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I'm in Wisconsin and a friend of mine indicated that I can get the recharge kit for my AC at Wal-mart by going across the border to Illinois. That said, is there anything else special I need? Someone else told me that I would have to convert the fitting or something from the original?
I'm in Wisconsin and a friend of mine indicated that I can get the recharge kit for my AC at Wal-mart by going across the border to Illinois. That said, is there anything else special I need? Someone else told me that I would have to convert the fitting or something from the original?
Thanks for any input.
What year is your Corvette? It sounds like you are talking about an R134a retrofit kit sold at Wal-mart.
The factory '79 used R-134a? Has the car been retrofitted for R-134a? You can't just stick that stuff in an R-12 system. You can still get your R-12 system charged up by a certified A/C repair place.
The factory '79 used R-134a? Has the car been retrofitted for R-134a? You can't just stick that stuff in an R-12 system. You can still get your R-12 system charged up by a certified A/C repair place.
Really? Where? Not where I live. You cannot buy R12 anymore. Seems this project will have to wait. I am likely just going to take it in and have it professionally evacuated and retrofitted, then filled with the r134a. I have no way of evacuating it myself, else I would do it myself.
The factory '79 used R-134a? Has the car been retrofitted for R-134a? You can't just stick that stuff in an R-12 system. You can still get your R-12 system charged up by a certified A/C repair place.
Really? Where? Not where I live. You cannot buy R12 anymore. Seems this project will have to wait. I am likely just going to take it in and have it professionally evacuated and retrofitted, then filled with the r134a. I have no way of evacuating it myself, else I would do it myself.
How deep of a vacuum to you need to draw? A $20 hand pump will draw at least 25" Hg, and a MiteyVac will probably do more than that. I've got to think that's close to as good as what the shop will use...
(Not saying you're wrong, 'cause I've never used it. But maybe?)
I've looked at their products already and every other forum I have googled on the subject requires you still evacuate the system. I even looked at that freeze-12 stuff, and it still requires you evacuate as well.
Originally Posted by yel76low
How deep of a vacuum to you need to draw? A $20 hand pump will draw at least 25" Hg, and a MiteyVac will probably do more than that. I've got to think that's close to as good as what the shop will use...
Where exactly am I going to find something like that that fits on the fitting?
I guess I fear doing damage to the system more than I do the excessive heat and larger bill at the mechanic.
A proper filling of the A/C system requires a nearly complete vacuum be applied to the system lines for a significant period of time [an hour or more] in order to get ALL the moisture, etc. out of the system components. A hand vacuum won't get that job done. Take it to an A/C service place. If you just can't get R-12 in Wisconsin {state law maybe???...trying to go "green"??}, go to Illinois, etc. If you do a "Bubba"-job on your A/C system, it will cost you big buck$.
How deep of a vacuum to you need to draw? A $20 hand pump will draw at least 25" Hg, and a MiteyVac will probably do more than that. I've got to think that's close to as good as what the shop will use...
If you have R-12 you need to convert to R134a. Replacing all the necessary components, flushing, evacuating and charging the system is not cheap. It can be done however if you have some mechanical ability and the right tools.
If you don't flush the system with A/C flush in a pressurized can and replace the necessary components you will back to having a non functioning A/C system.
The vacuum pump should be capable of sucking close to one atmosphere or somewhere near 28-29 in Hg.
R-12 Freon is still available but somewhat expensive. Most places however want to see your certificate before selling it to you. I've seen some on Ebay for about $20.00 per can and you'll need about 2 to 3 cans. Check the fitting on your high and low side to see if it's still R-12 or R-134a. If it's been converted professionally that it should have mention of it somewhere under the hood.
Given you live in WI and really don't need/use your AC that often, just go to Autozone and buy the $35 kit and be done with it. The R12 has probably leaked out entirely, and if it hasn't, take it to an shop and have it evacuated...then follow the instructions on the kit. You don't have to replace all your other parts right now. Its not mandatory that you evacuate 100% of the air out either. I know this because I retrofitted my girlfriends IROCZ and my 89 GMC Jimmy with Autozone kits over 2 years ago and they are both still blowing cold (and I live in Austin, Texas). Does it blow as cold as the R12, no...Did I evacuate all the air out? probably not...Does it work? Yes.
How deep of a vacuum to you need to draw? A $20 hand pump will draw at least 25" Hg, and a MiteyVac will probably do more than that. I've got to think that's close to as good as what the shop will use...
That looks like it is exactly what you'd need: 28.3" Hg vacuum and has connections for R-12 and R-134a. But I don't see a cost in the link, am I missing something?
To convert you first have to flush the system to remove the old oil. It is not compatable with R134a. You may have to replacethe hoses becouse thay are too porus and the o-rings are not compatable. Then you have to pull a very high vacuum before charging. This is assuming you found the leaks that caused you to loose the freon in the first place.
I am recharging my system with r12. You can get a MACS certificate after taking a test for $15.
I tried to reuse my old hoses and the 134a just leaked right back out. 134a is not as dense as r12 and will leak out of a smaller hole. One of the main reasons you have to run a vacuum pump for so long is that moisture will boil at a lower temp if it is in a vacuum. I do a little HVAC work and Freon and water are very corrosive when mixed and form an acid. If I'm working on a big system and it has been open for a while I will run a vacuum pump overnight. We also don't like to open up a system if it has been raining and the relative humidity is high. You can actually see steam coming out of the vacuum pump especially if the system has been open for a while. After the vacuum is complete I shut the valves off on the gages and let it sit for a while to see if it will hold the vacuum. That is one of the best indications that there is no leak so you don't charge your system just to find out it is not sealed and have to spend more money on freon. My problem is that I like to "weigh in" my freon instead of charging it according to pressure because the pressure varies according to outside temps. or under the hood temps. and I don't know how much 134a is used to replace r12. I hope this helps.
(Not saying you're wrong, 'cause I've never used it. But maybe?)
From that website -
Do I need to retrofit before recharging?
If your car is a 1994 or earlier model, you probably have an R-12 A/C system (a system that uses R-12 refrigerant) and need to retrofit before recharging with R-134a refrigerant. Check under the hood for a label indicating whether the system is R-12 or R-134a.