I definitely used the headlights since the stereo install. All wires that went to harness that plugged into old stereo are intact. I plugged the old harness into an aftermarket adaptor and then new stereo wires got hooked up to the aftermarket adaptor. The fact that it was fine for a month and then started acting up is what's throwing me.

Now here's something else. Could help, could cause more mystery. If I hook up the stereo WITHOUT the center cluster hooked up, lights work(at the least the tach,speedo, and gear shifter do) and fuse is cool.

I SINCERELY APPRECIATE EVERYBODY'S HELP.

 

The two are drawning more then 7.5 amps then. Can you test for draw? Or look at the schematic for the stereo does it say what the draw for the light is? The wires is capable of handling more then 7.5. You may want to increase the fuse size to 10 amp. The old system was built to run on 7.5 but the new stereo may need more. I think more input is need from someone with more experience then me. the question is how safe is it to increase the fuse size. Whats the melting point of the wire?

Eyeball the printed circuit board, any breaks in the copper? Look real close at the copper where the harness plugs in and strands crossing over and touching to points on the plug? Any wear on the board where copper is touching the casing?

Any of the guages go funny when the fuse blows? Do any of your guages not work? have you replaed any of the bulbs with ones that draw more?

Jim

 

1. Can you test for draw?
I’ve got a voltmeter, but not sure how I would test for draw.

2. Or look at the schematic for the stereo does it say what the draw for the light is?
Do you mean the LEDs of the stereo face? I’m not powering the illumination wire

3. Eyeball the printed circuit board, any breaks in the copper?
There does not appear to be any

4. Look real close at the copper where the harness plugs in and strands crossing over and touching to points on the plug?
These look good; I know that if you’re not careful putting plug in, it will not function correctly.

5. Any wear on the board where copper is touching the casing?
Doesn't appear to be

6. Any of the gauges go funny when the fuse blows?
I don’t recall any of them acting up. As far as I can tell, everything else works

7. Do any of your gauges not work?
Tachometer has not worked since new engine. Other gauges are OK

8. Have you replaced any of the bulbs with ones that draw more?
I have not replaced any bulbs.

But here are 2 things I’ve thought of. When putting cluster back in a month ago after stereo, I never hooked up the power/ground to that top light bulb which sits behind cluster; because I thought “you can’t see that light anyway”. And I removed the bulb that lights up the “check engine” light since it was constantly lit up since new engine. I also put a piece of…masking tape on board over the hole where bulb was so light from under dash wouldn’t shine through and faintly illuminate the “check engine”. This could maybe account for the “after a month” issue since its conductivity/insulation qualities may have changed after drying out? (Grasping at straws there)

Here’s my plan of attack for today.

1. Buy more fuses

2. Thoroughly check board for cracks, make sure board is not touching casing, remove tape and clean adhesive off, clean copper leads, and hook up cluster with the power/ground that I didn’t have before. Hook up stereo and see what’s what

3. Look for a new constant hot source. Up the 7.5 fuse to a 10? I know your not supposed to do it, but I've know people to do it for trailers and have had no issues

 

Follow the gray wire. It runs to that light you left out. The black ground connects to a bunch of other black grounds. Make sure the gray isn't grounding to the black. You should put a bulb back in there. Its more powerful then the others thats probably why you don't get any light. this bulb shines down on the ac/heater switch. Hook it up to elliminate it. I doubt its the problem but why wonder.

You say you are not powering the stereo illumination. so whats the gray out of the factory stereo harness going too? its the one you are suppose to use to illuminate the stereo. Find the gray in the factory harness and see what its plugging into in the aftermarket stereo harness. if you are not illuminating it should not be connected to anything. 7.5 amps is not enough to run anything else on that stereo.

Jim

 

You can test for draw right at the place where the 7.5amp fuse plugs in.Just pull it out and put your black test lead on one terminal and the red on the other.BUT MAKE SURE YOU ARE ON THE 10 AMP SETTING ON YOUR MULTIMETER.

 

I think I may have it. I took some 600 sandpaper and cleaned the leads on the circuit board and the plug and also glued the looser leads back down. I also hooked up the black and grey wire as jdp6000 suggested, hooked stereo up and Lights and intact fuse!
I haven't put it all back since I'm going to replace the bulb at the top but I hope this is the end of it. Still don't know if it was the black and grey wire or the cleaned up leads, but I'm better than I was yesterday.

Thanks again for everybody's help.

 

Fingers crossed!!

Jim