Just asking well in advance of a future project.

I have a 1971 350 car with 4 speed.

Since the cross member is welded how does the trans come out?

Does the motor have to come out also?


can the shifter be detached from below or does the console have to be removed?



The job would be done to install a new clutch



Thanks
David

 

No the engine does not have to be removed. The tailshaft of the tranny will slide over the crossmember enough to allow the bellhousing to drop out. You will have to remove the shifter to do this. If I remember right, it can be unbolted from underneath the car or from up top. It's not that bad. Just jump in there and get busy.

 

You might want to check to see if Lars has posted any papers on removing transmissions. IIRC the preferred method is to unbolt the trans from the bellhousing and turn it to clear the crossmember. Why GM decided to weld in the 4-speed crossmember is one of those mysteries that may never be solved. Me, I prefer to remove the body so 2 of us can walk in and pick up the trans. BTW, the 4-speed is really pretty light. I was expecting 100 lbs when we slid the trans off the motor and when the shaft came loose the reaction was "Oh. This doesn't weigh much at all." My son and I had been moving the T56 around and the Muncie had to be about 1/2 the weight.



Rick B.

 

Don't forget the pilot bushing/bearing.

 

The tranny comes out easily, but it helps to have 2 people. I do the work on a lift - it would be a bit awkward doing it on jackstands.

Unbolt the shifter from underneath and pull the shift arms off the tranny. Yank the driveshaft out but leave the yoke in the tranny to keep the tranny fluid from spilling all over.

Remove the Z-bar. Unbolt the bellhousing from the engine and unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing. With everything loose, slide the tranny back until it jams into the tranny tunnel while rotating it slightly. The bellhousing and tranny snout can then be lowered together in a "jack-knifing" fashion together, and everthing will fall out of the car. (You cannot slide the tranny back far enough to remove the tranny from the bellhousing if you leave the bellhousing attached to the engine. You also cannot get enough space the drop the tranny with the bellhousing atttached, so you have to drop it all down in pieces).

With some power tools, you can do the job pretty quickly: I changed the clutch and pressure plate in my Vette during Superbowl halftime a few years ago (and I missed the "costume failure" as a result).

 

I did not find this to be true on my 75. After removing the shifter and bracket, I pulled the transmission from the bellhousing to the rear sliding it on the crossmember back far enough to clear the throwout bearing. Then guide the front shaft down and to the right (passenger side) and the transmission comes right out. I've done it several times this way without removing the bellhousing. Possibly the 71 is slightly different than 75. It is MUCH easier with a helper or a jackstand, it's heavier than you think if you're lying on your back.

 

The man above is correct, done it that a way years ago....try doing it with an automatic....on jack stands....done THAT several times...but my car used to be a muncie car.....but wanted overdrive some 11+ years ago, and cheepest way was a 700 auto.....which I ditched a couple years ago for the lighter/more reliable 200 4r.....tons of fun...

 

I have done this many times and it has never been quite as easy as your replies have suggested. There are a lot of tricks that I learned the hard way that will really help you. I suggest you talk with me on the phone and let me give you a detailed description of how it works. If you'd like to talk with me, let me know and I'll give you contact information.

 

I have done it three times this way with my '68. One thing I do is rotate the Muncie 90 degrees, clockwise I believe, and it allows you to slide it back farther. I don't know why, but as stated above guide the input shaft down and to the right. The input shaft in mine *barely* clears the bellhousing. If you need that extra tiny bit you can lower the back of the engine until the distributor cap almost touches the firewall. Couple that with the down and to the right and it's out. I've done it by myself with just the front on jackstands. Hardest part is lifting the Muncie back up there from the side - meaning you're not able to lay under there with the 4-speed on your chest, then lift.

The first time I did this I thought there was no way I was going to be able to get the shifter out of there. Remove the transmission mount before you try to remove the shifter. There's one bolt that seems like you can't pull it out far enough because of the transmission tunnel, but just study it and move things around a bit and it will come out. I just reread the original posting. The first time I took the shifter out I removed the console plate and the inner/outer boots. My son was inside the car and I was under the car. I can't remember why, but it seemed to help.

Side note. I waited for my wife to leave, then put the bellhousing in the dishwasher and ran it through the 'heavy' cycle. Worked great. Just don't get caught!

 

Correct, I forgot to mention that, good point

 

A big thanks to all here for the help.

Glad to here that this is not a PIA.

When this job is done , I will have acces to a driver over pit.


PS , will install the throw out bearing / pilot bearing / and have flywheel surfaced

That to that poster for teh heads up.


David

 

Sometimes truth is the best comedy! I have used some of her glass bowls for automotive work, only when she is not around!

Fantastic!

 

LARS

thanks for the detailed instrunctions here. I have seen many postings on the forum praising your knowledge and willingnes to share it.

But more important , I am glad that you are back at your post and doing well.


Keep on trucking friend

David

 

I've always had to pull mine using this exact same method (both in and out). I've never been able to get the tranny to clear the bellhousing while still bolted to the motor.