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my 72 is giving me probs, i replaced all calipers, new brake booster..
my pedal is frim,when the car is off, but as soon as i turn the car on,the pedal goes to the floor.we put a new master clyinder in her five years ago...and all this time its been sitting ,can it go bad just sitting in the car five years....should i buy another one???
my 72 is giving me probs, i replaced all calipers, new brake booster..
my pedal is frim,when the car is off, but as soon as i turn the car on,the pedal goes to the floor.we put a new master clyinder in her five years ago...and all this time its been sitting ,can it go bad just sitting in the car five years....should i buy another one???
You still have air in the system. Needs a good bleeding.
If it has regular DOT 3 brake fluid, the bore of the M/C will be rusty/pitted if it's been sitting 5 years. Pull it off and see what it looks like inside (then go buy a new one).
well how do u guys bleed the brakes,i have someone push the brake for me,while im opening and closing the bleeder
Yes, the old pump it up, hold it down, open and close the bleeder without your helper taking their foot off the pedal procedure has been around for a long time. Without a helper around, I open the bleeder and let gravity help me. When flushing a system, I use a pressure bleeder which takes more setup time but, it works really well.
I have read some other posts that said that if your peddle is hard when the car is off then goes soft when the car is on that the rod that comes out of the power booster may be too long . it should be adjustable.
If the brakes are firm when car is off, but then soft when car is on, it means that it's most likely NOT your power booster, as the brakes being soft while the booster is working, but hard when it's not on, is a sign.
Another easy way to check is to run the car for a minute, shut it off, then unplug the hose on the power booster. If air rushes out, that means it pretty much works. All it is is a pressure tank.
I'd say just bleed your system. Also, if the MC has sat all those years, you'll probably need a new one.
If you replace the master cylinder, be sure to bench bleed it. It's very hard to get all the air out of them once on the car.
Take your time, and bench bleed it properly.
I think, in the past 4 days or so, there have been something like 6 threads all dealing with brake woes, most of them stemming from not bleeding them properly.
You fill it with fluid, then connect tubes to the two out spouts, and run that tube back into the MC, so you don't run out of brake fluid.
Then, get the thing in a table vise, and stick a phillips head inside, and press on it till it goes in about an inch or so. This pumps the fluid through, and works out air bubbles. I also sat mine over night, and tapped on the bottom periodically through out the day, to make SURE there were bubbles. With brakes, I am of the mind that you can never be too ****.