In preparation for an auto to manual tranny conversion, I need to remove the brake pedal assembly. The interior of the car (1980) is stripped, and the dash removed. Steering column still in place. The drawing I've looked at conflict on the fastener placement. Some have the bolts going from the cockpit through the fire wall, while others are reversed. Do I need to remove the master cylinder and power brake booster to do this? Even with the dash out, getting to the mounting bolts is nearly impossible.

 

I never tried to do this on my 81 but did on my 73. To remove that brake assembly, I did have to remove the booster but it wasn't all that hard. A deep socket, a U-joint and about 16 inches of extensions did the job.

 

Do a search on this one, there is good information in the archives. I remember reading that there are bolts in the wiper tray and yes you will need to remove the master cylinder. If I am thinking correct there are a total of 10 bolts holding it in. 4 in the fire wall 4 in the wiper tray and 2 somewhere that I cant remember. Please check my information because I am not positive, but I hope it helps.

 

I removed the steering column as well. It helped a lot in getting all the clutch linkeage installed. Even though the holes were in the frame for the frame to engine block lever, it is much easier without the column.

Again, I removed them. In my opinion, it's often easier to get that stuff out of the way than to have to fight around it...

For what it's worth, it's still a beotch but well worth the swap.

 

You have a PM.

 

Here's something I wrote a couple of months ago... mine is a '76.. Hope this helps. Also some Pics that may help at:

http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z...20to%20Manual/



I'm in the middle of making the Auto to Manual change in my '76. I think I have spoken to most of the people that have responded to your posting about this topic!! I just completed the Pedal change this weekend and I would recommend the following to install the pedal assembly.

1. Remove the entire Steering Column. Takes about 30 mins tops and is fairly easy to do. The hardest part (for me) was removing the Shifter Interlock cable... but even that is not bad. Jim Shea has a detailed paper on how to do this as well. I have pictures if you need them of when I removed my Column.

2. Under the dash, locate the nuts that hold the brake booster on. There are 4 locking nuts that are mounted to the firewall. The upper right one is the hardest one to get to but just take your time and it will come off. I used a small ratchet with a deep-well socket.


3. Go ahead and remove the locking pin from the Brake Booster to the Brake Pedal as well as the brake light switch.

4. Pull the Brake Booster forward so the 4 studs clear the firewall. This was fairly difficult for me. I had to remove the vac. line from the Brake Booster and used a long screw driver to support the brake booster.

5. Now go outside in the Cowl area and there are 4 bolts that hold the upper part of the Pedal Assembly. Remove those as well.

6. Go back inside the car and remove the bracket that held the 2 vertical bolts which held the steering column. There should be 4 of these bolts.

7.Remove the screws that hold the drivers side dash pad on (7 total phillips head screws I think) and drop the dash pad forward.... just a little!!

8. There are 2 bolts that are mounted vertically behind the Speedo and Tac that are holding a upper support bracket. These will be clearly seen when the dash pad is moved forward. Loosen those bolts but do not remove them.

9. Now go under the dash and you should be able to remove the Auto Pedal Assembly from the car.

10. There are 3 screws that hold a cover on the FireWall for the Clutch Rod to go through. Remove those screws from the engine compartment and replace them with the rubber boot for the clutch rod.

11. Install the clutch rod on the clutch pedal and fit the Manual Pedal Assembly into place.


One important Note!

If you plan on using the Neutral Safety Switch, go ahead and install the connector on it before installing the new Manual Pedal Assembly. Otherwise it is very difficult. I did not do this and it too me alot of time to get that connector on!!

I also verified that the switches (safety and brake) worked with a meter before installing the Assembly.

Of course, now reverse the steps above. I am going to do a write up (I guess I just did!) when I'm finished and I have been taking pictures along the way as well if you need to see something.


I think I got all of that Correct!!

Later,
Tab

 

I sent my email to you im a PM. Thanks