weld it back together and it will be fine.

 

I saw a smart-a$$ comment and responded in kind. Not sure how you evolved that into a need for a fist fight.

Regardless; this is tech. Justin had a question, some of us provided answers. If you want to discuss what a muscle car is and is not, there's C3 general or off topic.

 

I was just joking with Justin old cars are not supposed to have all these nice modern things. Next thing I know I get a smart *** question about F70 -15 tires I'm old enough to have run them I met you your not old enough to know the difference. You don't run this forum I have done more to try to help justin then you or batman ever tried.