tunnel insulation under body
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,654
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
tunnel insulation under body
I have a '69 coupe and I'm just about to put the body back on the frame. What material should I use underneath the body in the tunnel area where the original silver backed insulation used to be? I still have the clips under there and can reuse them to attach it.
I know I can buy it from one of the parts houses, but isn't there something I could buy at Lowes or home depot that would be better than the material they used there 40 years ago? I am not doing a completely original restoration - more of a resto-mod project.
Thanks, Tom
I know I can buy it from one of the parts houses, but isn't there something I could buy at Lowes or home depot that would be better than the material they used there 40 years ago? I am not doing a completely original restoration - more of a resto-mod project.
Thanks, Tom
Last edited by chevy69; Jun 12, 2008 at 01:51 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I'm shooting off the hip, but if you have any local marine and boat stores they might sell engine bay insulation for the bays int he back of the boat. It would be weather proof, and heat resistant. Maybe something to look into?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,654
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
That might be a real good idea Matt - and believe it or not, AZ is a huge boating state.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Kissimmee fl
Finalist 2021 C3 of the Year - Modified
2017 C3 of Year Finalist
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St. Jude Donor '07
The original material is a thick foil back on a thin layer of fiberglass. The foil is thick enough to hold its shape. While you are shielding the tunnel, one of those noodles for the swimming pool makes a good seal over the top of the bell housing to the body when you drop it back on.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,654
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
The original material is a thick foil back on a thin layer of fiberglass. The foil is thick enough to hold its shape. While you are shielding the tunnel, one of those noodles for the swimming pool makes a good seal over the top of the bell housing to the body when you drop it back on.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
Or, considering that this will be the last time that needs to be addressed for the next 20 years...and considering all the money you've spent to make the car as nice as it is....you could 'pop' for replacement components and do it right.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 23,367
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From: Virginia USA
I replaced mine a while back. The original was toast. I bought an aftermarket one and it fit perfectly. I wish I would have done more heat relief in the tunnel area before installing tranny. The bell housing collar (using a noodle thingy) make a big difference in heat coming through the tunnel but the trans and exh. still heat the tunnel good. I did use the heat barrier under the carpet but it still get warm.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
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From: South of London, Engerland
There's a foam noodle listed that glues to the bellhousing (e.g. http://www.corvette-paragon.com/cata...B-D0A5EE7A9A02 ) but are there other components that my '76 is missing?
If the years are all different then I apologise for hijacking the thread.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,654
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
I am not looking for the cheap route, rather the BEST route to help keep heat out of the car in this area.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,117
From: Crossville TN
Your first decision is whether to put anything there or not. If you have a lot of stopped/idle conditions during your driving, you might not want to put the foam collar at the front of the tunnel. That tends to block airflow when at idle. But if most of your driving is at 30mph+, you will get plenty of airflow from under the car to cool the tranny area...and the collar will prevent engine compartment heat from passing the tranny also. The foil heat shield is a good idea in any event, as it will limit the heat getting into the interior via the trans. tunnel. With anything you do underneath, you need to put some heat insulation (with foil to reflect radiated heat) under the carpeting. I used Reflectix as it is a decent HEAT insulator and foil backed...and it is inexpensive plus easy to install. Others will tell you to use more expensive stuff. But be aware that Dynamat and similar products are sound deadeners, and are not marketed as heat insulation.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Smokin Joe,
This might help you! We wrote a help page just on this subject and if you install these items you should not have any problems.
Combined with a good floor heat barrier, you should be able to cut the heat in the car quite a bit.
Here is the link
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=163
Willcox Inc.
This might help you! We wrote a help page just on this subject and if you install these items you should not have any problems.
Combined with a good floor heat barrier, you should be able to cut the heat in the car quite a bit.
Here is the link
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=163
Willcox Inc.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,900
Likes: 2
From: Nixa Missouri
Sorry for the hijack, But would like to know if I can remove my old insulation and install a new tunnel with the body on and with a Auto transmission.
What kind of rivets are the type for the tunnel called and is there a special tool to install. They dont look like pop rivets. How do they hold the tunnel on.
Thanks for any info.
What kind of rivets are the type for the tunnel called and is there a special tool to install. They dont look like pop rivets. How do they hold the tunnel on.
Thanks for any info.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 929
Likes: 5
From: Marietta GA
If your '70 is like my '68, you cannot replace the tunnel insulation with the tranny in and the body on the car. The insulation is held in place by clips which are riveted to the body. The clips have points which pierce the insulation and then are bent over to hold the insulation in place. I replaced the insulation on my '68 several years ago and it made a huge difference in cabin heat. Unless the clips are broken or missing, there is no need to replace them.
Also, if you pull the tranny to do the insulation, you should also consider replacing the postive battery cable as it runs through the tranny tunnel.
Also, if you pull the tranny to do the insulation, you should also consider replacing the postive battery cable as it runs through the tranny tunnel.
Last edited by BB68Vett; Jun 17, 2008 at 08:32 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,900
Likes: 2
From: Nixa Missouri
If your '70 is like my '68, you cannot replace the tunnel insulation with the tranny in and the body on the car. The insulation is held in place by clips which are riveted to the body. The clips have points which pierce the insulation and then are bent over to hold the insulation in place. I replaced the insulation on my '68 several years ago and it made a huge difference in cabin heat. Unless the clips are broken or missing, there is no need to replace them.
Also, if you pull the tranny to do the insulation, you should also consider replacing the postive battery cable as it runs through the tranny tunnel.
Also, if you pull the tranny to do the insulation, you should also consider replacing the postive battery cable as it runs through the tranny tunnel.
Thanks, Again.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 914
Likes: 14
From: Aberdeen, Scotland
Thermotec
Thermo Tec has a product I was going to use. That combined with a foam collar should work wonders. I also double dynomated my interior. Still not perfect yet. Transmission tunnel next!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,654
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
Quick update - I found a product made by DEI - it is sold through Summit, amongst other distributors. It's not cheap, about $115 for a 48" x 42" sheet. I bought 2 which means I have plenty of extra for other areas where I intent to apply it over my homemade lizard skin concoction ( http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1790043 )
Here is a link to what I used.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...10060&D=310060
It's got a really great adhesive on the back side and is embossed aluminum on the front. I cut it with really heavy duty sissors (like shears almost).
Here is a link to what I used.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...10060&D=310060
It's got a really great adhesive on the back side and is embossed aluminum on the front. I cut it with really heavy duty sissors (like shears almost).
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 12,667
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From: Shamong, NJ
To BenUK, no your 76 did not use the tunnel insulation. Chevy went to steel floors in 76 because of the heat from the converter and eliminated the insulater. The foam collar was used on all 68-79's.
To GPGG70, people have been known to sneak an insulater in without dropping the trans. If you remove the shifter (or cable with an auto) I think it can be worked into place. I know people have said that it can be done by cutting a slot to clear the shifter, too?
To GPGG70, people have been known to sneak an insulater in without dropping the trans. If you remove the shifter (or cable with an auto) I think it can be worked into place. I know people have said that it can be done by cutting a slot to clear the shifter, too?
