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Oil Pump Install Question

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Old May 12, 2008 | 04:06 PM
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Default Oil Pump Install Question

I was just wondering if I should replace the oil pump when I do the timing chain and balancer, since everything is off of the engine.

When installing a new oil pump do you need to mess with the distributor to engage the pump with the dist gear? I don't really want to mess with the dist. I have also read all of the threads about replacing the pump but have not seen anything describing how to engage the shaft with the dist.

Thanks
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Old May 12, 2008 | 04:56 PM
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is the engine out of the car or in and how many miles on engine
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Old May 12, 2008 | 08:16 PM
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If you're tearing it down that far to replace the timing chain, it's cheap insurance to replace the oil pump. It's not that hard, one bolt. You don't have to do anything to the distributor. As you're putting the oil pump back in place, spin it's driveshaft with your fingers until it locks to the distributor shaft, and bolt the pump in place. You'll see how it all works as you remove the old pump.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 09:08 PM
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Unless it is all worn out I would not replace it. The oil pump castings sold today are not as strong as the old one on your car now. If the current oil pump does not give you any reason to replace it, I say "why tempt fate?". You know yours is a good one and you might not get a good replacement. If it works - don't fix it.

Just my opinion.

-Mark.
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Old May 13, 2008 | 03:40 PM
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Yes, the motor is still in the car. I think it only has about 70K on the motor but you can't ever be sure right. It did not run for quite a few years but who knows.

The water pump was original as well as all of the gaskets. I had the water pump rebuilt and just figured I would redo the timing chain while everthing was off the front of the engine.

I figured I would also replace the pan gasket and do the oil pump. I had not heard of new oil pumps being crap, what does everone else think.
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Old May 13, 2008 | 05:32 PM
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If you bolt on a new pump you will also need to make sure the new oil pump pickup screen is not too close to the bottom of the pan. I like to leave .375" between the bottom of the pan and the pickup screen. The pickup screen is a press fit into the pump housing. You can pick up one cheap at the parts store or you can reuse yours if u clean it. If you dont forget just take a tape measure and measure between the block surface where the oil pan gasket goes and the pickup screen before you remove the pump from the block. Install the new pickup tube at the same location.

I just installed a new timing gear drive on my car this weekend. Look into getting a one piece oil pan gasket. I paid 25 bucks for mine. I used it on my install and was inpressed with the fit and function. No leaks!

Later
Aaron

Last edited by raceman17; May 13, 2008 at 05:35 PM.
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Old May 13, 2008 | 09:30 PM
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I haven't heard anything negative about modern pumps. I would go ahead and replace it. Stay away from the high volume pumps however. LB66383 is right - there's nothing to it. Just make sure to measure the position of the pickup as raceman17 said and put it back in the same position. If you forget to do that, you'll be doing the silly putty method which is kind of a pain. I also tach welded the pickup tube to the oil pump housing to make sure it doesn't pop out or move.


Last edited by sperkins; May 13, 2008 at 09:32 PM.
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Old May 13, 2008 | 09:54 PM
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Sperkins, if you dont have access to a tac weld machine, is there an alternative to doing this.

kdf
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Old May 13, 2008 | 09:58 PM
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Disassemble your present pump and look it over carefully. Mark the gear set so that you can put the gears back in with the same orientation they had. Check the gears and the pockets for any scoring, surface wear (surface 'polishing' is fine), or any pitting on any surfaces. Check journals for wear and bearing rollers for damage. If all looks good, clean it all out, reassemble it and put it back in. Install a new seal on the filter pickup tube. It should be fine. Don't throw money at a "potential problem" [another pump] when you have one you know has worked properly and shows no distress.
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Old May 13, 2008 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by kdf1986
Sperkins, if you dont have access to a tac weld machine, is there an alternative to doing this.

kdf

You could always scribe a line on both the housing and the pickup tube so you know the correct position and take it to a muffler shop. I doubt they would charge you anything to do it as it only takes about 4 seconds. But...remember that the tube is a press fit and GM never welded them in place from the factory so it really probably is a little overkill.
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Old May 13, 2008 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by kdf1986
Sperkins, if you dont have access to a tac weld machine, is there an alternative to doing this.

kdf

What I did on a couple of my oil pumps (even though i have a tig and a mig welder) was take the cover plate off of the pump and drill and tap treads for a small set screw. Clean out the metal shavings and press the tube into the pump and them tighten the set screw into the pickup tube. Works great too with no heat.

I have not had any problems with the pickup tube falling off with this method. I do this on all the motors I build for my circle track dirt race cars.
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Old May 13, 2008 | 10:52 PM
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If you tack weld the sump on make sure you remove the spring from the pump first. If you don't you can damage the spring and you won't have much or any oil pressure. I found this out the hard why back when I was in high school.
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