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Justin,
The links open to a prompt for zip code. Can you post pics of what you found? How much do those parts cost? Never mind. The links worked.
I am planning to put in a Keisler hydraulic clutch kit when I put in a Keisler 5-speed, but I'm open to options if you find something that works well and saves some $$.
BTW, I live on the other side of the cities from you. Are you interested in showing your car at Car Craft Summer Nationals? I am hoping to get some more C3s there. Our son's car club (All In My Garage) gets the grass area next to the dyno trailer.
That is very nice. I would like to do something like that. Where did you get the heim joint, and how did you get it on just thread the shaft that is under the boot?
How did you get the bleeder on top? did you switch the placement of it? Mine is in the other hole that you have the plug in.
Does the throw out beaing ride on the pressure plate with that setup? The way it seems, is that the "relaxed" position of the slave cylinder is to have the rod all the way out.
The heim joint came with the speed direct clutch linkage kit. I salvaged various parts when I switched to hydraulics. I welded the end of the heim joint to the slave rod.
Dunno about the bleeder. That's the way it came?
Yes, with a hydralic clutch the TO bearing does lightly touch the pressure plate. But the force is so slight it doesn't hurt the TO bearing. The slave has an internal spring that pushed the rod out. By doing it that way the slave auto-adjusts as the disc wears.
Looks like a nice setup and I know alot of guys are doing similar setups with no issues. I would be concerned that the throw out is in constant contact with the fingers though. The mechanical bearing is not designed to be turning all the time. Even though you said it was "light contact" that is still enough to cause it to turn constantly which will the bearing out alot quicker than normal.
Is there no way to adjust it so that the bearing is not in contact with the fingers all the time? Is it because the throw of the slave pushrod is not long enough? Just curious?
My understanding is that all hydraulic clutch systems lightly press the TO bearing onto the pressure plate. If they didn't, they wouldn't be self adjusting and would have to add some kind of adjusting mechanism.
Yes, theoretically it shortens the bearings life. My guess is that even with the somewhat shortened life due to the light contact, the disc will wear out first.
I have the bell housing you speak of as well as the clutch fork & pivot stud from an 85 1 ton chevy truck for sale.
I was going to go this route before I bought my 509 with scatterproof bellhousing. I have the part #'s somewhere of the master & slave cylinder you need, then all you need is a rubber hose to the civic resoviour you speak of and 18" of coiled brake line to connect the master to the slave.
Let me know if you're interested.
Need to ditch the stock linkages. I was reading around and it appears people use the stuff from a 85 gmc truck.
If I bought this and this
Get a fluid tank out of a civic what else do I need to buy? How does the slave cylinder mount up?
I beleive those are the correct master & slave cylinders.
The bellhousing actually has a bracket cast into it to mount it to.
I don't have pics on my work computer, I do have them at home. Let me know if you would like pics.