What did you miss?
Also if anyone knows anything about the 68 that a should look for or be aware before buying it would be very appreciated.
Thanks,
Kevin
As a first year model, many changes were made throughout the year and then further improvements were made for 69. Many of the 68 only parts cost conciderably more than the same part for a 69 or newer Vette. This applies to repro and used parts. Many of the 68 only parts aren't being made and have to be found used.
A short list of unique to 68 parts includes: grills, grill brackets, early headlight doors, core support, radiator shroud, wheels, wiper door actuator, wiper door and molding, steering column, dash, door panels, doors, door handles, door locks, parking brake console, coupe interior courtesy lamp lenses, seat belts and even the hinges used in the rear storage compartment doors (of which there are at lease 2 designs). There's more, but you get the idea. A heavily modified car or one that has a lot of missing or replaced original parts can be very difficult and expensive to return to original, if this is your intention. I realize that this can be said of many Corvettes, but a 69-72 in like condition can be restored easier and cheaper. Of course if your interested in a modified car, than this isn't as big of an issue, but should still be considered.
I'm not telling you to avoid the 68, just trying to help you be aware of what to look out for. Being in the parts business, I've dealt with many people who have found this out the hard way; AFTER buying a 68. Just like buying any car, educate yourself ahead of time, ask questions and if your not sure of yourself, get the help of someone more knowledgable to look at it with you. Your off to a good start by asking questions here.
Good luck,
Glenn

No probs with 1/4 tank when I inspected and bought it, but a lot of perforations in tank above 1/2 full mark caused some concern after first full fill. New tank was put in and all OK.
As mentioned, all the exclusive to 68's parts are costlier.
I personally like the differences... especially the key in the centre of the dash and the lower height (no head restraint) bucket seats.
The big thing to look for is rust.... headaches!
Then check the body... fibreglass rework can be costly
Then worry about mechanicals (engine/trans/brakes etc) easily obtained
And then the cosmetics ..... appearance/finish/NCRS compliant etc

Got it fixed no problem, but it still pi$$ed me off
I also missed Bubba's "Antenna Retaining Gatorade Cap". But that one was just a good laugh!


I still got a good car, but "Let the Buyer Beware!"



I know it is going to be a project but i want to restore something that I know is perfect and reliable in every way. Also it is a great learning experience.
Do you realize what you're undertaking with this car? $3500.00 will be a very small fraction of the money you'll have in it when it's perfect in everyway.
Regards,
Alan
As we say on the Forum, "Run, Forrest, run!"With the economy flat and getting toward the end of the good weather, I can't believe you can't do better either, even if your seller has all of the parts. That baby needs, in the words of Led Zeppelin, "A Whole Lotta Love!"
I see rust issues and ugly fender flares to start. I do not know the level of your experience and expertise, except that you have a 76 and are somewhat familiar w C3's.
Search the many threads over the years that discuss the parts that are unique to only 68's, for one. 68's also have less interior room due to the larger steering wheel and slightly wider door panels.
None of this is to discourage you from obtaining a 68, just this one!
Rickman
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


and you must know exactly what the parts are, and know if you have everything there.
I suggest find a local knowledgable Corvette guy, and take him with you.
I bought a project and was told everything was there, but failed to verify,
so I am still chasing parts down. 69VETT
Last edited by 68/BB; Oct 4, 2008 at 09:51 PM.




















