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Hey guys (and gals) another new kid from Missouri. Can anyone tell me what the minimum amount of engine vacuum is that a guy can get away with and still be able to operate the headlight doors and brake booster on a C3. I'm getting ready to select a solid roller cam for my stroker project and I need to figure out just how much duration I can run. If anyone has any personal experience as to what works and what wont I'd appreciate any input I can get.
Summit has a few vac pumps that are intended to provide 15 inch if vaccume for the brake booster. I don't wee why they won't work for headlights and wipers. $250 and up
I also have 8-9 inches of vacuum (with a 250+ duration @ .050 solid lifter cam), and my headlights and brakes work fine. Takes a few seconds more at startup, but no problems.
Thanks for the input guys, I was aware of the electric pumps but I'm trying to save cash due to tight finances and I'm kind of old school so I'd rather try to keep it "all motor". If the rest of you can get by with eight to nine inches I should be able to run all the duration I want. I talked to a guy on the Comp Cams Tech Line who recommended 236/242 @ .050 on a custom grind with 112* centerline instead of the 110* out of the box to help boost vacuum but it doesn't sound like it's going to be an issue. Once again thanks for the help!
IMHO the 112* LSA is a good call, as it will also flatten out the torque curve. Do spend the few extra bucks to get the steel core with iron gear.
Maybe I am confused as I am not as technical as some of you folks here. Shouldn't we mention if we have a small block vs a big block? The durration at 250 will be differnt when comparing a sm to a big block correct?
This is a good question R-Dub because now I know I have a problem as I only get 7.5 at idle in drive (Not park) and brakes stink and headlights now do not work after a brand new engine.
Duration @ 0.050": 242° / 248°
Last edited by 76 sting; Dec 20, 2008 at 08:21 AM.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by 76 sting
Maybe I am confused as I am not as technical as some of you folks here. Shouldn't we mention if we have a small block vs a big block? The durration at 250 will be differnt when comparing a sm to a big block correct?
This is a good question R-Dub because now I know I have a problem as I only get 7.5 at idle in drive (Not park) and brakes stink and headlights now do not work after a brand new engine.
Duration @ 0.050": 242° / 248°
Tho SB's and BB's are different animals, the effect of widening the LSA a couple of degrees will have the same net benefits (generally, the smaller the cid the more significant the effect). Assuming the cam in question is an XSR series, unless CompCams has recently changed the specs the lobe library does not indicate a variation of profiles between SB and BB XSR grinds. Your cam being a step larger than the one R-Dub is considering, I'm not surprised that you have a bit less vacuum than being discussed here and suggest that a supplemental pump or less cam (if you haven't gone too high on the CR) may be in order for your application.
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Dec 20, 2008 at 11:23 AM.
I'm not surprised that you have a bit less vacuum than being discussed here and suggest that a supplemental pump or less cam (if you haven't gone too high on the CR) may be in order for your application.
Thanks...I do not want to run a pump (more weight and stuff to go wrong) and I need 10's at the track so am surley not going smaller on the cam, if anything I want to go a little bigger. present CR is 10.3
What concerned me was that folks here have larger cams then I do which is leaving me to believe that something else is wrong with the picture.
less vacuum slower the acc. are to operate, they will work with 5" eventually.
how long you want to wait ? .....I would guess 10" min 12" for satisfactory operation of wipers and lights. I choose a milder cam, because of preferring better vacuum.
good luck....69VETT
I have 10-11" of vacuum on my LS-5, at idle, and my headlights, wiper door, heat, and A/C all work fine. And the headlights come up pretty quick and at the same time!
Maybe I am confused as I am not as technical as some of you folks here. Shouldn't we mention if we have a small block vs a big block? The durration at 250 will be differnt when comparing a sm to a big block correct?
This is a good question R-Dub because now I know I have a problem as I only get 7.5 at idle in drive (Not park) and brakes stink and headlights now do not work after a brand new engine.
Duration @ 0.050": 242° / 248°
I see in your info you have a 383, correct?......my cam is bigger but it is in a 427 small block. The extra cubes tame the cam down, making it less radical though the duration is more. Also your choice of heads and intake comes into play, as better cfm flow makes a more efficient engine. My LSA is 108, but my idle is not as radical as some 244 dur. cams I've heard on 383 motors.
I see in your info you have a 383, correct?......my cam is bigger but it is in a 427 small block. The extra cubes tame the cam down, making it less radical though the duration is more. Also your choice of heads and intake comes into play, as better cfm flow makes a more efficient engine. My LSA is 108, but my idle is not as radical as some 244 dur. cams I've heard on 383 motors.
OK thanks...that makes sense. It now appears that I have a new vac issue.
76 Sting, I am not at all offended by the hijack. I jumped in here to try to learn something and I have gotten lots of hard numbers to work with.
I would like to ask TheSkunkWorks to expound a little on his reasoning for suggesting the steel core with iron gear. I assume it would eliminate the need for a bronze distributor drive gear. I'd like to know what the other pros or cons might be. It's been over twenty-five years since I've built a high output engine and things have changed a lot. Back then rollers were only for the big money racer guys.