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Hey guys, i am wanting to know what kind of rear-end to go with that will handle my HP when im done building my engine. Can i go solid axle or do i have to stay IRS?
My vette is a 80 L82, It will be drag raced but will be street driven also.
I want my rear-end to be strong enough that i never have to worry about it. This is my engine set up right now.
LT1 396 fully forged with a 200 shot through a th350 with a stall. My desktop dyno says around 530hp at the fly without the bottle.
The corvette rear end u have should be rebuilt with richmond gears and it will be plenty strong for anything u throw at it, the turbo 350 is your problem, I would either ditch it or get it professionally beefed up by a tranny shop. That 350 can only handle 400 hp max and it will disappoint you at the track.
When I rebuilt my engine I upgraded to a beefed up 700r (wish i had the money for a 4l60e) and had my diff rebuilt with 3.70 richmonds.
what about the th400, my engine builder has done alot of drag racing over the years, and says with a small amount money spent on beefing up the 400, that will take alot of stick
what about the th400, my engine builder has done alot of drag racing over the years, and says with a small amount money spent on beefing up the 400, that will take alot of stick
ps - where do I get this desktop dyno from?
cheers
dave
Keep 'bumping' into you in 'some not-so-strange' places Dave.
The 80 aluminum rear is worthless at your HP level. If you are going to run drag radials or slicks you can forget it. You can build up a 79 or erlier iron pumpkin and fit it to your rear assembly. Gary GTR1999 is the man to talk to about building higher performance rears. The rear you have will hold about 400 to 450 HP with the abuse you are going to give it. The iron units can hold more in stock form but if you are going to be running 530 or 700+ with nitrous you better get in touch with TOMS differential. He has the components to make it very strong.
The iron units can hold more in stock form but if you are going to be running 530 or 700+ with nitrous you better get in touch with TOMS differential. He has the components to make it very strong.
Stick with Tom's the best in the business if you are serous. However, plan on spending on at least 3 K on the reaer end.
400 trany done right are very strong but they gobble up a lot of HP while doing it. You can make a 350 plenty strong for you you just need to upgrade your components.
And the BB half shafts are bigger than the SB right? Or I guess you can have half shafts made if money is no object. There is an article in the current CHP mag about auto trans. Quote " The turbo 400 is 50% stronger than the the Turbo 350 but uses percent more HP to turn The Turbo 350 can be manufactured to handle up to 850 hp which is plenty stout for most small blocks. The Turbo 400 can be built to handle up to 1200 hp. Interesting huh? The name of the company is Gearstar. I have never heard of them but they build all of the GM line of auto trans . I know this was a tread about rear ends sorry.
And the BB half shafts are bigger than the SB right? Or I guess you can have half shafts made if money is no object.
No they are not. They started putting 3 inch half shafts in the mid 70s. Not sure exactly what year they started. The BB and 4 speed cars used caps instead of a strap to hold in the ujoints on most early sharks. I have a set of 3 inch shafts that were made. They cost me 150 bucks a few years ago and that included solid joints and flanges. They have gone up quite a bit since mine were bought. They are a little heavier wall than the stockers.
Kind of strange GM went to 3 inch shafts as the HP started to decline. The L88s only had 2 1/2 shafts.
Ok checked toms website and i think thats where im gonna go, i just want a rear-end that will be able to take everything i throw at it, my th350 is built to take the abuse, its my stall that im worried about lol
Dave honestly its Comp Cam 6 which you can d/l from comp cams website, its not perfect but its decent, also my engine build is a clone of another engine and 530 is what they got dynoed out of it and it was pretty close to my dyno numbers on my computer.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Once again I gotta rebuff the myth about the '80 rear ends. Mines stock never really been touched, put over 600ft/lbs thru it an hour ago, 7000RPM in first gear. Didn't "launch" the car at high RPM's but the fact still remains as soon as I hit about 4750RPM's the rear end is seeing 600+ ft/lbs.
Once again I gotta rebuff the myth about the '80 rear ends. Mines stock never really been touched, put over 600ft/lbs thru it an hour ago, 7000RPM in first gear. Didn't "launch" the car at high RPM's but the fact still remains as soon as I hit about 4750RPM's the rear end is seeing 600+ ft/lbs.
Wayne "the myth buster" MotorHead
I honestly don't know how yours is taking the abuse. The 80-82 is definitly weaker than the old iron units but you have the "expirimental" one that GM was trying out.
Traction is the real killer in these units. You can put 1000 HP to it but if your tires are just going to spin they are the weak link. If you run sticky tires what is the next weak link?
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Quite honestly I am surprised too, I expected to have broken parts all over the place a long time ago
The 7000RPM the tires were spinning yes but I did do one from a slight roll to 5000RPM where they did not spin, so the rear end was getting full torque of the 427ci, and took it.
Now shocking it at a drag strip with sticky tires I wouldn't bet 5 bucks it would last
motorhead im assuming that your not running slicks? I have full plans to get rid of the 80 stock unit, just for the sake of me lining up and as the tree lights up wondering if my rear is gonna be all over the ground... I wanna be bulletproof.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
To the best of my knowledge, in order to install a 12-bolt IRS you'll have to retro-fit your frame to accept the earlier C3 diff x-member, as the 12-bolt hog-head won't mate with the batwing. But I believe Gary can build you a fairly stout 10-bolt that should with a little work, if you don't want to go that route, which may be sufficient behind an auto. So do take the advice and drop him a line if you haven't already.
The 12 bolt would use the same 71-79 iron housing as any 10 bolt but you're correct in the fact the 80-82 will require using the earlier 1/2 shafts,brackets,strut rods and possible modifying or replacing the driveshaft. The cover will bolt up to the iron unit. Add in the cost of these parts to that of a 12 bolt build and it adds up very fast. Also the stock 2.5 or 3" 1/2 shafts will be ok for mild use but if you're going all out then the 3.5" shafts and 31 spline spindles should be considered and those add in a lot more.
If you have questions you can PM or email me directly. I have pictures of the 12 bolt build up now on the other forums.