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Hey guys. I have a Nitrous question. I've never fooled with it before but I'm toying with the idea when I finish my '69 Coupe rebuild. Everything I've read says you activate the Nitrous ONLY at WOT. How does this apply when you are running a manual transmission? Does that mean WOT in any gear or WOT only when you wind out 4th gear? Just not too keen on the idea of sending everything up in smoke by using the stuff in a wrong manner. Thanks in advance.
Hey guys. I have a Nitrous question. I've never fooled with it before but I'm toying with the idea when I finish my '69 Coupe rebuild. Everything I've read says you activate the Nitrous ONLY at WOT. How does this apply when you are running a manual transmission? Does that mean WOT in any gear or WOT only when you wind out 4th gear? Just not too keen on the idea of sending everything up in smoke by using the stuff in a wrong manner. Thanks in advance.
There is a switch that activates the solenoids (usually on the carb)at wide open throttle.So yes you would have nitrous available in all 4 gears.You also have a manual switch to overide the carb switch....you can bring the nitrous in at any time usually 2,3 and 4.
Or, wire the switches in SERIES. Nitrous should only used at WOT. That is the carb switch. Then, manual switch would allow you to select when you wanted the Nitrous. Do NOT use nitrous at less than WOT unless you like broken parts. Also, look into an RPM switch so the nitrous only comes in at say 3000 rpm or higher.
Thanks Tom. I was mistaken.
Last edited by SteveG75; Aug 29, 2008 at 11:59 PM.
Or, wire the switches in parallel. Nitrous should only used at WOT. That is the carb switch. Then, manual switch would allow you to select when you wanted the Nitrous. Do NOT use nitrous at less than WOT unless you like broken parts. Also, look into an RPM switch so the nitrous only comes in at say 3000 rpm or higher.
just a clarification on terminology.
I think you meant to say " wire the switches in series " configuration.
(This ensures that N2O only is activated when both the manual switch AND the WOT switch are closed.)
Wiring the manual switch in parallel will effectively overide the WOT switch and cause a disaster if switched on under other than WOT conditions... (such as idling!)
I think you meant to say " wire the switches in series "
Jeeze sure made a mess of that,let me try again.
Let me clarify my above statement.I wasnt very clear.I did not mean you could overide the carb switch to bring the nitrous in before wide open throttle.When I said overide I meant you could keep the nitrous from coming in in the lower gears even though the carb switch was tripped.
Good diagram here. Basically arm switch controls when you want nitrous (you could also use a momentary switch as well), and the WOT microswitch ensures that it only happens at WOT. I also like the fuel pressure switch on the nitrous solenoid. That way, if you lose fuel pressure the nitrous shuts off. Lean + nitrous = big explosions.
Good diagram here. Basically arm switch controls when you want nitrous (you could also use a momentary switch as well), and the WOT microswitch ensures that it only happens at WOT. I also like the fuel pressure switch on the nitrous solenoid. That way, if you lose fuel pressure the nitrous shuts off. Lean + nitrous = big explosions.
Excellent diagram, make sure to install safety switches on main fuel line and nitrous fuel line so if ether one drops pressure it shuts the system off avoiding any possible damage. Using throttle activating switch (only at WOT) I would recommend MSD Rpm window switch part -121-8956 coast $92.99 in Jagz magazine, that way you can control at what RPM you want NOS activated and shut off on launch and shifts. Typically if you have your motor rev chip say at 7000rpm you want to dis activate NOS at 6900 RPM's so you don't rev NOS against your engine rev limiter. In most cases, the NOS will carry it over the REV chip and thats a .
This is a great safety future especially for stick shift in case you miss gear or dont shift on time. Mine is set to come on 3000rpm and shut off 6800rpm, my engine rev chip is at 7000rpm and my shift light is at 6600.
Im using the throttle activating switch.
Thanks for the help guys. I'm sure this will all make sense once I get into the actual installation, which as I mentioned before, is likely to be a little ways down the road. When that happens, I'm sure I'll be posting other questions for you guys on this topic. Thanks again. I appreciate it.
I have a 2004 11.1 secound srt-4 with a 100 shot,and a 60 trim turbo.
Im looking at 200 pill .u think thats safe for the pistons??? I just got this car,so i dont know the limits yet.... I do know it has a new summitt engine installed seven years ago .and today the engine only has 3000 miles on it.
I've never used nitrous either, and after reading the replies I have another question. If its set to come on at WOT and you end up feathering the throttle to maintain traction, is the nitrous going to be switching on and off? Or do you have it kick in after you're in 3rd or 4th gear?
I've never used nitrous either, and after reading the replies I have another question. If its set to come on at WOT and you end up feathering the throttle to maintain traction, is the nitrous going to be switching on and off? Or do you have it kick in after you're in 3rd or 4th gear?
Thanks,
Bob
Nitrous will only switch in when throttle is wide open (right foot flat to the floor!)
If you feather the throttle, no nitrous.. obviously.
And you're correct.
If you don't have traction in first or second gear when on the laughing gas, then you would engage it in the next gear.. hence the need for the override series cutout switch, usually located on the gear lever in easy access.
If you are setup with decent sticky tyres, strong (unbreakable) driveline and suspension.... or you don't mind travelling sideways, you engage it in 1st gear, maybe just after launch, and hang on!