My driver's side window goes up and down fine, but can move side to side. Are the white pieces that hold the windows in place called retainers? Is that what the problem likely is? How easy are they to replace?

-Me

 

I wonder if you are referring to Anti-Rattle Door Window Bumpers....they are easy to install but you have to remove the door panels to do it.

you may have to copy and paste this into your browser window, it is what I am referring to....good luck
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...1&dept_id=1673

 

Hi Y69O,
Do the windows move side to side on the way up or down, or when the window is fully up or fully down?
Regards,
Alan

 

I don't think it's the anti-rattle. They are up top and look fine. I mean at the base. It appears to move when they are up because the glass wants to hit the B-pillar when you open and close the door. I don't really care as much if it moves when down, but I'm sure it can. I've bought a kit from Zip. Is this a pretty straight forward install? Sorry for the delay.

-Adam

 

my window does the same thing so who has the answer to fix the issue ??

 

Me too, my passenger side window has a front-back movement, its a real PITA to try to roll it up while the door is closed!! .. I wonder if the changing the plastic rollers will fix it. How hard is it to remove the glass window out of the door???

 

I have to open my driver door to put the window up.The back moves up fast than the front. So the glass hits the A pillar. One of the white rollers is broken.
Its about $30 for the kit (6 or 7 pieces). It's on my list.

 

The AIM has a full page of instructions for adjusting the side window fit and movement. It's so involved there's a separate page for coupes and convertibles. In the 1971 AIM, for coupes it's UPC 1, sheet K 11, and for convertibles it's UPC 1, sheet K 13.
I don't think any one adjustment or replacing one part is going to cure your troubles. You really need to see the procedures and diagrams to understand what happens, why, and what the fix is.
Regards,
Alan

 

I re-did mine this past spring, they were loose and the plasitc parts worn out. The door panel is easy to pull and you can then get a really good look inside to see what is wrong. If you are lucky you may just need to do some tightening up in there to get it all secured again.

 

When you say side to side what do you mean exactly.I think that can be taken 2 ways and some of the guys seem to be doing that.If you mean the window will slide forward in the door and backwards then there is a slide specifically for that in the door that is probably loose.

 

It would move side to side with my hand or have moved so that when I opened and closed the door it would HIT the B-pillar!

I opened my door up on Sunday and the first hole on the glass (from front to back) has plastic through it and doesn't connect to anything.

The second hole was off the track, so I took the FRONT track out (2 bolts up top and one on the bottom of the side facing you). I took the old wheel out by unscrewing one of the stops, and regreased everything and put the new wheel in from the kit (it will be very tight, but will move). I also used a plastic piece from the kit that looks just like the one in the hole next to it. I put a nut on the end after applying a lock-tight evequivalent and tightened it a good deal. I rolled up the window with the door closed and adjusted the track based on where the window needed to go, but it is still a little off, but it is very solid (you cannot move it with your hand and it does not move at high speed to let air in the car!)

My question is if I want it to be absolutely perfect, do I move the top stop down a little in the track? The problem is that the top of the front of the window is a little too high, but I could definitely live with it this way and am very happy with my effort.

 

Adjusting glass is a little trial and error adjusting.You can try moving the stop down or you can loosen the tilt adjustment(short tract with wheel) and tilt the front down a bit or you can lean the window in at top so the glass goes in and under.Or you can do a combination of all 3.

 

Pull your interior door panel. The adjuster nuts are visable, plus you can see if there are any worn parts. More than likely, one or more of the adjusting screws has come loose. You may even see where they were set originally if they have moved as the doors were painted prior to the window assemblies being installed. I acutally had one screw that was stripped, so you don't want to overtorque them when you re-tighten them.

The AIM has a section on how to adjust the windows. I don't recall what section though. Also, I had a book on restoring Corvettes that had a good section on window adjustments. Mine are manual crank windows, don't know if there is a difference for adjusting electric windows if you have them.

 

OK anyone have any pics of this area ???????

 

That's all I had to do for my passenger window was tighten up the plastic retainers. There are bolts that run through the retainers and through the glass. The retainers are sleeved and when tight keep the window from moving around.

Do not over tighten.

cc

 

http://corvette.sharktooth.org/misc/glass.html

 

I noticed the thing about overtightening them. I might have to get larger bolts now... Oh well, I'm in no rush to got back in just yet.

 

L82 Shark Posted a great link - essentially the same information as is in the assembly/service manuals.

http://corvette.sharktooth.org/misc/glass.html

Getting the windows adjusted properly is SUCH an easy job it amazes me that people live with it for so long. It just takes some patience and a little bit of problem solving. And actually the setup on these Vettes is one of the simpler ones.

Let me give some additional important tips.

1. Get the door aligned FIRST. Roll the window down, take the striker bolt off, and see where the door naturally sits. The door striker bolt is NOT designed to adjust UP/DOWN alignment issues like many people do. If your door raises or lowers when you open/close it, then your striker is mis-adjusted. The striker is only there to adjust how far the door goes IN or OUT from the body. If your door is slightly off (too high/too low) and you don't want to adjust the hinges, then adjust the striker to close the door in its natural position. You will not only have much better, smoother door opening/closing, but you will prolong the life of your latch and striker. If you try and adjust the vertical door gap with your striker, you will never get your window aligned because the door position will change when you close it.

2. Set ALL glass adjustments to the center-point of their travel. If there is an elongated bolt hole, loosen every bolt and put it back in the center. This is SUPER important and it's like getting your carb back to a known baseline before tuning. All the adjustments are interrelated, and I guarantee that someone made a dumb adjustment at one point to compensate for something, and you’ll spend a frustrating amount of time trying to change other parts to compensate. I would be willing to bet everyone here that just putting the window adjustments back to the centerpoint on every dimension will get you 90% of the way to a proper placement (assuming you did #1 and got the door right)

3. Follow the adjustments IN ORDER. There is a reason the factory manual is written that way. Some adjustment need to be made from the outside (like Tilting the window and the Front/Rear Gap) so you need to be outside to do that. Final adjustments you can make from inside – I find that the amount the window rolls up and the inboard/outboard adjustment are easier from inside with the door closed. For instance, I often make the upper window stop completely loose, close the door, roll the window up, and then tighten the stop. This assures that the window/weatherstrip are guiding the adjustment so the glass ends up in a natural position.

It will take you longer to get the door adjusted then it will take to get the window adjusted if you follow those steps. I got my windows adjusted perfectly in less than 30min, including door panel removal.

 

I'm sure I speak for everyone on this thread -- thanks a bunch to both of you. I saved what you said and the article. Next time I'm motivated to take the door apart, I'll be reading it again. I guess the striker is what catches when the door closes? We actually fixed my door alignment a few months ago and it is perfect now.