So now that I'm out of school, I want to do a full body off. But I already did the engine and tranny a few years ago and those won't be touched. I'm assuming my body off will take up to 4 or 5 years depending on what life throughs my way.

My question is, how should I store the engine and tranny so that I don't ruin them? I know just having them sit is the worst thing you can do to them. If I turn the crank every now and then, can I circulate enough oil to keep seals wet? Drain a little oil and recycle it into the heads every now and then? What do you guys think?

 

My 2 cents
Loosen rockers to let valve springs relax
pour some mystery oil into spark plug holes and good to go!

Just prim the oil pump with a drill into distributor hole before you fire the thing back up


Others my have techniques too

 

Would the oil stay at a constant level the entire time? Would you still turn the engine every now and then to wet the cylinder walls? What about valve seals and keeping them from drying out?

 

The oil on top of the pistons would do the trick. That stuff is used for storing snow mobiles in summer and jet skis in winter.

U can alway pop the valve cover and pour on the valves
Basically normal oil (and even worse synthetic) will drip intot he pan leaving parts uncoated. the thick storage stuff coats and sticks.

Make some smoke when buring it off so don't fill the cyclinders just enought to coat

You can get a socket and turn the crank on your motor every month if you want just make sure but the key is coating them in the beginning.
Turning the crank will not wet the cylinder walls
The best bet is to get the tool that fits to your drill and remove distributor and stickit in and turn it once in a while. It'll pump oil all over as if it is runnning... EASY and CHEAP

How long you plannin on leaving the patient open during surgery?

 

Is this the stuff you're referring to?

http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/

 

Sorry if that went over my head, but are you referring to the engine? If I'm not pouring oil on the cylinder heads, it will stay sealed. As far as having the car apart, I guess that depends on finances and time I can afford to commit to it. Probably a few years.

 

That duration of storage can really be tough. The problem isn't as much environmental factors as the reality that oil breaks down over time.

The OEM-style fuel pump should be considered a throwaway/replace item - it just won't survive storage for that long IMHO. The carb should be removed, drained, sprayed with your choice of WD-40 or LPS3 and bagged along with the fuel lines.

For the engine, drain the oil, spray the engine externally with a thin oil film and block off all entries with tape. Buy some engine storage plugs to keep moisture out of the bores. IMHO, I would not spray oil in the bores - it's just going to turn to gunk. Then bag it and leave it. Tossing in a few dessicant bags is always a good idea as well.

Figure on overhauling the carb and then doing some lube and careful turning over of the engine before the start.

I would not turn over the engine or touch it once it's bagged. There will be a lot of different opinions here and you'll just have to research and make your choices based on your interpretation. I've had 100% success using this approach for 2-3 years - but I have not stored one for 5.

 

Well, ideally, I'd like it to be that way for a month. But considering how impossible that would be both with a time factor and financially, I'll just get it done as soon as I can. So two years would be nice, but I was just trying to be realistic.

 

Best to plan for the worst and accept the best. You're thinking about it the right way IMHO.

 

Anyone else have any suggestions? This is something pretty high on my concern list. I don't want to redo the entire car just to have my engine and tranny go bad on me.

 

I would use fogging oil in the motor for long peroids of storage. Been using it in my cars and boats for years. Just let the motor run at a sliightly high idle and spray it in the carb until you can see the smoke come out the exhuast and shut it off. then take the spark plugs out and spray a little in the cylinders.

 

Fogging oil? Is this something I can pick up an the local parts store?

 

Just put synthetic oil in it and run it a bit before you pull it out. Synthetic won't break down like organic oil...especially in a garaged environment. Drain all the fuel out (carb bowls too), pull plugs and put a good squirt of [synthetic] oil in the cylinders & reinstall plugs, cover all openings with whatever, and wrap the entire engine in heavy plastic sheeting and duct tape {to keep moisture out}. That's my 2 cents....

 

I have to note that this hasn't been my experience with long-term storage. I had an LT1 run and stored with Mobile1, and it definitely turned to "sludge" after 3 years.

Not disagreeing, just sharing one guy's experience.

 

Yes, most parts stores carry it. It comes in a spray can.

 

http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/fog.aspx

 

here is another option...in addition to some of the aforementioned techniques. Shorten the storage time. Have a general plan for the body off. I'm assuming you have the storage space to do the job...so I'm figuring you have two garage spaces, or close to it.

Work on the chassis and the body separate.

My engine sat for 10 years and froze up the number 7 cylinder. After the engine rebuild, during the restoration, it sat for another 6 months until I fired it to break the cam. I fogged it while waiting. It has been 6 months since breaking the cam and I will seat the rings when i test fit the body. I start it once a month and let it warm up to operating temp before cutting it off.

That said, you can run it on the chassis (or the right stand). When you have amassed the money, tools, and parts for the chassis resto, only then pull the motor/trans, and resto the full chassis. When reassembled re-install the engine and you can run it periodically. This could shorten your storage time greatly.

I run my engine with no wiring harness, right off of a battery that I recharge. I have just enough wires for a starter switch, starter-coil, a ballast resister, and some crucial gauges for monitoring the engine.

Now I am working on the body, and the next time I work on it, I'll test fit the car (and seat the rings).

 

You could stretch the resto out to 4/5 years if you want. But a body off is not 4/5 years of work especially when your drive train is already done.

 

Have the money, time and place to do it ,Rle of thumb as usual, figur cost xalmost2.

I once wanted to do a frame off..


Good luck and stick with it

 

This was more of an issue with stretching out the funding.

I have a 3 car garage. While the Third bay has 3 work benches, I'd still have room for the engine to sit in.

Like if I build a stand out of steel or aluminum where the motor mounts could hook up? What do you do about water?