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Lower Control Arm Bushing Removal

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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 12:54 PM
  #1  
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Default Lower Control Arm Bushing Removal

Any suggestions? The outer sleeve of the lower control arm bushings has a lip, which when the bushing is installed, is pretty much flush to the control arm surface. I removed my upper bushings using a chisel attachment on my impact hammer. (As suggested by Lars) The upper busings have the outer sleeve lip perhaps 1/4 inch away from the control arm so you can get the chisel tip in there and push them out. For the lowers, I'm afraid of damaging the control arm surfaces since I'll have to wedge the chisel between the control arm surface and the inside of the outer sleeve lip. I did try, another forum suggestion, using a 1 1/8 hole saw to drill out the rubber portion of the bushing. I was only partially successful. A lot of the rubber is still in there.

Any more suggestions? I'd like to use the proper tools shown in the service manual, but apparently the Kent Moore tools for this aren't sold anymore. The service manual shows a press being used to push the bushings out. The tooling prevents the press from distorting and bending the control arms.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 12:57 PM
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I use the air chisel on all 4 control arms - haven't damaged one yet...
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 12:59 PM
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I second the air chisel method, works just fine.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 01:01 PM
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I took my control arms outside and with a small propane torch burned the rubber out. It smoke’s like heck but it gave me enough room after to use my air chisel to remove what was left of the bushing.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 03:56 PM
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Default poly only: does Not apply to rubber

If you're going back w/ polyurethane bushings (not rubber) ... no need to remove metal outer shells ... hog out old rubber & pry out old metal inner sleeves ... replace new poly bushing & new metal inner sleeve into old outer shells. New poly bushing ASSEMBLIES are Not bonded like rubber. Poly pops apart with finger pressure ... allowing the pick & choose above. I hogged out my old rubber using a penknife & a $7 hole saw with no arbor bit & repalced w/energy suspension cab assemblies' parts. Method proven out long ago. That for poly only.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 05:43 PM
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I used my air chisel and it worked well on all A-arm bushing removal. I discovered an easy way to install new bushing. When I was a kid my Dad used to install new piston sleeves in tractor engines by freezing them. The frozen sleeve would drop right into the engine and become tight as it warmed. I tried the same procedure with my polyurethane bushings. Take the frozen bushing out of the freezer...tap the bushing lightly and it will drop right into the A-arm with very little effort. As the bushing warms up it becomes tight.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bmotojoe
I took my control arms outside and with a small propane torch burned the rubber out. It smoke’s like heck but it gave me enough room after to use my air chisel to remove what was left of the bushing.
Second that, do it on a buggy night and enjoy the barby with stakes and a few beers. You'll feel like ya got something major done.
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 01:14 AM
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Didn't have the right sized hole saw so I just swiss-cheesed the old bushings with a small drill bit. Then with the cross shaft in the vice and moving the control arm 180* back and forth they broke apart and worked right out. Figured that out on the second control arm and it took about 10 minutes.

I won't say how long in #$(* with the first one
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 01:15 AM
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Nice vette mdbelanger!
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bmotojoe
I took my control arms outside and with a small propane torch burned the rubber out. It smoke’s like heck but it gave me enough room after to use my air chisel to remove what was left of the bushing.


I've done several A-Arms-and this is the best way to go w/o damaging them.

Richard
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