What a load of crap! You guys crack me up!

If I spent my life worrying about parts that might fail in an enigine, I'd never drive any of my cars!

So far no one has given me a valid reason not to use this part - I'm sorry, but the possibility of it failing is not a good enough reason for me! Give me some hard evidence to support your theory, and I will listen. I'll make you guys a deal: I'll use it, and when it fails and damages my engine, I will create a thread just to say you were right and you can say I told you so!

As far as I know, Comp Cams is not an amature parts maker, and I don't understand calling it "phony roller junk". Do you not understand how or why it would work? I think progression and technological advancements scare some people, but without them, where would this hobby be? I can only imagine what the naysayers were saying when roller cams, lifters, and rocker arms first made their appearances: "JUNK!"; "They are going to fail because of all those extra parts!"; "Why complicate things?!"

I started this thread looking for some real-world feedback; first hand knowledge - not hearsay or opinions or theories.

Like I said, provide me with some hard evidence, and I will listen.

 

Yup, after about 4 years and 12,000 miles on the engine, my cam failed. Since the majority of cam failures seem to happen during break-in, I figured I was fine using off the shelf oils. This just validates my point that any part can fail at any time - even the lowly and simple flat tappet cam!

 

I say get it. But still think an electric fuel pump would be better. Like I said earlier the stroker was gonna get one till I went with the HSR and electric fuel pump. Too bad the HSR doesn't fit under a C3 hood. They are cool as hell.

 

Total "waste" of good "hard-earned" funds, which are much scarcer today!

The "cast" core roller platform is fine with both the "stock" (factory) fuel-pump pushrod AND the "stock" (factory) distributor gear!

As for "worrying" about a failure, if the "piece" fails, you'll understand why many are pointing this out! Much like a "solid-roller" lifter failure?

Could ruin an entire season of using your "ride", not to mention the "collateral" damage! This IS NOT imagined, it COULD be very real.

If you have a "cast" cam blank (Comp's part number for their cast pieces ends in a "-8" number, while the "steelies" end in a "-9") be sure to get the correct part number!.

The "steelies" are really the way to go, although, not as "critical" in the SB"s with lesser R/A ratios. Have used many "cast" with not a single issue on BOTH platform's, SB & BB!

For the "cast" blanks, use the "stock" G.M. pushrod OR you can use the #4616 (highly recommended) lightweight piece for the cast cam. If you go the "steelie" route, use the #4607, this is the "lightweight bronzed-tipped for the steel cores.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Doing this 100% of the time for a living,we try to avoid using parts that aren't a "true" 100% requirement. If there's a less expensive avenue and there are NO downside-effects, we will choose this route! The 4607 averages $13.00, the 4616 averages $15.00, and the 4609 (roller-tip) averages $100.00. To me, from a business standpoint, this is a "no-brainer"!!!!!!

 

GOSFAST, thanks for your input, but do you have any real-world feedback about this part, especially seeing as how you are in the business? Or are you just another person that thinks this part might fail? As I clearly stated in my first post, I am not concerned with how much it costs or if it is required or not, so your following quotes are not relevant to my original question:

I'm not in business, so I'm not worried about the cost. As for it failing, I am so tired of repeating myself, but ANY engine part can fail at any time!

For the love of God, is there something I don't know that all of you do know about this part failing? Please tell me!!!! My driving season has already been ruined by a flat tappet cam failure, where were you guys then? Why didn't someone advise me NOT to use an inferior failure-prone flat tappet cam?

Part failure is not a valid reason to not use this part - any part can fail.

 

Ironcross your great man don't hold anything back, piece of crap,
damn I started laughing when I read that.

7tvette you asked for a reason not to run the part I gave you two reasons, surely you don't think this rod is going to make power. There is no reason to spend the extra money even if it never did fail. But if it does fail there will be expensive damage. There is nothing on a regular rod to fail.

There is nothing to be gained by using this part and two reasons it could fail.
But its your money go for it if thats what you want.

 

Don't forget to pick me up one on your past Summitracing this week

 

Man..is this getting emotional or what?

I've been doing this stuff for a long time. I've seen about 3 fuel pump lobes fail on cams. All of them were billet roller cams where someone used a stock pushrod. Take that back...saw 2 fail when people forgot to remove the little bolt in the front of engine they used to hold the pushrod while changing the pump.

Take a look around and see what NASCAR uses to run their mechanical pumps.

The load on a fuel pump lobe isn't tremendous...just steady constant running.

If you're happy with it, buy it,..you've already made your mind up. Won't hurt a thing...won't help a thing either.

I know Gary doesn't worry about the Austempered cores....and he builds lots of engines.....but if I was going to drop an extra $100 anywhere..I'd have surely spent $30 of it getting that cam put on a real billet cam core. Then then another $50 getting a pressed on iron gear for the dist. Not sure what spring pressure you'll be using, but with all the folks kicking pressures up to make the HR's rev more...it's just adding more and more load to a cast iron core. THAT $80 would give you some reliability improvements. The only reason Comp uses them is it's the cheapest way to get by...NOT because it's better. If you're willing to pay a little more they will do a better job of making it.

It's pretty interesting to see the price of the thing. They must sell very few of them in the grand scheme of things for them to still cost that much. Maybe that just means they last forever? I dunno...but again...never seen a worn out stock one either. But I have to admit....I've seen a few of these used, and never saw one of them fail.


Anyway...good luck.


JIM

 

To answer your question specifically AND from a business standpoint, NOT as a "user", I see absolutely no reason to use this piece. It will NOT give you any more HP, it WILL leave your wallet "lighter" (already mentioned), and it comes down to what we call here, a "customer choice". Again, from a business standpoint, if "something's not broke, don't fix it", it's that simple! If I build you're unit and tell (recommend) to you NOT to use it, THEN the piece "fails", I say "you're on your own", BUT, on the "flip-side", if I recommend using it and it fails, it becomes MY problem. This isn't "rocket science", it's good old-fashioned "common-sense"!!

To add to the answer, I haven't sold one of these in 45+ years, to me that "sums" it fairly well. Over here, it would be a "non-issue"!!

Hi Jim, over here we choose the "-9" cores when budget's dictate, some people do have limits. We try to make the customer not only satisfied, but he MUST not be disappointed in the "end-result". To be more "open" about the core choices, I have more of an issue ONLY on the BB"s using the cast cores (hydraulic) due ONLY to the higher R/A ratios. I will NOT build a "cast-core/solid-roller" unit (SB or BB) and have no "platform" even available. The SB "cast-core/hyd. roller" is considered a "non-issue" for "streeter's" here, not 1/4 mile pieces!

Through dyno testing, sometimes daily (non-stop) by a "dedicated" dyno operator, we get to keep track of what does & doesn't work. Haven't had a lobe OR lifter go down in some years now, even with the less-than-desirable oil's being marketed!

This is not meant or taken to mean "bragging", it IS all fact, period! I've devoted much time specific to the "retro-hydraulic platform" and can almost guarantee what will "stay-out" when it leaves the dyno room, and by the same token, when the customer gets into the decision-making end (which is somewhat rare today), I can also "guarantee" what I will see back ahead of time.

There's absolutely no reason to "fear" ANY flat-tappet platform, hydraulic OR solid, only requires some add'l "attention-to-details". Personally, I enjoy the add'l HP available with "roller" cams, hyd. or solid!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I have a few customer's who are also not "afraid" when cost's are mentioned, but believe me when I tell you, I have more on the other side of the fence, moreso lately! I'm being asked for some "mileage" if possible on future builds!!

 

No problem Wayne! Are you sure about this decision though? I mean, have you really thought it all through? After all, it does cost alot more, is not needed, and is very likely to fail!

 

I'm telling you its going to fail, you will walk out of your house tomorrow
the sky will fall down on your head, you will go to work find out your company went under your now out of a job.

I'm a little worried about aluminum valve spring retainers.

 

I agree Gary....you can make any of this stuff live if you do it right. I've helped people spec some serious solid flat tappets lately and they are doing fine. A nice mild HR will likely live fine on a cast core...but as I said..if I was looking to spend some money to improve a motor...the money would be better spent. Hard to imagine a motor where cost is of little concern using cheap parts.

Small blocks will take a lot more on cams..so the cast ones will last better...and most HR's aren't that radical. But increasingly lately folks are really kicking up the HR lobes and pressures and problems are bound to be coming soon. No reason not to expect it...some of these are near solid roller specs and pressures.

Your example of no 1/4 miler or solid rollers or BB's on a cast core tells a lot. If it's mild enough it will work..if not...hang on!


JIM

 

Maybe, and just maybe I would consider the use in a high HP race engine. However I doubt it. But without getting real technical you have to agree roller stuff use needle bearings, right? In a fuel pump push rod they have to be tiny to even get the rod into the block. Fortunately the pressure with a pump is no wheres near a roller camshaft with double or more valve springs and a rev kit in the valley to keep the lifter from bouncing and destroying the cam. I presume you are using a rev kit with your roller cam. Or is this roller stuff just make good conversation and bragging rights during bench racing sessions at the local cruise nights.

All kidding aside you wanted reasons to abstain from this special part. Werll none of the GM high HP engines have them and the stock ones work perfectly with the 427 L88`s, ZL1`s and the 454 LS7 that each one is putting out gobs of raw HP. But personally I would never recommend that push rod for 'street' applications.

But do as you want its you money and Vette. Just keep a stock one in the glove box. I gather a few here dont think its necessary so keep us posted. You never know you may even convert us.

 

I bought the comp cam roller fuel pushrod,because of a couple articles i read about with this crappy oil we have now a days several people have wiped out the fuel push rod lobes on thier cams do to the oil.

 

You forgot the part where my wife leaves me and my dog dies! And all because I had to use that dang roller pushrod!

 

I've been using a hardened ARP pushrod on my Comp roller cam for 3 years now, still good!

 

Now that would be interesting to see. So the lifters lived and the fuel pump lobe wiped out? Hmmmnnnnnnn....


Oil today may not be all it once was....but it's not the death of our motors.

JIM

 

I thought about using one of those on my hydraulic roller motor, until the guy at Schnieder racing cams told me "Your money could be better wasted elsewhere" By the way, there are no needle bearings in that item - its a metal roller on a pin - nothing more.

I ended up using a bronze tipped one and have been happy ever since.

I know no-one who has used it so I know of no failures. Buy the part it looks cool - but with the minimal pressure the fuel pump imparts to the cam lobe its little more than hidden eye candy IMO

 

Just run a bronze tip. Billet cams can use light weight rod.

 

Hey I thought about telling you when you come back home from what was your job your dog lifts his leg pisses on your ankle , but I figured I gave you enough gloom and doom.