Looking at one for mine too 
Comp Cams roller fuel pump pushrod
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The ORIGINAL and bestest
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Comp Cams roller fuel pump pushrod
I am building a new 406 since my old one decided to eat a few cam lobes earlier in the spring, and I am considering using the Comp roller fuel pump pushrod because I am now going with a roller cam; has anyone used this and has any feedback? I know it's not needed and costs 10 times more than a non-roller one, but I don't mind spending the money on it if it works.
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/In.../COMP4-101.pdf
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/In.../COMP4-101.pdf
Racer
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From: Tampa by way of MIAMI! FL
I forget how much they are but when I built my 383ci I decided it just made more sense to go electric fuel pump. But if you are gonna stay with a mechanical you just gotta go with that I mean if you got a roller cam how could you NOT have a roller fuel pump rod? I mean considering they make one and all. lol
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I forget how much they are but when I built my 383ci I decided it just made more sense to go electric fuel pump. But if you are gonna stay with a mechanical you just gotta go with that I mean if you got a roller cam how could you NOT have a roller fuel pump rod? I mean considering they make one and all. lol
Exactly!
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They are fine, but I just used the one with the bronze tip and it worked fine.
I'm assuming it's on a real billet core and not an austempered one?
JIM
I'm assuming it's on a real billet core and not an austempered one?
JIM
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Drifting
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I used the comp tipped one, no issues with it on my comp roller cam. In fact I pulled the rod last winter for inspection and it was perfect with no wear.
vettr uses the roller one on his roller cam, he has not had any issues either.
Neither of our comp roller cams are billet....off the shelf.
so there you go, both work well.
vettr uses the roller one on his roller cam, he has not had any issues either.
Neither of our comp roller cams are billet....off the shelf.
so there you go, both work well.
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Thread Starter
The ORIGINAL and bestest
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From: Toronto Ontario
Toronto Events Coordinator
Thread Starter
The ORIGINAL and bestest
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From: Toronto Ontario
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I used the comp tipped one, no issues with it on my comp roller cam. In fact I pulled the rod last winter for inspection and it was perfect with no wear.
vettr uses the roller one on his roller cam, he has not had any issues either.
Neither of our comp roller cams are billet....off the shelf.
so there you go, both work well.
vettr uses the roller one on his roller cam, he has not had any issues either.
Neither of our comp roller cams are billet....off the shelf.
so there you go, both work well.
Unless someone pipes in with a good reason not to use the roller version, thats what I will do.
Le Mans Master
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To me it just looks like a lot of stuff to fail cause problems with no need for the extra complication, If they were both the same price I would use the bronze tip.
Keep it simple if you can less stuff to fail.
Higher lifts more agressive cams more valve spring pressure these are good reasons to use a roller cam but what is the reason for this ??
Keep it simple if you can less stuff to fail.
Higher lifts more agressive cams more valve spring pressure these are good reasons to use a roller cam but what is the reason for this ??
Last edited by Little Mouse; Jul 13, 2008 at 12:03 AM.
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The reason it metal on metal contact. Mine is a billet steel cam, I have everything else roller. The fuel pump pushrod is the only thing left to fail with todays oils or should I say the pushrod lobe on the cam is left to mercy of todays oil
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To me it just looks like a lot of stuff to fail cause problems with no need for the extra complication, If they were both the same price I would use the bronze tip.
Keep it simple if you can less stuff to fail.
Higher lifts more agressive cams more valve spring pressure these are good reasons to use a roller cam but what is the reason for this ??
Keep it simple if you can less stuff to fail.
Higher lifts more agressive cams more valve spring pressure these are good reasons to use a roller cam but what is the reason for this ??
The fuel pump pushrod isn't nearly stressed as the lifters, so I think the chances of failure are pretty low. I'm sure Comp didn't just slap these together with parts they found laying around, they would be engineered to do the job at hand.
Le Mans Master
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You have a softer bronze up against the cam lobe. with this pushrod you have the posibility of the roller failing, then you have a slot with steel stuck up in it, two places for constant metal contact just trying to keep the thing in line from not turning. what if it busts the steel tip running up in the slot, the roller goes sideways screws up the cam lobe.This thing is just complication for no reason that I can see. Have you seen a bronze dist gear do in a steel billit cam gear does not happen
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You have a softer bronze up against the cam lobe. with this pushrod you have the posibility of the roller failing, then you have a slot with steel stuck up in it, two places for constant metal contact just trying to keep the thing in line from not turning. what if it busts the steel tip running up in the slot, the roller goes sideways screws up the cam lobe.This thing is just complication for no reason that I can see. Have you seen a bronze dist gear do in a steel billit cam gear does not happen
BTW, with Comp's non-billet roller street cams, a regular pushrod will do, a bronze tipped one is not needed......nor is a bronze distributor gear.
Last edited by 7t2vette; Jul 13, 2008 at 12:49 AM.
Le Mans Master
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I understand your point about keeping things simple, but as most of us know, any part can fail at any time, and apparantly sometimes for no apparant reason! Is there some specific reason you feel this particular part is doomed to fail?!?!
BTW, with Comp's non-billet roller street cams, a regular pushrod will do, a bronze tipped one is not needed......nor is a bronze distributor gear.
BTW, with Comp's non-billet roller street cams, a regular pushrod will do, a bronze tipped one is not needed......nor is a bronze distributor gear.
This pushrod has a roller end on it that can fail, think about this you take your car for say a two hundred mile drive takes you a little over three hour's to drive it, how many times has the fuel pump pushrod went up and down in that three hour period with a tip stuck up in a slot, you don't have all these extra things on a regular fuel pump push rod. lets say you just wanted to do it convinced yourself the roller end would be a little less friction, well the slotted pushrod with a tip stuck up in it would have a certain amount of friction contact trying to keep the rod aligned. If that tip does break fuel pump rod and roller turn sideways no telling what could get screwed up. If the roller fails turning on its axle same grief.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Jul 13, 2008 at 01:56 AM.
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A regular pushrod is just simple it will have a simple bronze end on it.
This pushrod has a roller end on it that could fail, think about this you take your car for say a two hundred mile drive takes you a little over three hour's to drive it, how many times has the fuel pump pushrod went up and down in that three hour period with a tip stuck up in a slot, you don't have all these extra things on a regular fuel pump push rod. lets say you just wanted to do it convinced yourself the roller end would be a little less friction, well the slotted pushrod with a tip stuck up in it would have a certain amount of friction contact trying to keep the rod aligned. If that tip does break fuel pump rod and roller turn sideways no telling what could get screwed up. If the roller fails turning on its axle same grief.
I only used the bronze gears that are used with steel billet race cams
that have billet cam gears as an example. Bronze dist. gears have a lot of teeth trying to mesh plus the gear has the load of turning the oil pump all the oil trying to be pumped they don't last real high milage, but the bronze tip fuel pump pushrod is not going anyplace and they work.
This pushrod has a roller end on it that could fail, think about this you take your car for say a two hundred mile drive takes you a little over three hour's to drive it, how many times has the fuel pump pushrod went up and down in that three hour period with a tip stuck up in a slot, you don't have all these extra things on a regular fuel pump push rod. lets say you just wanted to do it convinced yourself the roller end would be a little less friction, well the slotted pushrod with a tip stuck up in it would have a certain amount of friction contact trying to keep the rod aligned. If that tip does break fuel pump rod and roller turn sideways no telling what could get screwed up. If the roller fails turning on its axle same grief.
I only used the bronze gears that are used with steel billet race cams
that have billet cam gears as an example. Bronze dist. gears have a lot of teeth trying to mesh plus the gear has the load of turning the oil pump all the oil trying to be pumped they don't last real high milage, but the bronze tip fuel pump pushrod is not going anyplace and they work.
There is alot that can go wrong in an engine, especially with a full-roller valvetrain!
Le Mans Master
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Yes, your logic is logical: a regular pushrod is simpler and the roller one has more parts and is therefore more complicated.....BUT is the mere possibility of it failing the only reason I shouldn't use it, or do you have some other solid reason to believe it actually IS going to fail! You don't need to sell me on the keep-it-simple theory - I get it! There is alot that can go wrong in an engine, especially with a full-roller valvetrain!
There is alot that can go wrong in an engine, especially with a full-roller valvetrain!Last edited by Little Mouse; Jul 13, 2008 at 03:25 AM.
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This is just another piece of crap to fall apart. I use to joke about the "roller push rods"s in my engines to those that wondered why they always run so good. Lo and behold they now make the suckers,, I guess i`ll have to use some other phony roller junk like 'roller valve springs' or 'roller rings' It`s amazing what the word 'roller' does to amature engine builders. They buy anything....good, bad, or indifferent like 'roller push rods' ...
I guess i`ll have to use some other phony roller junk like 'roller valve springs' or 'roller rings' It`s amazing what the word 'roller' does to amature engine builders. They buy anything....good, bad, or indifferent like 'roller push rods' ...
Racer
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From: Tampa by way of MIAMI! FL
Yeah but the same mentality of running roller everything can also buy you a good deal of extra horse power. I understand the thought process of more stuff to fail but they use much better stuff and have much better QC now that when these parts first came out and the addadge started. Remeber that the simple Flat Tappet cam started this thread. IDK the whole story but it probably was because of the "new" oil.