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Hydroboost Info ??????

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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 09:07 PM
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Default Hydroboost Info ??????

Who has info on who sells complete Hydroboost setups ready to install? TIA.
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 09:13 PM
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http://musclerodzstore.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=34
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 10:45 PM
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I couldn't get that link to work...just kept thinking, so I don't know their price.

Roger it's not too bad of a setup even buying all the components yourself instead of the kit. Usually they build a lot of profit into those kits and you can save a bit of money by sourcing some of it all yourself.

I'm sure you seen me telling others this but I have an information packet I put together with lots of text, pics, and diagrams outlining what the Hydrobooster is and what it does.

It'll paint a clear picture as to what you need to put that system in your car.

If you want I will email you the packet but I'll need your email address again, I haven't used it in so long I don't remember it. Just PM me your email address and I'll send you the information packet and I'll help you find all the parts if you want to do it yourself.

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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
I couldn't get that link to work...just kept thinking, so I don't know their price.

Roger it's not too bad of a setup even buying all the components yourself instead of the kit. Usually they build a lot of profit into those kits and you can save a bit of money by sourcing some of it all yourself.

I'm sure you seen me telling others this but I have an information packet I put together with lots of text, pics, and diagrams outlining what the Hydrobooster is and what it does.

It'll paint a clear picture as to what you need to put that system in your car.

If you want I will email you the packet but I'll need your email address again, I haven't used it in so long I don't remember it. Just PM me your email address and I'll send you the information packet and I'll help you find all the parts if you want to do it yourself.

Saving money is good....PM sent
I'll probably have a few (100)questions
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
Saving money is good....PM sent
I'll probably have a few (100)questions
Nah, it's a simple concept, just getting at the bolts up there is a super bitch, gotta take the whole dash outta there to do it, unless you very young, agile, small, us old dinosores have a tough time of it.....
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
Saving money is good....PM sent
I'll probably have a few (100)questions

Yeah the way I usually suggest to people will cost around $350 and that's even with buying a new master cylinder. The lines can be made by ordering parts from Summit and home assembled. I love when vendors put everything in a kit but I found you can save close to $300 every time by doing it yourself. I'll get that information kit sent to you ASAP.
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
Yeah the way I usually suggest to people will cost around $350 and that's even with buying a new master cylinder. The lines can be made by ordering parts from Summit and home assembled. I love when vendors put everything in a kit but I found you can save close to $300 every time by doing it yourself. I'll get that information kit sent to you ASAP.
Thanks Matt I'll be waiting to check it out.



Mrvette...I understand completely.Getting under and back out just kills me anymore.
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
Nah, it's a simple concept, just getting at the bolts up there is a super bitch, gotta take the whole dash outta there to do it, unless you very young, agile, small, us old dinosores have a tough time of it.....

Actually after doing it a few times I learned that with some very long extensions and a U-joint at the socket you can get all four nuts off from the driver's floor without removing any dash panels.
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
Actually after doing it a few times I learned that with some very long extensions and a U-joint at the socket you can get all four nuts off from the driver's floor without removing any dash panels.
agree!, Ive just done that bit, it was alot easier than everyone was saying, just take front seat out, lay on your back, and use long extensions and u joint, I had them all out in under a hour and started puting new bit back in.

dave
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 08:04 PM
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I've got a better way. Just strip the interior down to the fiberglass and steel, then the bolts are right there & easy to remove. For once I was at the right place at the right time.
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 08:37 PM
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Ive done the booster 2x now, once vacuum and once hydro.

1/4inch ratchet with about 18-24inch extension with a U-joint swivel to your socket. Just remember, I think it's the lower left bolt from the interior side has 2 nuts on it. Youll remove one and the booster still doesn't come out. Dont forget the 2nd nut

I removed the drivers seat both times.

Last edited by MN-Brent; Dec 12, 2008 at 09:18 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
and that's even with buying a new master cylinder
Matt is the new master cylinder the same one that originally comes on the car or is it a different type from another application?
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 10:19 AM
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You want the 77 and later style MC with shallow depth push.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 09:23 AM
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Roger did you have any questions about the whole process after looking over the information packet?

I forget is your Vette a manual or power brake car?
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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When I work under the dash for almost any length of time, I remove the driver's seat. It doesn't take long and it is much easier to get in and out. It is getting hard for me to get enough light and correct focal point in my glasses lined up. Sometimes I cannot tilt my head back far enough.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MN-Brent
Ive done the booster 2x now, once vacuum and once hydro.

1/4inch ratchet with about 18-24inch extension with a U-joint swivel to your socket. Just remember, I think it's the lower left bolt from the interior side has 2 nuts on it. Youll remove one and the booster still doesn't come out. Dont forget the 2nd nut

I removed the drivers seat both times.
UMM humm....sez HE, the rubber band man......
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 05:09 PM
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I removed my driver seat and steering colum and just laid on my back, took a bolt out stood up and regained circulation and went back, whole process took about 30 mins
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 04:54 PM
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Once you get the booster out...no matter the method, the best tip I can offer is that you push the four Hydrobooster mounting studs through from the inside. Just reach under and slide the studs out the holes into the engine compartment. Then you can slide the Hydrobooster onto the studs on the engine bay side, and tighten down four M10 shoulder nuts. The studs have shoulders on the inside and hold against the inside of the firewall like a wheel stud. It's SO much easier to tighten the nuts from the outside than it is to fool with them from under the dash.
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
Roger did you have any questions about the whole process after looking over the information packet?

I forget is your Vette a manual or power brake car?
The car has power brakes.The packet of info looks great and when I have a little more time I will sit down and really dig in to the specifics.I'm "SURE" I will have a few more questions. Thanks Matt
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
Once you get the booster out...no matter the method, the best tip I can offer is that you push the four Hydrobooster mounting studs through from the inside. Just reach under and slide the studs out the holes into the engine compartment. Then you can slide the Hydrobooster onto the studs on the engine bay side, and tighten down four M10 shoulder nuts. The studs have shoulders on the inside and hold against the inside of the firewall like a wheel stud. It's SO much easier to tighten the nuts from the outside than it is to fool with them from under the dash.
thats harder to do with new version, it now comes with a solid piece of aluminum thats about 3/4 inch thick, and the bolts are countersunk into it, so really it looks alot better and you would end up having to use longer bolts

dave
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