wro87

What is the best method to get the smash the !$@% lower ball joint rivet? The lower one is shot from no grease. Thanks wro87

RonR80

I usually use a zip gun "air hammer" you can also use hammer and chisel, if you are real good, a cutting torche can be used also, but be carefull how deep you cut!!! Ron, oh and you can drill it too!

bvanpelt

Drill it. Replace with bolt & nut.

pws69

I agree - 1/4-20 Grade 5

stinger12

Use grade 8, its worth the extra money.

wro87

Thanks Guys I should have asked about PUTTING the #$@! rivit back in. I can get the old out but what about using rivits to put the ball joint back in (more Original!)? What do you use for that? about grade 8 (alot easier)but could they be too strong(brittle).
WRO87

stinger12

No.

Go Vette Go

I got fake rivets from Bairs Corvettes.

Look Here

Scroll down to the Ball Joint area.

John

pws69

Actually, grade 5 that I suggested is overkill (I prefer to use them), but your could certainly use 8 if you want! The rivets are softer than grade mush bolts!

stinger12

That is true. What I don't understand is why people would install new bolts that are grade 5. Grade 8's are just a little bit more, and are stronger. I guess its preference though. Me, I only install grade 8 bolts, that is unless the application calls for a lower grade bolt.

birdsmith

The reason that solid rivets are used there is because they are a 'hole-filling' fastener, i.e., when they are completely shot they fit very tightly against the wall of their attach holes allowing for no movement within the holes. The only way to properly duplicate this is to replace the new balljoints with the same type rivets. This is done by using a rivet gun with the proper driver or 'set' placed against the rivet head and a 'bucking bar' against the tail. Generally not a job for a novice car mechanic, unless you happen to have experience working on aircraft. If you absolutely must install bolts, they should be grade 8 with a good securing mechanism for the nuts (a lockwasher AND Loctite) and the holes in the control arms should be no more than .001"-.002" larger than the bolts.

pws69

Alllrighty, then!!!

Alan 71

Bird,
Nice explanation!
Regards,
Alan

stinger12

I highly doubt you would be able to accomplish this clearance with a normal drill bit. You would also need shouldered bolts, not fully threaded bolts.

pws69

This is getting way out of control! It's not that critical in the least for goodness sake. I replaced a bunch of them in the past and it's not scientific. Just knock out the old rivets and bolt the new ones in - that's all there is to it. If you are hell-bent on rivets, go for it as long as you get them secured CORRECTLY. For the general wrencher, bolts are a better bet and will outlast the ball joints.

7T1vette

Rivets must be properly squeezed into final position so that the entire hole is filled with rivet material. That means you need to have the proper kind of rivet forming equipment, or the rivet will not hold up. Put in some Grade 8 bolts, nuts, and locking washers. If you really want replacement rivets, take it somewhere that can hammer them in properly or rent the proper equipment. [I'd go with the bolts.]

70454Convert

I bought the rivet set and jig from Zip products and riveted in the ball joints on my lower a-arms using an air hammer.

http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...EB1BB9FA11B450

http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...EB1BB9FA11B450

They came out nice but I was not sure if the rivet expanded in the hole. FORTUNATELY(???) I bent the A-arm pressing in my bushings and had to drill out the rivets to transfer the ball joint to a replacement Arm.

WHen I drilled off the head, I fully expected the rivet shaft to push right out of the hole but IT HAD expanded in the hole in the A-arm and was nice and tight. I had to drill it out just as I had the original factory rivets.

I will admit it took about 2 test runs on an old a-arm to get the technique but the Zip product (Actually sourced from L.I. corvette supply) worked very well. I can now rivet these in about 5 minutes for each rivet in my garage. If you buy the kit and have any questinons, you can PM me.

bwellisley

works well

SH-60B

I used the bolts that came with them.

FB007

Very good. Except you left out the part where you heat them cherry red first, then swedge them, then they tighten up as they cool.