Help - 69 electrical issues
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 10
From: Hilton Head Island SC
Help - 69 electrical issues
Ok, here goes. I removed shifter console, plate, gauge bezel, dash pad, etc. I did not remove the driver side lower dash pad. I installed re dyed parts along with new battery gauge, gauge bezel, and shifter plate. I felt I was being careful with re connecting gauges, but after thinking I was finished, here are my problems
1. fuel gauge is pegged past full, and not moving
2. battery gauge does not work
3. when I put turn signal on, left or right, both rear lights blink as if I put flashers on. fronts seem to work fine
There may be more phantoms, but the above is what I'm seeing now.
All info appreciated
1. fuel gauge is pegged past full, and not moving
2. battery gauge does not work
3. when I put turn signal on, left or right, both rear lights blink as if I put flashers on. fronts seem to work fine
There may be more phantoms, but the above is what I'm seeing now.
All info appreciated
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,112
From: Crossville TN
Either there is a grounding problem in the gauge cluster, or there was some wiring damage from packing all that stuff back in there on reassembly. I think you have no option but to open the cluster back up. Before you button it back up, use a jumper clip to make sure of the ground and fire it up to check all gauge operation. That way you can get it all working correctly before you close it back up.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Normally doing the work you did I would say you missed some grounds but the battery gauge is not effected by ground.
So I'm thinking you didnt get the washers ,insulators and resistors on the back of the gauges installed correctly.
On the fuel gauge your condition usually means the wire going to the sender in the tank is disconnected.
On the turn signals I didnt understand what you meant was wrong.
So I'm thinking you didnt get the washers ,insulators and resistors on the back of the gauges installed correctly.
On the fuel gauge your condition usually means the wire going to the sender in the tank is disconnected.
On the turn signals I didnt understand what you meant was wrong.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 10
From: Hilton Head Island SC
Thanks guys. Yes I was afraid I'd have to pull it apart again (pita)
I'll try to clarify my turn signal problem. If I turn the left turn signal on, the front left works, BOTH left and right rear lights act as if the flashers are on. If I turn right turn signal on, front right works, BOTH left and right lights act as if the flashers are on. ( in other words both sides blink on and off, like flashers) Thanks again, I'll welcome all the help I can get on this one.
I'll try to clarify my turn signal problem. If I turn the left turn signal on, the front left works, BOTH left and right rear lights act as if the flashers are on. If I turn right turn signal on, front right works, BOTH left and right lights act as if the flashers are on. ( in other words both sides blink on and off, like flashers) Thanks again, I'll welcome all the help I can get on this one.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,112
From: Crossville TN
Does your hazard flasher work correctly? If not, pull the hazard flasher module out of the fuse block and try your turn signals again. If all works as it should, replace the hazard flasher module.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
As 7T1 is saying the hazards are a good place to start.The wires going to the rear signals are green and yellow,do you remember doing anything around the harmonica connector with the green and yellow?
This is an odd set of conditions.Do you have any blown fuses? I hope 7T1s not right about wiring damage behind the cluster,melted wiring can get messy.
This is an odd set of conditions.Do you have any blown fuses? I hope 7T1s not right about wiring damage behind the cluster,melted wiring can get messy.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 10
From: Hilton Head Island SC
Did not check fuses yet. I felt that I put everything back the way I found it., even tagged everything I removed so I would not screw it up. So much for that plan. Is the sending unit connection separate from the connector on the fuel gauge? If so, where does it connect? Anyone have a picture of the back of the gauge housing?
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Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Dont give up yet it still could be something fairly simple.It definitely has me scratching my head.
On the fuel gauge....on the back of the gauge is a 2 wire plug.1 wire is pink and is the power and the other is a tan wire and thats the wire that goes to the tank sender.The gauge is grounded through the mounting to the cluster.
If the gauge is grounded and there is power on the pink wire and the tan wire isnt making contact with the gauge the gauge will read pegged full.
On the fuel gauge....on the back of the gauge is a 2 wire plug.1 wire is pink and is the power and the other is a tan wire and thats the wire that goes to the tank sender.The gauge is grounded through the mounting to the cluster.
If the gauge is grounded and there is power on the pink wire and the tan wire isnt making contact with the gauge the gauge will read pegged full.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Here are some pics from member Dobroman,these might help.
http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z...sh%20pictures/
http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z...sh%20pictures/
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 10
From: Hilton Head Island SC
Thanks. The last thing I did before putting the car away today, was to remove the windshield wiper switch bezel, reach in behind, and check the connection on the fuel gauge. It seemed tight. It has to be something I did or didn't do behind the gauges. I just hate the thought of pulling it apart again. I even managed to get the nuts and washers on the studs at the bottom of the gauge bezel where it connects to the console. Not an easy task.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Check your fuses.
Before taking it all back out go back and pull the tan wire off the fuel sender and ground it.Make sure your key is on.Normally the gauge should go to empty.Let us know what happens.
Those 2 studs on the bottom of the bezel are tough.
On your 69 you will have 2 orange fusible links for the battery gauge,check those also.If 1 is blown the ammeter gauge wont work.
Before taking it all back out go back and pull the tan wire off the fuel sender and ground it.Make sure your key is on.Normally the gauge should go to empty.Let us know what happens.
Those 2 studs on the bottom of the bezel are tough.
On your 69 you will have 2 orange fusible links for the battery gauge,check those also.If 1 is blown the ammeter gauge wont work.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 10
From: Hilton Head Island SC
Did not have time today to get into the pulling of the gauge bezel, etc. But I checked fuses, can't see any blown. Flashers work fine. Turn signals still nuts. Turn left turn signal on, rear blinks on both left and right. turn right turn signal on, same thing happens.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 45
From: Cameron Park CA
Maybe there is an easier way than this, but I have a 3/8" swivel socket and a long (about 10") extension to get to those nuts. When I put it back together I start the nuts on the studs and slip the studs into the grooved holes in the console brace. That saves trying to start the nuts with the center cluster in place. Hope this helps if you have to remove the center cluster again.
