need a torque value. differ crossmember to frame
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
need a torque value. differ crossmember to frame
i cant seem to find a torque value listed in my manual for the two bolts (one on each side of the frame) that hold the diff cross member to the frame
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
From: Dallas County Texas
Ooops. So I guess Q="until it seems they might break"
is a wee bit on the high side?
I just got through putting in the rebuilt Tom's Diff and that was my first experience with the beasties.
I was more worried the taper bushing thingies wouldn't be fully seated as I installed it and wouldn't sink further until later. I dressed all edges with a file and such and lubed it with some grease or tranny fluid just to make sure. (Yeah, prolly not rec'mndd either....) I always assumed on crucial internals such as rod caps, tranny parts, ring bolts, etc., the torque was crucial, but for external frame just monster hard with, as an earlier poster mentioned, your best friend, loctite (or hard gasket sealant if you're out...) IIRC, these were only like 1/2" Grade 5's or even less, so they are clearly just positioners, not designed to take enormous torque nor hold up half the car in of themselves. I seated them first with the cheapest impact from HF, Northern or Tractor Sup'y and then checked with a nice sized 1/2 drive ratchet.
Reminds me of a little saying: "blue for planning, green if you forget and red if you're paranoid and don't plan to be back!" (loctite colors....)
I just got through putting in the rebuilt Tom's Diff and that was my first experience with the beasties.
I was more worried the taper bushing thingies wouldn't be fully seated as I installed it and wouldn't sink further until later. I dressed all edges with a file and such and lubed it with some grease or tranny fluid just to make sure. (Yeah, prolly not rec'mndd either....) I always assumed on crucial internals such as rod caps, tranny parts, ring bolts, etc., the torque was crucial, but for external frame just monster hard with, as an earlier poster mentioned, your best friend, loctite (or hard gasket sealant if you're out...) IIRC, these were only like 1/2" Grade 5's or even less, so they are clearly just positioners, not designed to take enormous torque nor hold up half the car in of themselves. I seated them first with the cheapest impact from HF, Northern or Tractor Sup'y and then checked with a nice sized 1/2 drive ratchet.
Reminds me of a little saying: "blue for planning, green if you forget and red if you're paranoid and don't plan to be back!" (loctite colors....)
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
is a wee bit on the high side?
I just got through putting in the rebuilt Tom's Diff and that was my first experience with the beasties.
I was more worried the taper bushing thingies wouldn't be fully seated as I installed it and wouldn't sink further until later. I dressed all edges with a file and such and lubed it with some grease or tranny fluid just to make sure. (Yeah, prolly not rec'mndd either....) I always assumed on crucial internals such as rod caps, tranny parts, ring bolts, etc., the torque was crucial, but for external frame just monster hard with, as an earlier poster mentioned, your best friend, loctite (or hard gasket sealant if you're out...) IIRC, these were only like 1/2" Grade 5's or even less, so they are clearly just positioners, not designed to take enormous torque nor hold up half the car in of themselves. I seated them first with the cheapest impact from HF, Northern or Tractor Sup'y and then checked with a nice sized 1/2 drive ratchet.
Reminds me of a little saying: "blue for planning, green if you forget and red if you're paranoid and don't plan to be back!" (loctite colors....)
I just got through putting in the rebuilt Tom's Diff and that was my first experience with the beasties.
I was more worried the taper bushing thingies wouldn't be fully seated as I installed it and wouldn't sink further until later. I dressed all edges with a file and such and lubed it with some grease or tranny fluid just to make sure. (Yeah, prolly not rec'mndd either....) I always assumed on crucial internals such as rod caps, tranny parts, ring bolts, etc., the torque was crucial, but for external frame just monster hard with, as an earlier poster mentioned, your best friend, loctite (or hard gasket sealant if you're out...) IIRC, these were only like 1/2" Grade 5's or even less, so they are clearly just positioners, not designed to take enormous torque nor hold up half the car in of themselves. I seated them first with the cheapest impact from HF, Northern or Tractor Sup'y and then checked with a nice sized 1/2 drive ratchet.
Reminds me of a little saying: "blue for planning, green if you forget and red if you're paranoid and don't plan to be back!" (loctite colors....)
You should still use the correct torque values on all the fasteners for the chassis. Its the bolt's "stretch" that clamps and holds parts together. Loctite or not, every bolt should be torqued to spec. I pick and choose my values from the GM service manual. When I think a value is wrong, I use a chart like this...
http://www.morbark.com/service/belttorque.pdf
It is a general chart for different grades of fasteners.
Last edited by stinger12; May 26, 2008 at 04:33 PM.
