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Bellhouse vs Flywheel

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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 02:54 PM
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From: Hazerswoude-Rijndijk Zuid Holland
Default Bellhouse vs Flywheel

Hi,
I have got a TKO600 in the workshop and soon I start installing it. Now our friends from Keisler want you to dialing in the Bellhouse. That' s ok. BUT should the flywheel not be dialed into see if it is flush to the crank. What if there is a "wobble". Or is this only my mind striving to perfection?
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 04:48 PM
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To me, that's just another part of being sure it's right. I would do a runout on the surface of the flywheel just to be sure it's flat. And then checking the runout and making sure the bellhousing is centered.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 02:47 AM
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From: Hazerswoude-Rijndijk Zuid Holland
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Any description of how to do that?
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 04:34 AM
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You should use the clutch alignment tool for that, just like that picture :

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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 04:39 AM
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From: Hazerswoude-Rijndijk Zuid Holland
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Hmmm, that centers the clutch. I don't thing you can discover a outrun on the fly wheel with that.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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Mount your base of the indicator on the block and then just move the arm so the indicator tip rides on the flywheel. That is easier then indicating the runout to the bellhousing. I would indicate the crank flange first and then do the flywheel. If out it could be the crank flange or the flywheel.

The clutch alignment tool won't indicate anything. Just makes the disc centered.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
I would indicate the crank flange first
I wouldn't, that could get real expensive
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cajos
Hi,
I have got a TKO600 in the workshop and soon I start installing it. Now our friends from Keisler want you to dialing in the Bellhouse. That' s ok. BUT should the flywheel not be dialed into see if it is flush to the crank. What if there is a "wobble". Or is this only my mind striving to perfection?
The end of the crank is machined and flywheel is machined. I've never checked it. centering the bell housing is critical because it ensures that the tranny input shaft is centered in the crank bearing.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 12:50 PM
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From: Hazerswoude-Rijndijk Zuid Holland
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Originally Posted by gkull
The end of the crank is machined and flywheel is machined. I've never checked it. centering the bell housing is critical because it ensures that the tranny input shaft is centered in the crank bearing.
True, but you forget one thing, that's the idiot in the middle that has to install two perfectly machined pars, ME. I can screw up boiling water ;-).
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cajos
True, but you forget one thing, that's the idiot in the middle that has to install two perfectly machined pars, ME. I can screw up boiling water ;-).
Just bolt the flywheel to crank and TQ the bolts down. I never have given it a thought as to whether it was perfect 90 degree to the centerline of the crank.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by cajos
Hmmm, that centers the clutch. I don't thing you can discover a outrun on the fly wheel with that.
Oh, I thought your question was about centering the clutch.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
The end of the crank is machined and flywheel is machined. I've never checked it. centering the bell housing is critical because it ensures that the tranny input shaft is centered in the crank bearing.
I agree I have never checked this, and I check everything
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
I've never checked it.
Originally Posted by gkull
I never have given it a thought as to whether it was perfect 90 degree to the centerline of the crank.
Originally Posted by MotorHead
I agree I have never checked this, and I check everything
It "WILL" get you one of these days and it only takes a few min.
I found a Scat crank out .0005 on the flange surface.
I had a local engine builder return an engine to me with the flange out .004......flywheel was crazy out when bolted up.
I have seen a bunch of pilot bushing holes that were several thousands out from center and some of them only .550 deep.That really screws up an input shaft in short order.
I gave up assuming these things are OK since I'm the one that has to take them back out...FOR FREE.
You think a machine shop would check the flange surface but most of them cant even find the tolerance for the flange surface.
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