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I was pulling my radiator and upon loosening the drain plug it just ripped off with the threaded peice. Can this be brazed back on or should I buy a new radiator? Ecklers, which is close by ,has them on stock for $289 . Is this the going price?/ Car is a daily driver so it needs repair asap.
I was pulling my radiator and upon loosening the drain plug it just ripped off with the threaded peice. Can this be brazed back on or should I buy a new radiator? Ecklers, which is close by ,has them on stock for $289 . Is this the going price?/ Car is a daily driver so it needs repair asap.
If the radiator is copper/brass, then yes, the piece can be SOLDERED back on - that's how it was originally attached. If it is aluminum, it can also be fixed, but a different process. See if there is a radiator shop nearby and give them a call.
As far as a new one, Dewitt is #1 - it's all downhill from there!
I took it in for repair and yes the plug can be fixed BUT the radiator is in such bad shape all around that its not worth fixing per shop. This is the shop that repaired this radiator twice in the past 6 years so I trust thier opinion. I ended up with a new one for $225 out the door. Its in and leak free.
Thanks for the replies.
If the radiator is copper/brass, then yes, the piece can be SOLDERED back on - that's how it was originally attached. If it is aluminum, it can also be fixed, but a different process. See if there is a radiator shop nearby and give them a call.
As far as a new one, Dewitt is #1 - it's all downhill from there!
I have a 71 SB and developed a leak by the drain plug when I attempted to drain the antifreeze. I tried to seal it myself with various epoxys, weldstuff,etc. Ended up pulling the radiator--found the radiator support was rusted through from leaks in the radiator. Mine is a copper radiator and I want everything original--so I took it in to be fixed. The radiator guy said it was 50% plugged--so I had it recored too--cost $360. The PITA was putting the everything back in--things were alittle out of square.
found the radiator support was rusted through from leaks in the radiator.
The radiator support rusts through because it traps moisture from wet environments or driving in the rain. The radiator hangs below the support, it's impossible for it to cause the support to rot.
The radiator support rusts through because it traps moisture from wet environments or driving in the rain. The radiator hangs below the support, it's impossible for it to cause the support to rot.
The amount of rot was amazing--on both sides the lower 1/3 was almost completely rotted away--but the radiator looked great. It appeared the radiator support is hollow and water got inside and it rusted from the inside out--much of the outside looked good until I used an awl and then it just crumbled apart. If that was from rain there must be a hole on top where it gets in and then fills up the hollow part and rusts---otherwise would take driving in the rain everyday for years.
The amount of rot was amazing--on both sides the lower 1/3 was almost completely rotted away--but the radiator looked great. It appeared the radiator support is hollow and water got inside and it rusted from the inside out--much of the outside looked good until I used an awl and then it just crumbled apart. If that was from rain there must be a hole on top where it gets in and then fills up the hollow part and rusts---otherwise would take driving in the rain everyday for years.
The core support is made of two pieces of low-grade stamped steel that's spot-welded together. The seam doesn't fit very well and has gaps, and the two pieces have numerous holes for the radiator and condensor mounts but no drain holes at the bottom. It's just a lousy design. My 77 has nothing but non-problematic surface rust in the frame and birdcage, it's been garaged for years, and the core support still looked like swiss cheese.
I coated the new radiator support with 2 coats of POR-15 but that won't help if water gets inside. I wonder if it would be worth drilling some holes in the bottom to let the water drain out if it does get inside?
The car is garaged abd only driven from May to November and not in the rain unless caught in it.
I drilled 3 drain holes in the support, then touched them up with paint,
because you know water will find it way back into that support evently.
69VETT
Unless you're worried about a tech inspector going over your core support with a magnifying glass, I'd recommend drilling drain holes in two places - the lower portion of the stamping that forms the top surface when installed (it can hold water) and into the hollow section at the lowest point.