removing interior for heat/noise insulation
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 453
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
removing interior for heat/noise insulation
I've been working at removing my interior this week to add insulation and new carpet. Originally I had wanted to remove everything to get the best results possible. Currently, I have the console, gauges, complete dash, and air ducts out. Everything left is a bunch of wires, steering wheel, colum, some metal brackets for the steering, and the air box stuff where the heater core is.
I'm wanting opinions on whether or not I should remove the rest so I can lay the damplifier pro all the way up the front firewall. There isn't that much left considering what I already pulled out, but I'm kind of to a point of feeling overwhelmed by pieces scattered everywhere in the garage. Should I just lay the stuff up as far as I can, which would be a little past the carpet line, or keep going? Will lining the fire wall make that much difference?
I'm wanting opinions on whether or not I should remove the rest so I can lay the damplifier pro all the way up the front firewall. There isn't that much left considering what I already pulled out, but I'm kind of to a point of feeling overwhelmed by pieces scattered everywhere in the garage. Should I just lay the stuff up as far as I can, which would be a little past the carpet line, or keep going? Will lining the fire wall make that much difference?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
I would not [and did not] bother with the upper portion of the interior firewall. It has an insulation 'blanket' on it already and it would be a major headache to go farther than you already have. Just put the new insulation up as high as you can reach with the present level of disassembly. P.S. Make sure that you check out and update [if necessary] anything in the dash area while you're at it....heat/cool system servos, door flaps, vacuum line connections, change speakers if you want, make radio changes, and don't forget to replace all of the light bulbs while you're at it.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: West Chester OH
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I would not [and did not] bother with the upper portion of the interior firewall. It has an insulation 'blanket' on it already and it would be a major headache to go farther than you already have. Just put the new insulation up as high as you can reach with the present level of disassembly. P.S. Make sure that you check out and update [if necessary] anything in the dash area while you're at it....heat/cool system servos, door flaps, vacuum line connections, change speakers if you want, make radio changes, and don't forget to replace all of the light bulbs while you're at it.
That's what I did with mine, big difference in sound and heat in the cabin. I used reflectix most places, used an organic type (felt stuff) under the console to ensure there were not any issues with electrical stuff shorting out.
Good luck, you'll see a big difference
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 12
From: Kalispell MT
I also agree with 7T1Vette. I did my interior on my '70 last winter and the only reason I replaced the firewall insulation was due to the heater core crapping out and ruining the passenger side material when it leaked coolant. The driver side was fine but it's all one piece so I did it all.
I used Dynamat Extreme under the new Al Knoch carpet set and I'm very happy with the results.
I used Dynamat Extreme under the new Al Knoch carpet set and I'm very happy with the results.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 453
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
Ok, so I guess I'll stop where I'm at and start cleaning the surfaces to lay down the stuff.
I do need to check out the zone control flapper for the defrost, heater, vent cause those aren't working correctly. I was thinking about running some new speaker wires while I'm in here and finish the stereo at a later date. Perhaps I'll replace all those little bulbs too.
I do need to check out the zone control flapper for the defrost, heater, vent cause those aren't working correctly. I was thinking about running some new speaker wires while I'm in here and finish the stereo at a later date. Perhaps I'll replace all those little bulbs too.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Very little money and time for some long-term "piece of mind". If you have A/C, be sure to check out the right kickpanel damper door. It is notorious for sticking and having a worn out seal. If you need to repair it, I can advise on the inexpensive way to get that done...really cheap and it still looks original. PM me if you need to.7T1vette
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 222
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From: penngrove ca
I'm also replacing the interior of my 76. Although that keeps geting moved back as I keep finding other little stuff in the eng. comp to fix. How do you test that kickpanel door and zone control flapper? Can this be done with the interior apart?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 453
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
Good point with the flapper door. It appears to have a strong spring back action but I see it's got a vacuum line to it. I'm assuming this door opens either all the time or when you switch the level to vent. Hopefully it's testable without the engine running? I dont' want to start or turn power on with all the wires dangling around.
Also, for the guys that layed a self sticking insulator down, how did you clean up the floor? I still have alot of factory looking silver bumpy stuff all over so I don't want to wire wheel it. I'd rather just get all the stock pad off that stuck down with age/glue. I'm guessing some or of chemical and scraper?
Also, for the guys that layed a self sticking insulator down, how did you clean up the floor? I still have alot of factory looking silver bumpy stuff all over so I don't want to wire wheel it. I'd rather just get all the stock pad off that stuck down with age/glue. I'm guessing some or of chemical and scraper?
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
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From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Here are some shots from my '76 interior job:
Por15 over the steel floor:
Then a full coating of Rustoleum on top of the POR15. NO MORE RUST!
Reflectix time:
Rear Deck completed:
New seat covers in BMW Champagne Leather done locally:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,429
Likes: 0
From: Tucson AZ
Also, for the guys that layed a self sticking insulator down, how did you clean up the floor? I still have alot of factory looking silver bumpy stuff all over so I don't want to wire wheel it. I'd rather just get all the stock pad off that stuck down with age/glue. I'm guessing some or of chemical and scraper?
I used 3M general purpose adhesive cleaner, goo off (I think), acrysol, and one or two others. Whatever you use, I would recommend covering the area with a kinda thick rag, soak it with whatever solvent you choose, and let it sit for 5-10 mins. This resulted in best performance for me. MEK may be a bit strong for the fiberglass.
I used DynaMat Xtreme, and I'm very happy with it in the So. AZ summer heat (105ish) and my wife takes her shoes off in the summer and no foot burn. I chose not to use the reflectix, and others because I thought the plastic bubble wrap stuff inside just wouldn't hold up to big block heat.
My interior was a real PITA to clean, but it's well worth it for the finished product.
If you want a kickin stereo, now is the time to run all the wires, RCA's, plan where the amp will be and run power and turn on switch wire too. Like a dumba$$, I didn't think about the heater core, and you guessed, it popped not too long ago. I've got mine torn apart again to all the heat&A/C vacuum lines. My best advice.....DO IT NOW!!!!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 453
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
Thanks for the replies. The interior pics look good. Luckily I have no rust on the metal part of my floors but I do have a nasty mess of factory stuff that got gummy with the carb cleaner I was using. I ended up just scraping the coating out that looked wet/gummy, cleaning it up with a rag and rolling down some damplifier pro right on top of it. I got the whole center console "hump" covered and tomorrow I'll start with the rest of the floors and such. Seems like it's going to go quite a bit faster now. I'm guessing the drain holes are supposed to be open? Seems like water can wick up in the carpet from there.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
There are supposed to be plastic 'cup' plugs in the drain holes, just so outside water can't get to the carpeting. You can buy some general purpose plastic plugs or you can buy the replacement plug set at about any of the Corvette aftermarket supply places. They are pretty cheap.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Baton Rouge Louisiana
There are supposed to be plastic 'cup' plugs in the drain holes, just so outside water can't get to the carpeting. You can buy some general purpose plastic plugs or you can buy the replacement plug set at about any of the Corvette aftermarket supply places. They are pretty cheap.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
Likes: 5
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
GOO-Gone is the stuff! It got rid of all my factory glue. Softens it right up so a putty knife can remove it.