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Need professional advice on gear ratios

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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 09:10 PM
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Default Need professional advice on gear ratios

My 68 has an M20 4 speed with 336 gears in the rear and on the interstates it seems like it needs to shift to a higher gear. I want to take the stock rearend out and put it in storage and replace it with a rear with higher gears. I'm looking more for gas economy on the highway and I realize it will also make 1st 2nd and 3rd higher and I'm looking for the right rear ratio that will still have reasonable power for starting out in 1st gear and less engine reving in 4th. Has anyone experimented with this ? I would be interested in hearing what combinations you are running if you are running a 4 speed and don't notice a lot of engine reving in 4th.

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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bj1k
I would be interested in hearing what combinations you are running if you are running a 4 speed and don't notice a lot of engine reving in 4th.

I don't have a 4 speed. My '73 is an auto with 3.08s. But I don't think you can get where you want with just a gear swap. I've got the same issue and swapping gears to lower highway RPMs will not give me much of a launch. The only answer for me is a an OD tranny, preferably one with a better 1st and 2nd for launch.

I think your best option is to keep the 3.36s and swap the tranny for a 5 speed.

DC
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 11:20 PM
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What RPM are you turning at 60 or 70?

I agree, you won't be happy with the 1st and 2nd gear performance if you go with anything higher than 3.36. Those seem to be a good compromise of performance and mileage.

I also agree that you should consider an overdrive trans. With my T56 I am getting between 25 and 27 MPG with cruising RPM on the highway under 2000.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 02:00 AM
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IMHO 3.36:1 is as tall as I'd go behind an M20, and suggest leaving the diff as is and getting a TKO. If such a mod is out of the question, you'll either have to leave things be or decide if better highway economy is worth sacrificing performance, as you just can't improve both by simply changing to a 3.08:1 FDR. I'd re-evaluate your priorities before proceeding...
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 03:28 AM
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Originally Posted by bj1k
My 68 has an M20 4 speed with 336 gears in the rear and on the interstates it seems like it needs to shift to a higher gear. I want to take the stock rearend out and put it in storage and replace it with a rear with higher gears. I'm looking more for gas economy on the highway and I realize it will also make 1st 2nd and 3rd higher and I'm looking for the right rear ratio that will still have reasonable power for starting out in 1st gear and less engine reving in 4th. Has anyone experimented with this ? I would be interested in hearing what combinations you are running if you are running a 4 speed and don't notice a lot of engine reving in 4th.
My '68 L36 427 has M21 4 speed and 3.08 axle. I find that is OK for normal use, 70 mph cruise is 2650 rpm, fine I suppose but a resonable balance with the 'tall' first gear. This axle and gearbox really works well with my car (and even better still now I have put a 489 in!) The car will obviously 'pull' a even lower set of gearbox/axle ratios and I have looked some of the aftermarket 5 and 6 speed gearboxes and my opinion is that the 1st and 2nd gear ratios ratios are probably closer to the stock ratios of a M20 gearbox and best suited to a car with limited low-end torque (like a small block or maybe a more radical cammed big block) and then you have the benefit of overdrive 5th and 6th gear. You will be cruising at 1800/2000 rpm.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 08:41 AM
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The only other gears to use would be 308 or 273's. I set up a 273 for my buddy who has a ST-10 with 2.64 first gear and he loves it. The Muncie is 2.54 if I recall so it might be a slug off the line. If you have a BB then you might get by, a SB you'll probably be riding the clutch starting out.
As the others said, an OD is probably going to be the way to get you in RPM range you want. The question is, is it worth $3500 to you? The M-20 336 setup is a very good one but then gas was .30 a gallon then too.
I'm running a 336 in my TH400 72 instead of the 308. There is not much RPM difference between them, maybe 250-300 RPM.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 09:19 AM
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IMO, in a light car like these, any swap of only a 10% gear change is not worth it, go for the overdrive, but to stick with a stick you going to have to spend bux.....years ago I did a swap over to automatic on account of price and left the 336 ratio alone, my car was a Muncie also....I wound up with a 200 4r that I built in there now, and it's fine....cruise at 80 roughly 2300 rpms.....I have a <400 hp 355 roller engine.....so get 22.2222 mpg at 90mph cruise we FLY here in Florida....

I think the 200 is the way to go, and it's not that big a deal to swap over, basically a bolt in costing some 600 bux total IF you can do your own rebuild......

I got a core for 60 bux, then a pump, converter, TRANS GO shift kit (NO OTHER), and soft parts kit and TCC solenoid as an afterthought.. and it's been fine....
did my own rebuild in the garage here which took me two days, but I learned from the ATSG book and so can YOU.....

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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 10:23 AM
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If you are a 'casual' driver [don't care about drag racing the car, etc.] and do lots of highway driving but not much 'city' driving, put a 2.73 rear end in the car. If you need to do a lot of stop-start, city driving, leave the rear end alone and just spend a little more at the pump when you go on the road. You can't financially justify the expense and trouble of installing an overdrive tranny in your car unless you buy a salvaged 200R and do the rebuild and installation yourself.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 11:49 AM
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Great thread. I was contemplating the same issue yesterday. I have a '79 3 spd auto with a 3.55 rear end. HP was down to 195 that year in the L48 and I'm sure GM was trying to get some acceleration out of the meager HP.

The problem is I cruise at 2800 rpm at 60 mph in the '79. Not acceptable to me. My '08 cpe cruises at 1500 rpm at 60 mph, 2.73 axle and has 436 hp with 28 mpg. I was thinking about putting the original engine in the basement and putting in a 350/300 hp crate motor in and changing out the rear end for something else.

Last edited by Bobz08C6; Aug 29, 2008 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 12:12 PM
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Bobz08c6 - You are comparing apples to oranges. Your 08 has 4.02 first gear and the 79 trans has a 2.52 first gear.

2.73 in the 08 would be the same as 4.35 in the 79. If you drop those same 2.73's in the 79 it would be a total slug, even if you had the 430Hp of your LS3. Not only is first more punchy in the 08, but 6th is .67. That is the same as running a 1.8 rear end with your 79. Thats why you are getting 28 mpg.

Back to the original poster, If you don't want an overdrive, you are going to have to sacrifice somewhere. Either you have good off the line performance or you have low cruising RPM's and better gas mileage. 3.36 was the factory compromise. Changing that will affect something negatively.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
IMHO 3.36:1 is as tall as I'd go behind an M20, and suggest leaving the diff as is and getting a TKO. If such a mod is out of the question, you'll either have to leave things be or decide if better highway economy is worth sacrificing performance, as you just can't improve both by simply changing to a 3.08:1 FDR. I'd re-evaluate your priorities before proceeding...
Agree with this suggestion. The TKO is more money and time ( if you can install yourself) but definately the long term solution. I grin like a skunk with a head cold every time I slide it into 5th and cruise at 20mpg.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 02:03 PM
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He has a 200 hp engine with a 3000 pound car. It may not get off the line like a [normal] Corvette, but it won't stall from lack of torque. If the guy wants a highway cruiser that will get decent mileage...and doesn't care about 'killer' acceleration from a dead start, why do you care?
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bj1k
My 68 has an M20 4 speed with 336 gears in the rear and on the interstates it seems like it needs to shift to a higher gear. I want to take the stock rearend out and put it in storage and replace it with a rear with higher gears. I'm looking more for gas economy on the highway and I realize it will also make 1st 2nd and 3rd higher and I'm looking for the right rear ratio that will still have reasonable power for starting out in 1st gear and less engine reving in 4th. Has anyone experimented with this ? I would be interested in hearing what combinations you are running if you are running a 4 speed and don't notice a lot of engine reving in 4th.
I don't expect anybody to listen but once your going over 25-30 mph it doesn't much matter what your rear end ratio is(for street driving)

Your motor TQ is what causes you to accelerate. I have an M-21 equiped 67 camero that has had a 2.73 for over 20 years. It's kind of a bog or burn off the line. but once it is rolling, big nice gear spreads.

My Vette with 5 speed OD comes out to like having a 2.56 or something rear gear. I put it in 5th @55 and drive i never have to down shift even going over 9000 foot mountain passes or passing somebody

I drove a car a couple of weeks ago that could go 60-70 mph in first gear with a tiny flywheel and light weight multi disk racing clutch. it sucked getting moving, but the closed ratio was really nice.

doesn't any of these companies still sell complete pumpkins for about $1500 or less?
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
IMO, in a light car like these, any swap of only a 10% gear change is not worth it, go for the overdrive, but to stick with a stick you going to have to spend bux.....years ago I did a swap over to automatic on account of price and left the 336 ratio alone, my car was a Muncie also....I wound up with a 200 4r that I built in there now, and it's fine....cruise at 80 roughly 2300 rpms.....I have a <400 hp 355 roller engine.....so get 22.2222 mpg at 90mph cruise we FLY here in Florida....

I think the 200 is the way to go, and it's not that big a deal to swap over, basically a bolt in costing some 600 bux total IF you can do your own rebuild......

I got a core for 60 bux, then a pump, converter, TRANS GO shift kit (NO OTHER), and soft parts kit and TCC solenoid as an afterthought.. and it's been fine....
did my own rebuild in the garage here which took me two days, but I learned from the ATSG book and so can YOU.....

What is this ATSG book, and does it kinda explain how to swap over from, say, a 4 speed super T-10 to a TKO, and if it DOES give such explanations and knowledge, where can I buy it?
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DC3
I don't have a 4 speed. My '73 is an auto with 3.08s. But I don't think you can get where you want with just a gear swap. I've got the same issue and swapping gears to lower highway RPMs will not give me much of a launch. The only answer for me is a an OD tranny, preferably one with a better 1st and 2nd for launch.

I think your best option is to keep the 3.36s and swap the tranny for a 5 speed.

DC
It is my understanding that would just give me an extra gear in between and that that the highest gear would still be 1 to 1 ratio.
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 70 LS1
What RPM are you turning at 60 or 70?

I agree, you won't be happy with the 1st and 2nd gear performance if you go with anything higher than 3.36. Those seem to be a good compromise of performance and mileage.

I also agree that you should consider an overdrive trans. With my T56 I am getting between 25 and 27 MPG with cruising RPM on the highway under 2000.
Don't know, the tach gear needs replaced . Going to rebuild the distributor this winter.
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by bj1k
My 68 has an M20 4 speed with 336 gears in the rear and on the interstates it seems like it needs to shift to a higher gear. I want to take the stock rearend out and put it in storage and replace it with a rear with higher gears. I'm looking more for gas economy on the highway and I realize it will also make 1st 2nd and 3rd higher and I'm looking for the right rear ratio that will still have reasonable power for starting out in 1st gear and less engine reving in 4th. Has anyone experimented with this ? I would be interested in hearing what combinations you are running if you are running a 4 speed and don't notice a lot of engine reving in 4th.
Hi, I have a 78 4spd. with 3:36's and I replaced my tranny with a Tremec 5 spd. conversion kit. It's pricey, but strong. The kit comes with everything including driveshaft, mounts, etc. I didn't have to cut anything out- it just bolted in and the shifter is in the original spot and looks stock. I replaced my 3:36's with 3:73's and with that 5th gear I run at about 2200 rpm at 65mph. I also hated how my past 4 spd. revved to 3500-4000 rpm on the highway, so I did something about it. Hope that helps...Daddybugs out.
P.S. here's the link: www.classicchevy5speed.com
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 02:15 AM
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FYI, these examples should give you a better idea of what various manual OD transmissions could do for you. The top lines are gearset ratios, and the bottom lines are those multiplied by your current 3.36:1 FDR; the larger numbers representing more torque multiplication and the smaller ones less...


Muncie M20 & 21 (wide) ratios:
2.52 1.88 1.47 1.00
8.47 6.32 4.94 3.36

Muncie OD (tho I don't suggest this gearset) ratios:
2.20 1.64 1.00 0.87
7.39 5.51 3.36 2.92

TKO 600 ratios:
2.87 1.89 1.28 1.00 0.64
9.64 6.35 4.30 3.36 2.15

TKO 600-RR (my personal preference) ratios:
2.87 1.89 1.28 1.00 0.82
9.64 6.35 4.30 3.36 2.76

Richmond OD ratios:
2.89 1.85 1.31 1.00 0.77
9.71 6.22 4.40 3.36 2.59

T56 ratios:
2.66 1.78 1.30 1.00 0.74 0.50
8.94 5.98 4.37 3.36 2.49 1.68

Using the formula below you can plug in the lower numbers to calculate RPMs for given speeds in whatever gear with your current 3.36:1 FDR.

RPM = (MPH x Gear Ratio x 336) / Tire Diameter

(Note that the 336 in the formula has noting to do with your FDR.)

Hope that helps.

Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Aug 30, 2008 at 02:24 AM.
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 07:22 AM
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bj
what is the hurry? take the scenic route, avoid the interstate.
scenic is a more enjoyable trip.

Last edited by Matt Gruber; Aug 30, 2008 at 07:28 AM.
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 10:06 PM
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Thanks to everyone . This gives me something to think about.
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