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I had hydraboost installed w/stk brakes and Hawk pads. The brakes are much more constant, but still take more pedal pressure that I think they should.
BTW: The Hydraboost was installed by best shop in town.
I'm wondering if my crappy PS pump is holding things up w/low pressure or some other malfunction? What else could be the problem? TIA
This matter is probably best answered by DurangoBoy. He's a Hydroboost guru. I plan to go the same route as you with the Hyrdoboost brakes and will be interested to hear more about this and the comments that hopefully will follow.
What makes you say the pump is crappy?? does the steering work good?? or is it sluggish at idle, indicating not much pressure?? or does the fluid look and smell good, not burnt??
or full of metallic filings like metalllic paint??
HB normall stops these cars on a dime, and completely cures that squshey pedal to the floor type action ....so you say it's still that a way?? or just that the pedal is too hard to stop the car but very firm in the feel?? the touch of the pedal is a bit heavier than the old vacuum boosters, but still easy enough to put you into the steering wheel on a good stop....
I went from manual brakes to the HB system. The first time I hit the HB brakes I almost kissed the windshield. The pedal effort was greatly reduced and as said above it is a different feel from vacuum. It is a more positive feel but it should not require a lot of pedal pressure.
I had hydraboost installed w/stk brakes and Hawk pads. The brakes are much more constant, but still take more pedal pressure that I think they should.
BTW: The Hydraboost was installed by best shop in town.
I'm wondering if my crappy PS pump is holding things up w/low pressure or some other malfunction? What else could be the problem? TIA
Ricisan
What master was used and what vehicle did the Hydro come out of?
The HB was a gp on this forum. The pump is an old stk one. It seems a little sluggish at idle and it leaks a bit. I haven't driven the Vette much lately so I can't comment on how it should be. I can lock the wheels, but the pedal seems too hard compared to my dd truck. The MC is a rebuild that has been on for awhile. I would like a little more brake w/little less pressure.
Could this be the ps pump and mc being less than perfect? TIA
The HB was a gp on this forum. The pump is an old stk one. It seems a little sluggish at idle and it leaks a bit. I haven't driven the Vette much lately so I can't comment on how it should be. I can lock the wheels, but the pedal seems too hard compared to my dd truck. The MC is a rebuild that has been on for awhile. I would like a little more brake w/little less pressure.
Could this be the ps pump and mc being less than perfect? TIA
Ricisan
I was kind of fishing for the year of the master and the year or model the Hydro came off of. Certain years needed different masters.
Also, your symptoms sound like a bad master or poor pressure. Can you please explain how the return line is plumbed from the hydro, how does it meet the stock return from the valve, and then to the pump reservoir. Which 'T's into which.
The HB was a gp on this forum. The pump is an old stk one. It seems a little sluggish at idle and it leaks a bit. I haven't driven the Vette much lately so I can't comment on how it should be. I can lock the wheels, but the pedal seems too hard compared to my dd truck. The MC is a rebuild that has been on for awhile. I would like a little more brake w/little less pressure.
Could this be the ps pump and mc being less than perfect? TIA
Ricisan
your profile says you have a 74. if you used the mc that was on it it is the wrong one. you need a mc from a 77 ( i believe) because the bore is different.
your profile says you have a 74. if you used the mc that was on it it is the wrong one. you need a mc from a 77 ( i believe) because the bore is different.
Exactly, however, he may not have used his stock master...which is why I was hoping he knew what year it came from or was for.
The MC was a rebuilt installed by the shop. I'm sorry I don't have more info. I let the best shop in town do my alignment/brakes. Can you give me some info so I can find out what I have?
The MC was a rebuilt installed by the shop. I'm sorry I don't have more info. I let the best shop in town do my alignment/brakes. Can you give me some info so I can find out what I have?
Ricisan
Really the only way to find out if the master matches to the Hydro properly is to separate them, and check the snout of the master and make sure it's not a problem. I recall some Hydros require a long snout master too, but if a short snout master is used then the pin inside is not pre-loaded and ready.
Do you have a problem separating the master from the Hydro? You might be able to do it without removing the brake lines. I will just need a measurement from the Hydro's mounting flange to the pin, and a measurement from the master's mounting flange to the dimple of the piston. Those two should be very close in measurement.
Go to Hydratech braking and read their forums for some more info. You'll find the difference from the 77 and later to the earlier type MCs and why they dont work with the Astro HB unit used in teh C3 conversion.
Also there is a good change your shop was unfamiliar with this install and didnt make the conversion with all the correct parts. It's a little bit of tribal knowledge and the trial and error of others before you.
Your pedal, if done right, should have about less than 1 inch of travel and once you hit the end of that travel, your brakes will grab nicely. You should then be able to modulate the braking force by how much foot pressure you apply to the now end of travel brake pedal.
I remember them showing me how the snout did not match, that ment a new MC. The shop does big trucks so I know HB is nothing new to them. The rebuilt MC could still be sub par and causing problems.
The ps pump is the oldest part in the system. I will check on the amount of pedal travel. It feels like more than 1 inch!
Thanks for all the help.
Since the PS pump is the easiest to fix and the oldest part of the system, what does it take to rebuild one? Is there an upgrade possible?
The PS pump cap is very difficult to get off. I had to trim much of the cap sides and some of the dipstick to get it out. Is there something better? TIA