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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 03:55 PM
  #1  
Ken 6645's Avatar
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Default heat on all the time

I've owned this car [ 77 corvette ] for almost 30 years and I have always had a problem with heat coming from the heater even when the temp handle is positioned in the cold temp position and turned off.Is this a common problem for this car[C-3]?? Is there a tip[ or list of tips ] for troubleshooting this problem Also while I'm looking for help,I had a heater relay switch go bad about 10 years ago and could't find one locally so I took the old one in to the NAPA store and matched one up.It was a camaro switch
- 1983 I think And since I don't drive this car but maybe a hundred miles a year, and I don't remember if this problem has always been like this but on high the blower motor dosen't put out a lot of air- like its running on half speed. Is this because of the camaro relay switch or what?????
Thanks for your time
Ken
chantil@adelphia.net
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 04:40 PM
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i had just the opposite on my 79. the heat would not come on. turned out it was the heater valve in line of the heater core. it was stuck closed hense no heat. most likely if you have one that is stuck open always letting coolant flow through and wah-la! heat..
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 05:17 PM
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Is the control valve on the heater hose working?
Is it getiing and vacuum?
If not there is a vac. switch on to of the heater box behind the dash. Don't ask how I know. But follow this it works

http://1-4u-computer-graphics.com/ya...num=1145474576
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Artsvette73
Is the control valve on the heater hose working?
Is it getiing and vacuum?
If not there is a vac. switch on to of the heater box behind the dash. Don't ask how I know. But follow this it works

http://1-4u-computer-graphics.com/ya...num=1145474576
Nice link! Any idea where the new switch came from?
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 05:47 PM
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I have the same problem in my 69 anyone know where that switch is located ina 69
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 05:57 PM
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no switch on a 69, the controller either sends vacuum to the 1 Heater valve, or not.
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Project80
Nice link! Any idea where the new switch came from?
Zips
WWW-239
Used of 68-72 wiper door. The only diffrence is the spring tension and need to be changed to the lighter spring tension.

Last edited by Artsvette73; Aug 25, 2008 at 07:52 PM.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 12:02 AM
  #8  
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There is not guarantee that shutting off the water to the heater will fix your problem. Why? Because you haven't really determined the cause... you just know that there is heat coming out the vents. That heat could be from the engine compartment via leaking into the fresh-air entry at the cowl. I'm just suggesting that there are other possibilities and that you need to do more diagnoses before you start 'fixing' things. [ie., use a big vise-grip to squeeze off the flow in the 'to-heater' line, then drive the car to see if it still gets hot...or not.] If that is the problem you could put a shut-off valve in that line...or just plug-off the heater, if you never really use it.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 06:28 AM
  #9  
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I unplugged the fan relay and this made a slight difference in the amount of heat coming thru the lower vent. I’m going to block off the heater core and see if the heat is coming from the engine compartment. I'm beginning to think that the distribution assembly is where the problem might be, which the last place I wanted to get into ...
More to do I guess
Thanks again
Ken
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 08:00 AM
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I bought that vacuum switch from Ecklers. I had tried different vendors hoping that the spring rate would be lighter but no luck. If you use the spring that comes with the new reproduction vacuum valves there is a good chance that the heater control cable will return past the cold position because of the spring rate of the new valves. That’s when I though of a way to replace the spring in the new valve with the original spring.
There are a couple reasons I would never install a manual valve in the heater hose line.
1. Using a manual globe, ball, or gate valve IMO looks terrible.
2. Without remembering to open the manual valve for any extended period of time will let the heater core dry out and that is when the core will start to decompose from the inside out. You always want to keep the core flooded with coolant.

After fixing the spring issue in the vacuum valve there were other reasons why the heat was entering the cabin. This is also what I found when I dug a little deeper into my interior heat problem.
The vacuum line entering through firewall rubber grommet on the interior side had two little holes in it from chafing (circled red). Even with the two pin holes I had 11 in. vacuum at the inline heater hose vacuum valve, not enough to close it all the way.

Last edited by bmotojoe; Aug 26, 2008 at 08:34 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 08:58 AM
  #11  
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I had the same problem with my 79. The strong spring in the heater control valve would push the control cable to slightly open positon due to the vibration of driving causing the hot water valve to open and also open the heater door. I would have to push the heat control valve to cold every five minutes. I purchased an electric control valve conversion kit from Corvette Clinic, Sanford, Florida and have not had a problem since.
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 09:15 AM
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Also check the fresh air flap under the RH fender. You can reach it through the hole at the rear of the hood down inside the cowl. The vacuum line to this flap was often pinched when installed at the factory causing it not to close.
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