Gents...
I hope I'll be able to explain this for you to understand....

1980 Corvette.

Headlight pops up and down good BUT it touches the front body of the upper bumber. The whole box needs to be backed up approx 1/8 to 3/16inch....
I've searched and viewed diagrams but can't seem to find which bolts/screws that will let me push back the headlight assembly...

Is there screws to adjust the housing only ?

Can anyone post a picture and point out the bolts that will loosen the darn thing for me to be able to make the adjustment ?

Is this done better from on top or underneath ?

Phil

 

I've crawled under and investigated further...
These 3 bolts have no "play" once they are loosened.

Has anyone ever done this ?

Phil

 

Not the expert here

But loosing these would only make you take out the pivoting brace.

Need someone who has done this before to confirm.....

Reading the manuals and there's nothing about adjusting the bucket withing the frame of hood/bumper....
Will slide under and check more

Phil

 

my passenger side headlight was hitting in the back. I loosened the 3 bolts on both sides with a ratchet type box wrench and was able to move the whole assembly. I do not have it set perfect yet but it does not hit anymore.

 

I'd like to give some words of caution. Don't do any adjustments without first removing all four of the springs in the assembly. If you don't, you'll either be injured by the assembly "snapping" up or down with your hand in it, or damage the assembly, or the car's body around the assembly. You'll also not be able to shift the cover's position with the springs holding it in place.

Also, make sure all the bushings and parts/pieces are in place and in working condition. Loosen and "back off" the fully open limit bumper on the side of the assembly.

Next, to completely adjust the "box/cover" you'll need to remove the vacuum canister, it covers the three bolts that hold the actuator bracket (these bolts are to the rear of the assembly and in the center) that need to be moved back and forth to get the headlight pointed straight ahead, the AIM indicates this adjustment as making the headlight "plane" vertical. The canister's clevis will also have to be adjusted in/out once all the other adjustments are made.

The two end bearing retainers allow the cover to move up and down, and a bit side to side, and "twist". Most of the side-to-side is allowed by the sleeves are are locked in place with allen screws. So the first step is remove the springs and canister. Loosen the two end bearing housing/pivots (3 bolts on either end of the cover), loosen the center actuator bracket (3 bolts in rear center of assembly), and loosen the allen set screws in the sleeves. I'd suggest moving the actuator bracket all the way rearward, it'll get it's final adjust later. Now (with cover closed) by moving the two bearing housings, and shifting the cover from side to side, position the cover for best fit in the opening. You will also be able to set the rear edge of the cover even with the body/nose. The front of the cover may not be aligned and level with the nose at this point. Snug up the bearing housings and allen screw sleeves. Open/close the assembly to make sure all is well and working and aligned as you want. If OK, tighten the six bearing housing bolts, and position the sliding sleeves up against the bearing and tighten the allen screws. There is a long threaded shaft in the housing rear link that sets the level of the front edge of the cover. Close the cover and adjust this as needed. It can be adusted using either a socket of a screw driver. Open/close to make sure all is fitting OK. This is an initial setting.

Now open the assembly to fully locked open position. Slide the actuator bracket back and forth so the light mounting "plane" is vertical. Make sure the car is level and use a carpenter's level to set this. Once done tighten the three bolts that hold the bracket in place. You'll now have to close the assembly and readjust the lower front edge with the long shaft you just initially set.

Install the vacuum actuator (leave the vacuum hoses off) and set the clevis to about where it was. The clevis sets the range and position of the vacuum actuator to ensure the lights go all the way up and down. I did this multiple times using a hose and manually sucking on the correct side of the actuator to make sure it was working.

Now re-install the springs and manually apply vacuum to either side of the canister to make sure it functions normally. I held my hands above the cover to make sure nothing "sudden" happened during this step. Now, open the assembly and set the fully open limit screw/bumper so it's snug and stops the assembly from vibrating when it's open. You should be ready to reconnect the vacuum hoses and give it a final test.

This actually goes much faster than it'll take to read these instructions.

Good luck.

Andy

 

Thanks guys !

Andy...(e-mail sent)
Was this done from under or over the hood ?

Should I put the vette on a hoist ?

The reading is very good, long and intimidating.
I'm just an average guy when it comes to mecanical issues

Guess I'll print these instructions and head out to the car and visualize as I'm reading

Phil

 

Those three bolts on each side are very hard to get at and you may need to remove some parts if they are in the way to loosen the bolts but it will fix your adjustment problem.
You need to work from the bottom and a lift helps.

 

After you finish with the above instructions loosen the 3 bolts on each side holding the pivot's and slide bucket backwards a little and retighten the bolts and your done.I did one yesterday and I did it from the top.Took about 10 mi.

 

Only to access these darn 3 bolts, I need to dismantle many parts !
Unless I'm looking at the wrong ones :o
You had to disconnect all springs right ?

Phil

 

I have to admit the whole front end of my car was empty when I installed mine, and the hood was off. I did most from the hood opening, but everything should be accessable from underneath. Those outboard bolts are very difficult to get to with everything in place. Actually, after putting in the lights it was difficult to put everything else in place. You'll need a variety of tools to get them loose/tight. That front end is "bad/tight" in '69, and I'd have to guess it didn't get any better in the later years.

Whether you use a hoist or not depends on how clean your garage floor is and how much you enjoy laying on your back getting dirt in your eyes. Just one of the many "pleasures" of working on an older car.


Yes, always remove the springs before any adjustments. The springs prevent you from making the adjustment and are dangerous to both you and the car.

I tried to use the part names from the Corvette Central catalog when I wrote the Forum response. The instructions I emailed used "my terminology" which may be a bit confusing.

Also the frame support on mine was a bit loose and allowed for some slight movement of the cover, but it's not intended for that purpose. I'd only loosen and move it if all else failed. I know on some older cars the alignment of the body parts has shifted quite a bit and makes get it "right" difficult. I always tell myself (when it doesn't look just right) "Well, it probably came from the factory that way anyway".

Phil, Keep us posted.

Andy

 

I can't believe all the parts I have to remove simply to get to those 3 bolts
You've said it ! By the time I will be able to make these adjustment, the inside of the nose/front of the vette will be close to empty, free from obstructions

As for the garage, its very clean and no problem lying down for hours
Car will be jacked up and surgery will proceed....
Man this is scary

Thanks again !

Phil

 

Are you sure you have to remove items to get to the 3 bolts? The 68 I did yesterday I did from the top.I have a small swivel head 1/4" drive ratchet with a short 1/2" socket.
I have a 78 in now I will go see if I can access it the same way.

 

Update-I can reach the 3 (6) bolts from the top on the 78.

 

i did mine from the top too. with the hood open and a ratchet type of box wrench i was able to get to all 6 bolts. P.S. I have long arms!

 

Floor is clean. Pillow in place. A cool one next to you. Slide on under and tell the wife how hard you'd been working on the car for the last three hours. And yes, impact wrenches do sound alot like snoring.

Andy

 

EASY !

With the hood open, I can reach the 3 bolts on one side. The one nearest the fender, no way unless my friend provides me with proper rachet reach that I don't know it exists

Still assessing the situation !

Phil

 

Gents....

After reading all of your input, I said to myself : " Damn ! Might as well loosen the 3 bolts that I can reach and see if anything comes lose for me to jiggle the darn frame !"

The 3 bolts were losened and another one nearby, et voila !
Was able to bring/pull back the structure and create the "gap" I was looking for !
This time they were tighten pretty good !

Thanks all !