78 Front Brakes
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Munster IN
78 Front Brakes
I am going to replace the both front calipers (left one is leaking) and thought it may be a good idea to change the brake hoses as long as I am in there. My question is when it is time to bleed the new front brakes do I need to also bleed the rears? And is there any special sequence when bleeding them?
Le Mans Master
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From: Brazos TX
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You shouldn't need to bleed the rears but if it hasn't been done within the past two years then it would be a good idea to do so. The sequence is to bleed the caliper that is the farthest from the master cylinder first and progressively work your way closer. So that would be the Pass. side rear, then Driver's side rear, then Pass. side front and Driver's side front. Get yourself a mytivac and bleeding them by yourself is a breeze.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._391590_391590
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._391590_391590
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Lewisburg WV
thegazman
Follow Burners suggestion. When I did mine I first cleaner out he mastercylinder and put fresh, clear fliud in it and then bleed all the brakes until the fluid was clear at the wheels. That way you have clean fresh fluid in your entire system. Good maintenance program. Of course you have to add fluid as you go.
Le Mans Master
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From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Changing the front brake lines "while your there" is a good idea.
You should bleed the rears "while your at it". The rear tires will have to be off as they have inner and outer bleeds on each wheel.
You will get better results if you start closest to the master cylinder.
Left front than right front
than left rear inner than left rear outer
than right rear inner than right rear outer. PG.
You should bleed the rears "while your at it". The rear tires will have to be off as they have inner and outer bleeds on each wheel.
You will get better results if you start closest to the master cylinder.
Left front than right front
than left rear inner than left rear outer
than right rear inner than right rear outer. PG.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Lafayette, Indiana
St. Jude Donor '05-'08
I would agree with all except for one thing, the mytivac. Maybe it was just me, but I couldn't never get it to work the best. I'd always end up put a few bubbles back in the lines. I go with the "person sits in the driver's seat, pumps the break pedal, and holds while you bleed" method. It takes to people, but I personally get better results.
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Le Mans Master
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From: Brazos TX
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Dot 3 is spec'd but Dot 4 will work as well and it has a higher boiling point. I use the mytivac on all my cars and I bleed the brakes after every visit to the race track. I've had good results with it. I just pull a vacuum on it before I close the bleeder screw. If it is still sucking as the bleeder is closed then you are good.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Up-grade to DOT-4. Its compatible and has a higher boiling point like was previously stated!!
BE CAREFUL. Do not get any brake fluid on your paint. It will take the finish off STAT!!!
Use a SIX point BOX END WRENCH on the bleeder valves and I highly recommend soaking them in PB Blaster over night before removing them. If they don't come loose easily, be careful,,,because they can wring off. I busted one of my front ones off
and the caliper was a stainless sleeved caliper!
I had a machinist drill out the hole and insert a repair bleeder. Worked like a champ. 
I used a little heat on the other ones that were tough to break loose and was successful!
BE CAREFUL. Do not get any brake fluid on your paint. It will take the finish off STAT!!!
Use a SIX point BOX END WRENCH on the bleeder valves and I highly recommend soaking them in PB Blaster over night before removing them. If they don't come loose easily, be careful,,,because they can wring off. I busted one of my front ones off
and the caliper was a stainless sleeved caliper! I had a machinist drill out the hole and insert a repair bleeder. Worked like a champ. I used a little heat on the other ones that were tough to break loose and was successful!
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Munster IN
Thanks for all the info. One last question on where to buy the calipers. I have read on here that autozone was good. The car is more of a daily driver and I don't plan on it being all original. I live in Northwest Indiana and there are a lot of good parts houses. Any insight will be helpful.
Tech Contributor
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
There are a number of ways you can go. I know Autozone and Advance Auto Parts both sell them.
You can also purchase stainless steel sleeved calipers from VetteBrakes. There worry free for the daily driver type car.
If your savvy you can rebuild your calipers. Disassemble them, hone them out and see hows the boars look. Advance sells the seal kits for front an rear calipers.
Bill
You can also purchase stainless steel sleeved calipers from VetteBrakes. There worry free for the daily driver type car.
If your savvy you can rebuild your calipers. Disassemble them, hone them out and see hows the boars look. Advance sells the seal kits for front an rear calipers.
Bill
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,970
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From: Cameron Park CA
Lot of good tips above, esp. using Speed Bleeders. One more tip that will ease the bleeding: Using a turkey baster, or other type suction tool, remove the old, dirty brake fluid from the master cyl., then top off the M/C with fresh brake fluid. That way you won't be forcing that old stuff through the lines and calipers. It'll shorten the time to get the clean fluid where you want it.
Cheers,
Pete
Cheers,
Pete