When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am rebuilding my '73 C3 (body off) and when I try to re-install the driveshaft (BB engine, trans, driveshaft all new for this car), the driveshaft or its U-joint sit right next to the emergency brake cable bracket (which is welded to the frame). Any other option other than re-welding the bracket a few inched to the left?
With my TKO install my cable was hitting the tranny yoke. I'm going to cut the drivers side of the bracket off, weld a 1/4" plate the same shape as the bracket for strength and use a spacer to move the pulley towards the drivers side with no support on the drivers side of the pulley bolt.
Yes, I tried to loosen the vertical bolts through the frame (to the rear of the transmission) to move the transmission to the passenger side, but the trans wasn't moving. Do you mean to loosen the trans at the front of the trans? Won't that cause an alignment issue with the trans/driveshaft.differential?
What's the problem? Is the driveshaft hitting the bracket? Loosen the tranny mount and slide it away a little, then tighten it back up.
Yes -- yoke is hitting the emergency brake cable bracket (before rotation, which will make it even worse).
Yes, I tried to loosen the vertical bolts through the frame (to the rear of the transmission) to move the transmission to the passenger side, but the trans wasn't moving. Do you mean to loosen the trans at the front of the trans? Won't that cause an alignment issue with the trans/driveshaft.differential?
Not sure why it should be hitting if you are using original style parts. That said, I had the same problem when I installed my 700R4. If you cut the lower lip off of the bracket on the driver side, you can use a 2 1/2 in long 1/2 in bolt to move the roller to the outside of the bracket. A spacer inside of the bracket to keep it from collapsing and you are good to go.
Yes -- yoke is hitting the emergency brake cable bracket (before rotation, which will make it even worse).
Yes, I tried to loosen the vertical bolts through the frame (to the rear of the transmission) to move the transmission to the passenger side, but the trans wasn't moving. Do you mean to loosen the trans at the front of the trans? Won't that cause an alignment issue with the trans/driveshaft.differential?
Thanks for the thought,
Tom
I had the motor mounts loose and used a small ratchet strap under the tranny hooked to a punch I stuck into an alignment hole on the passenger side of the frame, it worked for me.
There's no alignment problems with the drivetrain except for the vertical angle of your transmission in tandem with your differential. As long as the U-joints on your driveline are angled and not straight then you have no problems.
There's no alignment problems with the drivetrain except for the vertical angle of your transmission in tandem with your differential. As long as the U-joints on your driveline are angled and not straight then you have no problems.
I also raised my transmission(TKO) and diff to correct those angles so thats probably helped clear the pulley and bracket more.
I am rebuilding my '73 C3 (body off) and when I try to re-install the driveshaft (BB engine, trans, driveshaft all new for this car), the driveshaft or its U-joint sit right next to the emergency brake cable bracket (which is welded to the frame). Any other option other than re-welding the bracket a few inched to the left?
Thanks,
Tom
There was a switch at some point in time to a wider trans yoke, 1330 u-joint and larger drive shaft from the smaller yoke which takes the 1310 u-joint. I don't know when the switch was made, but do know that the early cars (including big block) had the smaller yoke, 1310 u-joints and a small diameter drive shaft. At some later time, the corvettes got the larger yoke, u-joint, and drive shaft.
If you car originally had the smaller, but now has the larger, this might cause your interference. What is the measurement across your u-joint from cap end to cap end? If it is 3.219, it is a 1310; if it measures 3.625 it is a 1330 or 1350 (cap diameters 1.063 or 1.188, respectively).
I'm not sure what was original in your car, perhaps someone else knows.
There was a switch at some point in time to a wider trans yoke, 1330 u-joint and larger drive shaft from the smaller yoke which takes the 1310 u-joint. I don't know when the switch was made, but do know that the early cars (including big block) had the smaller yoke, 1310 u-joints and a small diameter drive shaft. At some later time, the corvettes got the larger yoke, u-joint, and drive shaft.
If you car originally had the smaller, but now has the larger, this might cause your interference. What is the measurement across your u-joint from cap end to cap end? If it is 3.219, it is a 1310; if it measures 3.625 it is a 1330 or 1350 (cap diameters 1.063 or 1.188, respectively).
I'm not sure what was original in your car, perhaps someone else knows.
Cheers
The early TKO kits had 1330 yokes, but for the last few years we have all been selling a smaller 1310 yoke with bolt-on girdles. It is probably not the yoke size. You can push the transmission to the side a bit, which required a little slotting in the holes of the mounting bracket, however you can't do too much adjusting or the yoke will hit the side of the tunnel. Making a small change to the e-cable bracket may be the better part of valor. AP
The early TKO kits had 1330 yokes, but for the last few years we have all been selling a smaller 1310 yoke with bolt-on girdles. It is probably not the yoke size. You can push the transmission to the side a bit, which required a little slotting in the holes of the mounting bracket, however you can't do too much adjusting or the yoke will hit the side of the tunnel. Making a small change to the e-cable bracket may be the better part of valor. AP
Thanks -- moving the emergency cable bracket a few inches does look like the easiest way to go.