How to rivet ball joint?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,623
Likes: 242
From: Russell Ontario
St. Jude Donor '09
I usually use a zip gun "air hammer" you can also use hammer and chisel, if you are real good, a cutting torche can be used also, but be carefull how deep you cut!!! Ron, oh and you can drill it too!
Last edited by RonR80; Aug 13, 2008 at 10:43 AM. Reason: spelling
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 857
Likes: 1
From: Morrisonville Illinios
Thanks Guys I should have asked about PUTTING the #$@! rivit back in. I can get the old out but what about using rivits to put the ball joint back in (more Original!)? What do you use for that? 
about grade 8 (alot easier)but could they be too strong(brittle).
WRO87
about grade 8 (alot easier)but could they be too strong(brittle).WRO87
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
That is true. What I don't understand is why people would install new bolts that are grade 5. Grade 8's are just a little bit more, and are stronger. I guess its preference though. Me, I only install grade 8 bolts, that is unless the application calls for a lower grade bolt.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
The reason that solid rivets are used there is because they are a 'hole-filling' fastener, i.e., when they are completely shot they fit very tightly against the wall of their attach holes allowing for no movement within the holes. The only way to properly duplicate this is to replace the new balljoints with the same type rivets. This is done by using a rivet gun with the proper driver or 'set' placed against the rivet head and a 'bucking bar' against the tail. Generally not a job for a novice car mechanic, unless you happen to have experience working on aircraft. If you absolutely must install bolts, they should be grade 8 with a good securing mechanism for the nuts (a lockwasher AND Loctite) and the holes in the control arms should be no more than .001"-.002" larger than the bolts.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
This is getting way out of control! It's not that critical in the least for goodness sake. I replaced a bunch of them in the past and it's not scientific. Just knock out the old rivets and bolt the new ones in - that's all there is to it. If you are hell-bent on rivets, go for it as long as you get them secured CORRECTLY. For the general wrencher, bolts are a better bet and will outlast the ball joints.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,117
From: Crossville TN
Rivets must be properly squeezed into final position so that the entire hole is filled with rivet material. That means you need to have the proper kind of rivet forming equipment, or the rivet will not hold up. Put in some Grade 8 bolts, nuts, and locking washers. If you really want replacement rivets, take it somewhere that can hammer them in properly or rent the proper equipment. [I'd go with the bolts.]
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 199
Likes: 2
From: Suffern NY
I bought the rivet set and jig from Zip products and riveted in the ball joints on my lower a-arms using an air hammer.
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...EB1BB9FA11B450
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...EB1BB9FA11B450
They came out nice but I was not sure if the rivet expanded in the hole. FORTUNATELY(???) I bent the A-arm pressing in my bushings and had to drill out the rivets to transfer the ball joint to a replacement Arm.
WHen I drilled off the head, I fully expected the rivet shaft to push right out of the hole but IT HAD expanded in the hole in the A-arm and was nice and tight. I had to drill it out just as I had the original factory rivets.
I will admit it took about 2 test runs on an old a-arm to get the technique but the Zip product (Actually sourced from L.I. corvette supply) worked very well. I can now rivet these in about 5 minutes for each rivet in my garage. If you buy the kit and have any questinons, you can PM me.
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...EB1BB9FA11B450
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...EB1BB9FA11B450
They came out nice but I was not sure if the rivet expanded in the hole. FORTUNATELY(???) I bent the A-arm pressing in my bushings and had to drill out the rivets to transfer the ball joint to a replacement Arm.
WHen I drilled off the head, I fully expected the rivet shaft to push right out of the hole but IT HAD expanded in the hole in the A-arm and was nice and tight. I had to drill it out just as I had the original factory rivets.
I will admit it took about 2 test runs on an old a-arm to get the technique but the Zip product (Actually sourced from L.I. corvette supply) worked very well. I can now rivet these in about 5 minutes for each rivet in my garage. If you buy the kit and have any questinons, you can PM me.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
The reason that solid rivets are used there is because they are a 'hole-filling' fastener, i.e., when they are completely shot they fit very tightly against the wall of their attach holes allowing for no movement within the holes. The only way to properly duplicate this is to replace the new balljoints with the same type rivets. This is done by using a rivet gun with the proper driver or 'set' placed against the rivet head and a 'bucking bar' against the tail. Generally not a job for a novice car mechanic, unless you happen to have experience working on aircraft. If you absolutely must install bolts, they should be grade 8 with a good securing mechanism for the nuts (a lockwasher AND Loctite) and the holes in the control arms should be no more than .001"-.002" larger than the bolts.