We are trying to replace the left dash pad on my 1977. I have removed the two bolts under the steering column to drop the column but it won't move an inch. I have looked but cannot figure out what else I need to do to allow the steering column to drop down so I can remove and replace the pad and bulbs in the tach and speedo. Can someone tell me what I am missing as I don't want to force anything and it isn't making any sense now... HELP!!! Thank you in advance.

 

Pull the nuts off the rag joint coupling mark both halfs of the joint with a paint marker so you align it at the correct spot when reinstalling. This should all allow you to pull the column back enough to drop the column assembly down.

 

Remove the sill plate the kick panel and the screws that are from the bottom up to the dash pad the ones in the left hand side of the gauge cluster and the screws on the left hand end of the pad. It is hard to do this job with the top dash pad on because the wiring is clamped to the back of the speedo and tack. You will need all the trim off around the windshield and the top pad loose to get wiring loose. The speedo cable will need to be off also. This job is not on the easy list.

 

I have removed the right pad and the top pad. The gauges are nearly impossible to get to and the lower left dash pad broke trying to move it around so I had to buy a new lower left pad (argh) and assembled the vent ball, air conditioner vent, the light socket are all set to go. If I could drop the steering column I am pretty sure I could get this back together now without breaking the second lower left pad. What a pain this has been and all to change out the light bulbs. If I had known it would be this tough I would have left them burnt out. Anyway, now too deep to pull out now so I have to get the drive column down to get the new pad in place. Anything short of this will only damage the new pad. If anyone else ever suggests this job tell them to sell the vette.
I will try to mark the shaft, remove the lower bolts, then remove the upper vertical bolts and hope the column will drop enough to put the pad in place. Once the pad is back in place with fresh bulbs we will put the upper pad and right upper and lower pads back in place. From there we will put the upper gauge cluster back, then the lower gauge cluster, the emergency brake cover and then begin with putting the new carpets in the car. Good thing I like working with my son and sweating because I am getting a lot of both in right now.
Thanks for the help.
David

 

77 sleeper,

It’s best if you remove the upper pad before taking out the lower pad. It’s not real hard and you already have the center bezel loose I hope.

Once you remove the upper pad, the lower pad is simple.

We have an instruction sheet at this link to assist you.

http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=105

Willcox Inc.

 

To get the column to drop you have to loosen the plate where the column goes through the firewall.

 

Well I will tell you it is a PITA. I did mine successfully. It is far easiier with the top pad removed. Make sure everything is sitting in the sun if possible so it is really flexible or the pads will break. Once the top pad is off, detaching all the wiring is much easier. The speedometer has to be detached to or it may feel like the pad will not come loose.

Believe it or not getting it back in is worse. If you buy a repro pad it will not fit right! Fix yours if you can or try and find an NOS piece or really nice used pad. Nice used pads usually come from up north since the sun does not beat them up as much as the southern states.

Change all the bulbs while you are at it because you will not want to do this ever again. Lastly, check to make sure everything works before installing the pad. Hook everything up but the speedo and you should be able to run your checks.

Patience and a few beers in between and you will be fine

Bill

 

We stopped tonight when we got frustrated and I wrote my note for help here in the forum, then we broke out the beer and waited to see if we had any clue what to do next. Thanks for all the suggestions, they make sense and tomorrow morning bright and early we will make another run at it. Everything all have said is true, PITA and all, but when it is done we will have a new appreciation for what all of you who have gone before us have been through. It is also true that if I knew then, what I know now, I think I would not have done it this way at all. Tomorrow we will try to drop the column, then attach the tach and speedo, then put it back together. Lower left bottom pad, then top pad, then lower right pad, then duct tape and bubble gum, a little black die and we should be fine. I will let you know how it turns out and thanks again, much appreciated.
David Howard

 

Follow up to my previous note I thought those of you that are assisting me might like to see where we are in the process. Here is the current status, if status is the right word. Moving forward tomorrow.
Thanks again.
David Howard

 

77,

If you pull all the pads, it’s not that hard! The hardest part of going back together is getting the main harness above the tach and speedo. Pulling the right pad is real simple; pulling the upper pad is not hard at all if you follow our instructions.

Once you have the upper out, you can remove the left pad with ease. You might review the instruction sheet before you do the column drop.

IMHO,

Willcox Inc.

 

I will go over the instructions with a fine tooth comb.
The lower left dash pad is out, so now we are trying to get the lower left dash pad (new) back in without damaging it and without damaging the tach or speedo. Thus far two of the lights have had the wires pull out of the back and we have had to repair those by soldering new brass fixtures in them, so we are trying to be gentle but it is a challenge for sure. I will remove the tach and speedo tomorrow and try again to reattach them after the pad is above the column. Thanks again for all the support, it is much appreciated.
David

 

There are usually 3 bolts holding the column - not 2. Are you sure you got all 3 bolts off..?

 

77 sleeper most people put the speedo and tach in the dash pad and then install them as an assembly.

 

Think he's talking about the 2 just under the speedo and tach.

 

I don't think it's possible to get to all the screws once the pad is installed.

cc

 

Okay, gettting coffee in us now, then heading out to the car again in the garage. We will completely remove the tach and speedo from the car now. We will then attache them to the new lower pad. All other pads are out, we will remove the window trim and see if we can gain access at that time. We will determine if we have to drop the column or not at that point. I just know that at the end of today I am hopeful to have all the pads back in, all gauges working, and have the car look a little more like it can be driven than it does now. When we get this done I think a party is in order We only have two more days to work on the car and then we will take a break to head to our summer cabin for some real R&R and to celebrate our Country's Birthday. I'll fill you all in at the end of the day unless I need more help and I'll check from time to time today.
Thanks agian to you all.
David

 

Before you push the dash back the last two inches or so lay on your back with the drivers seat out and pop all the bulbs in and wiring connections.

 

 

We just finished the lower left dash pad install and have all the bulbs replaced, all the attachments back on the tach and on the speedo including grounds. We are taking a lunch break, then putting the top pad in and attaching the left and right pads to it. We cleaned up the vent pipes as they had 30 years of dust in them, what a mess, but now good as new and back in tip top shape. We loosed the bolts at the firewall to help us lower the column and that did the trick enough to get the left dash pad in place. All of your suggestions were appreciated, were considered and nearly all of them followed. With the left pad in I took pictures and will do so after top pad and right pad as well. After the pads are done we have the upper control panel and lower control panel to do next.

Question for you that have been helping and others if you wish to chime in here. We have carpet to lay, upper and lower console and emergency brake covers to go on the car. Here are my questions?

1) When would you put the carpet down, before or after the upper and lower console are installed?
2) When do you cut the bracket openings in the carpet? My old carpet is so beaten it is not a good source of data.
3) Do you lay the carpet from front to back, from back to front, or does it matter?
4) You that have laid carpeting previously, please share your tricks with us. We are all ears.

Thanking you all for your help.

David and Adam Howard

 

The Left Dash Pad is in. It is not what we would call a quality fit and finish as there is a gap on the left side of the lower dash between it and the upper dash pad, but not enough to have me stop and try again with another pad. Here is the finished left lower dash pad with the upper pad in now.
We did a start up of the engine and checked the vacuum and lights, all working well. We also installed the upper dash pad and the lower right dash pad today and then called it a day. Tomorrow we will install the upper gauge cluster and lower gauge cluster including the new 200 Watt Radio. Thanks for all your consideration and help, it is appreciated.
Best regards,
David and Adam Howard