Electrical Gremlins
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 5
From: Schererville IN
Electrical Gremlins
I have a short in my 79 that kills the battery within a couple hours when the car is off. I narrowed the short down today to the courtesy lights circuit. When I pull the (courtesy light/ clock/ lighter) fuse, there is no short.
Now here is where it gets interesting...
With the fuse pulled, I was pulling the car into the garage with the driver's door open about 6 inches. All of a sudden my courtesy lights came on! With no fuse in the system!
With the car off and the fuse pulled-no courtesy lights.
With the car running and the fuse pulled-the courtesy lights come on.
In addition, when this happen...my radio went dead.
I'll start pulling fuses tomorrow to try to solve the mystery, but where should I start???? Sounds to me that maybe there is a short inside the fuse box??? Is there a way to pull the fuse box out and inspect?
Le Mans Master
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From: mount holly NC
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Your on the right track, by pulling the fuse you found the bad circut, now just trace all the wires in that circut one at a time. You may have a wire touching behind the kick panel, also trace the clock wire and the lighter. Since the radio went dead you'll have the check back there too. PG.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Schererville IN
It's run with a separate wire from one of the acc positions on the front of the fuse box with an inline fuse. Radio worked fine till I pulled the fuse for the courtesy system. I'm guessing a problem in the fuse box.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
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From: Dayton, Ohio
If you have the delayed courtesy light system there is a delay timer box that is powered by 2 other fuses-the stop light fuse and the gauges fuse.I have seen that delay box short out and do some wierd stuff.You might want to try bypassing the delay box and see if that fixes your problem.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Boca Raton Florida
If you have the delayed courtesy light system there is a delay timer box that is powered by 2 other fuses-the stop light fuse and the gauges fuse.I have seen that delay box short out and do some wierd stuff.You might want to try bypassing the delay box and see if that fixes your problem.
thats where it gets buggered most of the time. The box will short internally and cause the lights to come on with the CTSY fuse removed and also it will kill the battery
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
Yep. That's the guy!! He runs around in my garage all the time....causing me to drop screws in places where they can't be retreived....taking the exact socket size I just had in my hand 3 seconds ago and making it dissapear. That's the guy!!!!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 5
From: Schererville IN
I had a ratchet in my hand and spent 15 minutes looking for a 5/8 socket.
When I gave up and couldn't find it and went to put the ratchet away, that little critter had put the 5/8 socket I was looking for on the ratchet that was in my hand!
Did I just admit that???
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,112
From: Crossville TN
Yes, you did. And rightly so! That little 'imp' is always around when I'm working on the car (or doing anything else). I've told my wife...over and over...." It's not me!!! It's the 'gremlin'!!" She just doesn't believe me..... 
It's the 'gremlin'!!" She just doesn't believe me.....
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 112
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From: Honolulu HI
I've got one more quick problem for you guys to solve if you would. My passenger window was giving me problems the last few months. Sometimes the circuit seemed to just go dead and there was no juice going to the window, but then 5 mins later it would work. As of two days ago, I had it go out and not come back on. However when I push the window switch, the interior lights dim. I'm a moron when it comes to electrical stuff, so feel free to speak to me like a 6 yr old. I suppose it's possible that it is not electrical and just the window motor or something but I just don't know....
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 5
From: Schererville IN
I've got one more quick problem for you guys to solve if you would. My passenger window was giving me problems the last few months. Sometimes the circuit seemed to just go dead and there was no juice going to the window, but then 5 mins later it would work. As of two days ago, I had it go out and not come back on. However when I push the window switch, the interior lights dim. I'm a moron when it comes to electrical stuff, so feel free to speak to me like a 6 yr old. I suppose it's possible that it is not electrical and just the window motor or something but I just don't know....
You got Gremlins too!
Wear it like a badge of honor!
I had a similar problem last fall. Turned out to be a bad connection in the center console on the back of the switch.
The fact that your lights dim when you push the switch tells me you have power to the switch, but not enough juice to do the job. Could be a window motor going out, bad connection, partially broken wires, or even dry, dirty window gears and tracks. Time to pull your door cards out and get dirty.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
A dirty/burnt/corroded switch contact is the most likely problem. Remove the switches and use a spray contact cleaner on them. Or, if you don't mind the expense, just replace them so you won't have the 'gremlins' any more. (At least, not in the windows...)
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 112
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From: Honolulu HI
Thanks fellas. I had planned to rip the doors apart this weekend and take a look -- now I've got a decent idea of what to look for. One more question: how do I get to the switch contacts behind the console? (eg: do i take off the console or go up from under the dash, etc)
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,112
From: Crossville TN
You are talking about the rear (e-brake) console, right? That is removed by taking the screws out of the sides of the unit AND [this is the killer] removing the (1) hex-head [7/16" head, I believe] that locks in the back end of the console to the rear bulkhead plate [behind the seats]. You can get to it by removing the storage tray over the jack and reaching in with your left hand to the center of the bulkhead. A 1/4" drive ratchet and socket will get it loose. Once the screws are out, lift up on the front end a bit and slide out the ribbon seal on the e-brake handle. You can pull the connectors off the backs of the switches and then remove the whole thing.