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I am new to the forum, and I can use some advice. Its about my 383 build. Last year I purhcased a block, had it prepped by my local machine shop, and was directed by them in releiving the block to make room for the connecting rods due to the longer stroke. (I do understand that I will need to check these clearances once the crank is in.)
Due to significant family events, the build was put on hold. Thankfully I am ready to start now.
I have the 383 kit and I am looking forward to the build. Just need to purchace the right camshaft.
My question is, I would like to know if there is a sticky regarding the rotating assembly build. This is my first bottom end build and do not want to miss anything since it would be heartbreaking to have an engine failure upon startup.
Any help in getting started again is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!!!!
Welcome to the forum! You're in the right place. The folks here are very helpful and supportive. I don't know of any sticky for the rotating assembly. I recently finished my 383. I used a Haynes and a Chilton manual. Putting it all together is pretty straight forward. Get yourself a manual. Read and understand the procedures. You'll do fine. As far as selecting a camshaft. Post your specs and your desired outcome. You'll receive many suggestions. By the way, i'm using a Comp Cams Magnum 286 and am very happy with it. Good luck.
You can go from mild to wild and your bottom end and camshaft selection will be determined by what you want out ofthe motor. I have an all forged bottom end with a pretty big solid cam 252/260 dur @ .050 with lifts in the .540 range. It runs to 7000 rpm pretty easy. What are you looking for in terms of HP and performance and we can answer your question better.
WELCOME, The cam really depends on the the rest of your combo and also what rods are you using?? as some rods have a lot of stroker clearance and some don't. The rods that don't you may have to do some extra ginding on the rods and use a smaller base cirlce cam.
As far as the cam is concerned, I really wanted to use a hydraulic roller cam with a lift that is no more than .500. I want to stay with the stock converter. What I like about the roller cam is that a break in is not necessary. But it looks as if I am going to use a hydraulic flat tappet lifter. I am leaning towards the lunati Voodoo camshaft line.But a very important deciding factor is a cam with a small base circle. And as far as the heads are concerned, I am using World products SR tourquer heads. I am going to do a basic port job such as matching the intake gaskets to the head and intake manifold (performer RPM), polish the combustion chamber to a mirror finish, and inside the exhaust and intake runners just remove burrs and flashing that is hanging in the wind.
Im just looking to build a fun motor to put in my 1977 corvette and have some fun with it on the weekends. Maybe the build after this (if there is one) I will shoot for a monster mouse motor such as a 406.
By the way thank you for your warm welcome and the great advice as far as the chiltons manual.
Its really nice to talk about this stuff with people who understand.
Welcome! You must get yourself an engine assembly book. There are many out there and the choice is yours as to selection, but you must have one. These books will include all the torque specs that you need to follow as well as important clearances and assembly proceedures. As others have stated (correctly), cam selection will be a product of many other factors in the build. Things like compression, cylinder head material, desired engine characteristics upon completion, etc...
I am running a fairly large cam in mine and it is not a small base circle cam. I do have a set of stroker rods with 7/16 bolts in them but there is enough clearance between the cam and the rods. Don't go buying a small base circle if you do not need it. If the cam you are looking at is .500 lift or smaller I doubt you will need the small base circle.
Thanks Gordon. The rods striking the cam is a concern for me. From what I have been told, typically two specific rods usually hit the cam, not sure which two though.
What is it about a lower lift cam that eliminates this problem?