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Car bogs down when in gear at WOT

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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 04:02 PM
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Default Car bogs down when in gear at WOT

77 with a q jet, Car will rev fine (5500 rpm's) in neutral but bogs down when in gear If I go WOT. I think its the Carb. Timing is fine , runs fine. shifts good. what could cause the bog?
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 05:40 PM
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If its starving for fuel maybe the fuel filter or sock in the tank or pump or S line going to the pump.The secondary air valve maybe?
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 05:45 PM
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Run some carb cleaner through it.



I had the same prob, though a bit differently. Under WOT, it ran great till 3,000 RPMs, then just bogged. Carb cleaner a few times got rid of it just fine.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 06:50 PM
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There are 3 likely causes:

1. Secondary airvalve spring windup is too loose. Make sure the spring windup is set at 3/4 turn and no looser.

2. Plugged filter. Replace the in-carb filter and make sure there are no other filters installed in-line anywhere.

3. Kinked rubber fuel line section. There are rubber fuel line sections back at the fuel tank and between the frame and the pump. Make sure none of the rubber lines are konked (common problem).

Lars
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by lars
There are 3 likely causes:

1. Secondary airvalve spring windup is too loose. Make sure the spring windup is set at 3/4 turn and no looser.

2. Plugged filter. Replace the in-carb filter and make sure there are no other filters installed in-line anywhere.

3. Kinked rubber fuel line section. There are rubber fuel line sections back at the fuel tank and between the frame and the pump. Make sure none of the rubber lines are konked (common problem).

Lars
New feul filter so I will check #1 & 3 as suggested.
Thanks
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 07:57 PM
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Okay did the secondary windup and it was loose so I tightened it up as told. Car still bogs when driving with a WOT burst. Funny thing is it will have no problem in neutral as it will shoot right up to 5K. I'm confused here.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 08:43 PM
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Points or electronic ignition?


edit:
Either way, ohm the spark plug wires, and the coil wire. Be sure to do the math for the different lengths.

Last edited by BigBlockTank; Dec 23, 2008 at 08:45 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 08:46 PM
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It is not bogging in neutral because the air door is not opening due to lack of demand.

Check timing. 90% of carb problems are really timing issues.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BigBlockTank
Points or electronic ignition?


edit:
Either way, ohm the spark plug wires, and the coil wire. Be sure to do the math for the different lengths.
Electronic ihnition
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveG75
It is not bogging in neutral because the air door is not opening due to lack of demand.

Check timing. 90% of carb problems are really timing issues.
Not sure what air door is
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by dogboy
Not sure what air door is
Air door = secondary air valve. Remember, the Q-Jet is a mechanical secondary carb but the air valve only opens on demand and there is no demand at idle even when revving the engine.

For timing, look for 36 degrees mechanical advance all in by 2500 rpm and an additional 14 degrees of vacuum for light cruise. I don't set advance at idle since I rarely drive with the engine at idle.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 08:16 AM
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A good place to checked for a kinked fuel line is, where the fuel line leaves the frame rail an turns to go to the fuel pump.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by dmaaero
A good place to checked for a kinked fuel line is, where the fuel line leaves the frame rail an turns to go to the fuel pump.
Feul line checks okay. Here's a new one though. I looked under car and found about a quart of tranny oil on garage floor. It looks like its coming from the front of tranny by the TQ? I just put a new gasket and filter in and it dosn't look like thats the cause of the leak. It was leaking before but not as bad thats why I changed out the gasket. I used RTV this time to secure any future leaks. Could this be a correlation or just another problem?
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by dogboy
Okay did the secondary windup and it was loose so I tightened it up as told. Car still bogs when driving with a WOT burst. .
There are brass tubes from secondary fuel wells that feeed the air door as it just begins to open. I havve seen these fall out onto the wells - no fuel as the air door starts to open = lean stubble. They are just a pressed fit into the air horn. If you have never taken the air horn off a Qjet before, I suggest you get some knowledgeable bud to help.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Rich's'78
There are brass tubes from secondary fuel wells that feeed the air door as it just begins to open. I havve seen these fall out onto the wells - no fuel as the air door starts to open = lean stubble. They are just a pressed fit into the air horn. If you have never taken the air horn off a Qjet before, I suggest you get some knowledgeable bud to help.
Yes I did have the Carb apart and added new gasket to stop a leak. I also checked float level and all looked well.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 02:08 PM
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If you let off the throttle a bit while its occurring do you regain some power and or bucking? If so I had the same problem. I thought it was the carb. So the smart thing was to get everything else right first. Tune-up, plugs wires,set up timing (32* all in.) Air filter fuel filter etc. It still bogged. So I rebuilt the carb. It still bogged. As a lot have explained in regards to a kinked fuel line, this was also my problem. It appeared to be OK looking at it but The fuel line from the frame transitioning to the pump was half collapsed and would not flow enough fuel to run over 4000 rpm while under load. Hope you can find the problem. It drove me nuts

Last edited by rayluka; Dec 24, 2008 at 02:24 PM.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rayluka
If you let off the throttle a bit while its occurring do you regain some power and or bucking? If so I had the same problem. I thought it was the carb. So the smart thing was to get everything else right first. Tune-up, plugs wires,set up timing (32* all in.) Air filter fuel filter etc. It still bogged. So I rebuilt the carb. It still bogged. As a lot have explained in regards to a kinked fuel line, this was also my problem. It appeared to be OK looking at it but The fuel line from the frame transitioning to the pump was half collapsed and would not flow enough fuel to run over 4000 rpm while under load. Hope you can find the problem. It drove me nuts
It will regain right away. If I accelerate slowly it will rev past 4K.
I just can't understand the load vs no load difference.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by dogboy
Timing is fine , runs fine. shifts good. what could cause the bog?
What do you mean by fine?
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 03:55 PM
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I had a similar problem, for a long time. It was the coil wire.
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 11:04 PM
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yeah this really sounds like an ignition problem to me. how is the module? has it been replaced or did you put a new one in with no heatsink compound? it sounds like something cant quite catch up to the rpms. its accelerates fine up to 5500rpm? almost like the coil heat up and drops off. have you changed anything latetly?
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