When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Can anyone explain why a greasable u-joint that is only greased once at installation time would not last as long as a non greasable joint. Assuming neither had a structural failure ? Why would one outlast the other ?
No explanation.....but I've put a file to the bearing surface of each and the HD non-greasable seemed to be harder.Its been awhile but I think the cap is a closer fit also.
New pixs. The Hole thru the trunnin is stepped, large hole is .312, small is .250. O.D. of trunin is .653. The color inside the holes are of a gold tint like heat treating usally looks.The joint was in fact put in backwards, zerk facing wrong way. I find no sign of rust, and the bent bolt was from the result of the failure. The end caps had not rotated, the joints showed normal wear, but not worn out. I have owned it 3 years mostly working on the cars front end and motor. 1700 miles total, buy me. never in rain.
I'd bet the retainer clip came out at some point and the u-joint slowly moved to one side and fell out. The damage you are looking at most likely was caused by hitting the road while spinning until you stopped. By the damage to the driveshaft the u-joint ends broke off after bouncing & banging around the bottom of the car and road.
My 0.2
I'd bet the retainer clip came out at some point and the u-joint slowly moved to one side and fell out. The damage you are looking at most likely was caused by hitting the road while spinning until you stopped. By the damage to the driveshaft the u-joint ends broke off after bouncing & banging around the bottom of the car and road.
My 0.2
That's happened to me before in a truck. Half of the U-joint slipped out sending it way out of balance. The other side stayed in, so it just vibrated like a death machine until I came to a stop to see what was wrong.
I limped it home at 10 MPH...anything higher and it would start vibrating. Once home I got the drive shaft out and replaced the U-joint. Back on the road within 15 minutes.
Don't the C3s come with permanently lubricated U-joints? If so, why would you replace one with a greasable joint? I believe my '78 has permanently lubricated U-joints.
Well, "permanently" lubricated U-joints are intended for the normal life of a vehicle....not for almost 40 years. Grease dries out after 5-10 years; then the joint is working "dry". You have to replace them when they no longer perform their function. For real permanence, the kind with Zerk fittings allow you to continually keep the grease 'fresh'. If they aren't overloaded, those really should last a lifetime (or more).
From the photos, it appears to me that the joint fractures may have started at the machined undercut near the base of the trunions. That machined undercut can create a stress riser at a highly stressed area in the joint and cracking can initiate there. Once one side started to 'work' and gain movement, the entire load moves to the other side and it cracked as well. About any loading at that point will cause both trunions to break off and the joint is gone. Just replace them with Moog or other well manufactured joints (not stuff like Dura-junk from Auto Zone!) and you shouldn't have another problem like that one. If you go WOT occasionally, get the greasless joints; if you don't, get the Zerk kind if you want.
I cracked in half USA made zerk joints with a 250 hp vette with 336 gears- no loading. I have since used nothing but Spicer solid joints in my cars and the shafts I rebuild. Building some 3.5 shafts now with the same joints. Those appear to be more of a mfg defect then the typical cracking. If you look up my threads on U-joints you'll see the one I broke as well as the ones I haven't. Even when the posi cracked in 1/2 from abuse on one of our cars the Spicers were rock solid and re-used without a problem. I've run spicer that had the cap popout and those didn't break either. they cost about $10 more then the junk in the chain stores but they're worth it.
The joint was in fact put in backwards, zerk facing wrong way.
Can you expand on this?
The zerk in this case (outer u-joint) is pointed towards the wheel it should be towards the differential.That makes it impossible to get a normal grease gun on the zerk.
However, it doesn't put any more stress on the joint or relate to this failure...other than the joint wasn't greased for 3 years [because you couldn't get a grease gun on it].
another reason to invest in half shaft safety loops these are used for racing applications true, but the design of the vette IRS almost warrants them to be installed (just in case) i think there is a company called "drag vette" that sells them pretty reasonably and the small amount of investment involved there, would give peace of mind and definitely "control" the damage field. even a stock 190 h.p. is still capable of producing some significant torque and torque is what caused this not horse power.
........................................ ..........chris
Safety loops are a pretty cheap insurance if a shaft lets go.
thanks for the photo binnie77!! i found the phone number for drag vette products it is 1-877-422-0943 and the pair of half shaft safety loops sell for $119.00 compare that to what you'd spend for rear repairs if the half shaft lets go!!
..........................chris