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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 10:33 AM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
let me get this straight, you're suggesting spending $1,500 to swap rear gears; a problem that could be solved with a $200 cam swap? Not to mention that with the higher numeric gear the car becomes harder to drive, wears parts out faster, and gets much worse mileage.... while I certainly understand the idea of laying out all the options - I wonder about at what point the answer is in the weeds....
The op is well over 300 FWHP and 350 ft lbs with his present setup. A cam swap will not improve on that much without heads or head modifications and other upgrades. If you move the powerband up the resulting decrease in lower rpm power is not what he is looking for. If more seat of the pants acceleration is the objective a lower gear differential is the solution. It is no harder to drive. Fuel mileage will decrease. Crusing RPM will increase. It will feel noticably quicker. Price you pay.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 10:37 AM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Yes. Valve starts moving as soon as the lifter hits the start of the ramp. Duration @ .050 will determine what RPM range the cam makes power in.
Well, you guys certainly sound knowledgeable, but a hydraulic lifter has a spring below the pushrod cup that can compress to avoid lifter noise, wouldn't the hydraulic lifter spring compress when the lifter first starts riding up the cam lobe and the valve stay where it is until the slack is taken up in the lifter spring? In other words, with a hydraulic cam, how can the valve start moving as soon as the lifter hits the start of the ramp?
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 10:39 AM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
The op is well over 300 FWHP and 350 ft lbs with his present setup. A cam swap will not improve on that much without heads or head modifications and other upgrades.
That's what I said in post #171.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 10:43 AM
  #144  
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Super BuickGuy
probably was only 40. that is my point about steep gears. it makes you THINK it is really fast, but it is just an illusion. Long time ago, I track drag raced a 318 Duster w/3 spd stick and 3.23 rear non-posi. Got a 4 spd and a 4.56 sure grip, and it was amazingly quick. My friends were dumbfounded when i took them for a ride. It was a rocket!
BUT, funny thing at the track, the times were NO BETTER!
sold 4spd and 4.56 the next day.

Last edited by Matt Gruber; Jan 16, 2013 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 10:58 AM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by Priya
Well, you guys certainly sound knowledgeable, but a hydraulic lifter has a spring below the pushrod cup that can compress to avoid lifter noise, wouldn't the hydraulic lifter spring compress when the lifter first starts riding up the cam lobe and the valve stay where it is until the slack is taken up in the lifter spring? In other words, with a hydraulic cam, how can the valve start moving as soon as the lifter hits the start of the ramp?
Oil is non-compressible. It would clatter like loose solids if that spring did what u say. In fact, when the oil pump drive broke in my 67, i soon heard that lifter clatter, since it had no oil psi.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 11:02 AM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
The op is well over 300 FWHP and 350 ft lbs with his present setup. A cam swap will not improve on that much without heads or head modifications and other upgrades. If you move the powerband up the resulting decrease in lower rpm power is not what he is looking for. If more seat of the pants acceleration is the objective a lower gear differential is the solution. It is no harder to drive. Fuel mileage will decrease. Crusing RPM will increase. It will feel noticably quicker. Price you pay.
Ahem...I'm at 260RWHP and 309ft/lbs torque...350 ft/lbs would be nice to have. How can I shift that power band to lower RPMs?
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 11:06 AM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
The op is well over 300 FWHP and 350 ft lbs with his present setup. A cam swap will not improve on that much without heads or head modifications and other upgrades. If you move the powerband up the resulting decrease in lower rpm power is not what he is looking for. If more seat of the pants acceleration is the objective a lower gear differential is the solution. It is no harder to drive. Fuel mileage will decrease. Crusing RPM will increase. It will feel noticably quicker. Price you pay.
Don't knock it until you try it. I was all ready to buy a scat 3.75 stroker crank in 1999. But, i tried the XE262 and i was quite satisfied. Cancelled plans for stroker.
BUT, it sometimes did not spin the tires. Then in 2007 i put in the 4holer and shut off 1 unneeded carb passage. All this talk about TM, but mako doesn't believe what i'm doing really works. What a shame
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by Matt Gruber
Oil is non-compressible. It would clatter like loose solids if that spring did what u say. In fact, when the oil pump drive broke in my 67, i soon heard that lifter clatter, since it had no oil psi.
Isn't there a small hole in the middle of the side of the lifter to allow oil to escape?
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 11:24 AM
  #149  
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i started with a 265 56 chevy.
then a 283. They were fun to drive with their stock cams.
a 350 has massive torque by comparison. Guys put the wrong cam in a 350, and think they need a 383. With the right cam/setup they usually don't. Talking about real street cars, not drag cars with slicks. I don't see the point of say, 500 hp, if my street tires are maxed out at ~375. I always chuckle at the high HP guys complaining about wheelspin, even at 60 or 100mph. Those guys wasted $$$$$ on power they can't use. A shame. And despite all that "HP", often it is still a dog off the line without a steep gear/high stall. I have to apply throttle very slowly so as not to spin the tires. Otherwise my tires won't last 3,000 miles. That's with a 3.08 and stock stall, 2100.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by 79vetter
Ahem...I'm at 260RWHP and 309ft/lbs torque...350 ft/lbs would be nice to have. How can I shift that power band to lower RPMs?

The 260 rwhp and 309 torque were measured at the rear wheels. taking into acount the power required to turn transmission, ring and pinion your car would be producin roughly 300 hp and 350 ft lbs of torque at the flywheel which is pretty good.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 11:53 AM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by Matt Gruber
i started with a 265 56 chevy.
then a 283. They were fun to drive with their stock cams.
a 350 has massive torque by comparison. Guys put the wrong cam in a 350, and think they need a 383. With the right cam/setup they usually don't. Talking about real street cars, not drag cars with slicks. I don't see the point of say, 500 hp, if my street tires are maxed out at ~375. I always chuckle at the high HP guys complaining about wheelspin, even at 60 or 100mph. Those guys wasted $$$$$ on power they can't use. A shame. And despite all that "HP", often it is still a dog off the line without a steep gear/high stall. I have to apply throttle very slowly so as not to spin the tires. Otherwise my tires won't last 3,000 miles. That's with a 3.08 and stock stall, 2100.
After owning a C6Z with ~450rwhp, I'm plenty fine with the 78 not making that much.

Though, I'm not going to knock on the guys with the big power builds... if they enjoy it let 'em to it.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 12:07 PM
  #152  
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Lots of guys with big power do go to the drags, with slicks, and it is a great hobby. They just forgot, or never knew how to harness the great torque of a 350 on the street. Then they give bogus advice to street only guys like: NEED GEARS, NEED STROKER NEED HIGH STALL, NEED ROLLER CAM, etc. It just sends them down the wrong path FOR THEIR INTENDED USE.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 12:32 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
The op is well over 300 FWHP and 350 ft lbs with his present setup. A cam swap will not improve on that much without heads or head modifications and other upgrades. If you move the powerband up the resulting decrease in lower rpm power is not what he is looking for. If more seat of the pants acceleration is the objective a lower gear differential is the solution. It is no harder to drive. Fuel mileage will decrease. Crusing RPM will increase. It will feel noticably quicker. Price you pay.
And the best part of all, at the top end of the track - when I blow by him - he'll be going slow enough that he won't hit his doors when I suck them off his car because they'll be so far ahead of him.

I tried the low gear ratio idea in a 06 GTO. It went from nearly impossible to launch in 1st gear, to impossible in 1st and 2nd, and sluggish in 3rd (3.46 to 3.91)....

and I'm still sticking with my opinion - he doesn't have enough cam for the combo -
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 12:36 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by Matt Gruber
Super BuickGuy
probably was only 40. that is my point about steep gears. it makes you THINK it is really fast, but it is just an illusion. Long time ago, I track drag raced a 318 Duster w/3 spd stick and 3.23 rear non-posi. Got a 4 spd and a 4.56 sure grip, and it was amazingly quick. My friends were dumbfounded when i took them for a ride. It was a rocket!
BUT, funny thing at the track, the times were NO BETTER!
sold 4spd and 4.56 the next day.
my first love remains four wheeling - and I can assuredly say the Scout wasn't the worse handling 4x4 I had - that trophy goes to the FJ40s I owned.... in that those, 30 felt like 100 and required a 4 lane highway to stay between the foglines (until I did a shackle reversal, then they all handled pretty much the same).

that was a good guesstimate about the final gear ratio - it calculates to 6.1:1 in low range.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 12:37 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by Matt Gruber
Lots of guys with big power do go to the drags, with slicks, and it is a great hobby. They just forgot, or never knew how to harness the great torque of a 350 on the street. Then they give bogus advice to street only guys like: NEED GEARS, NEED STROKER NEED HIGH STALL, NEED ROLLER CAM, etc. It just sends them down the wrong path FOR THEIR INTENDED USE.
so true - they build a motor, not a car.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 01:08 PM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Yes. Valve starts moving as soon as the lifter hits the start of the ramp. Duration @ .050 will determine what RPM range the cam makes power in.
Originally Posted by Priya
Well, you guys certainly sound knowledgeable, but a hydraulic lifter has a spring below the pushrod cup that can compress to avoid lifter noise, wouldn't the hydraulic lifter spring compress when the lifter first starts riding up the cam lobe and the valve stay where it is until the slack is taken up in the lifter spring? In other words, with a hydraulic cam, how can the valve start moving as soon as the lifter hits the start of the ramp?
Originally Posted by Matt Gruber
Oil is non-compressible. It would clatter like loose solids if that spring did what u say. In fact, when the oil pump drive broke in my 67, i soon heard that lifter clatter, since it had no oil psi.
Originally Posted by Priya
Isn't there a small hole in the middle of the side of the lifter to allow oil to escape?
I checked into it and there is a bleed hole in the side of the hydraulic lifter that allows oil to escape, I assume there has to be one otherwise there'd be no point to the spring and moveable cup in the hydraulic lifter as the oil in it would keep it rigid at all times.

I'm not trying to be a B, but how can the valve start opening as soon as the lifter hits the start of the ramp when there is a spring in the hydraulic lifter, a moveable cup holding the pushrod, and the oil in the lifter can escape through a bleed hole allowing the pushrod cup to lower in the lifter when it starts going up the ramp?
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 01:19 PM
  #157  
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It's the size of the hole that matters. The tiny hole can't possible let fluid out fast enough to allow compression of the lifter. Generally, the problem is just the opposite - valve float because the lifter pumps up

Another way to illustrate the principle.
A 'trick' to get a hydraulic lifter to act more like a solid lifter is to turn the adjust nut 1/8" turn from zero lash - then it can't pump up as much at high revs - the fluid doesn't rush out at high rpms, it gets trapped in the lifter at high rpms - which holds the valve open
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 01:52 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
It's the size of the hole that matters. The tiny hole can't possible let fluid out fast enough to allow compression of the lifter. Generally, the problem is just the opposite - valve float because the lifter pumps up

Another way to illustrate the principle.
A 'trick' to get a hydraulic lifter to act more like a solid lifter is to turn the adjust nut 1/8" turn from zero lash - then it can't pump up as much at high revs - the fluid doesn't rush out at high rpms, it gets trapped in the lifter at high rpms - which holds the valve open
I see, thanks.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 02:23 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by Matt Gruber
I had a 345 scout with a dual range transfer case.
i'd put it in low range in 4x4, and it would LEAP. Top speed was 60mph, but it got there FAST.
that is like a 6:1 rear.
.
I think the long GM ramps are early Torque Management. TM is used on new cars to cut back low rpm torque and reduce warranty claims. So they used the long ramps in c3's to prevent burning the tires at every stop. They even slighty cut down the divider in some cars to further reduce torque. I've also seen iron intakes with passages connecting the 2 planes. What do you think that was for? TM! Sneaky, Huh!?
With my truck you tune the computer to reduce torque management. Makes a huge difference in low rpm tourque. It also has a varble valve timing cam, i wonder how hard that will be to change.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 02:38 PM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by 79vetter
Ahem...I'm at 260RWHP and 309ft/lbs torque...350 ft/lbs would be nice to have. How can I shift that power band to lower RPMs?
You can go with a modern camshaft, like the xe262h or the one below that. This would reduce the rpm range some, if you go smaller than the 262 youll loose top end power. You might try advancing your cam first, a cheaper attempt at a solution. If you wanted the same power with a lower rpm range youd need better heads. You could change the gear ratio to multiply torque a little more and get you into the rpm range quicker.
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