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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 12:03 AM
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Default 454 Stroke?

How far can I practacally take a Mark IV Gen 1 454 block as far as stroke. My goal is low end torque from 1500 to 5000 RPM's.
I have the 781 iron heads with bigger valves.
XE68h cam w/ roller rockers.
Will have a dual quad edelbrock on top.
Thanks in advance,
Sly
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by sly vette
How far can I practacally take a Mark IV Gen 1 454 block as far as stroke. My goal is low end torque from 1500 to 5000 RPM's.
I have the 781 iron heads with bigger valves.
XE68h cam w/ roller rockers.
Will have a dual quad edelbrock on top.
Thanks in advance,
Sly
Some of these guys can take these BB to astronomical places!!I have a 496 here that I ran in a jet boat that I had.Steel 65 vette 396/425 horse heads w/bigger valves,and massaged by one of the best heads guy in the US.Radical solid lift cam.Roller rockers,stud girdle,Team G,and 750 DP.It's going in a 68 convertible here,but when it was in my 21 foot jet boat w/berkley jet pump...I ATE brand new 502 Bajas for lunch.They didn't have a chance!I will say the Baja owner did have some pretty nice bikini clad young rascals hanging around over in the party cove tho'.
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 06:22 AM
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I think 4.25 is about the end of it. A least in economic terms. At 4.25 you'll need to check clearance between the pan rails and the bottom of the cylinders and possibly do some grinding. Past that, any more and it'll probably take some pretty exotic stuff.
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by sly vette
How far can I practacally take a Mark IV Gen 1 454 block as far as stroke. My goal is low end torque from 1500 to 5000 RPM's.
I have the 781 iron heads with bigger valves.
XE68h cam w/ roller rockers.
Will have a dual quad edelbrock on top.
Thanks in advance,
Sly
I am using 4 bolt mk4 +.030" 454 with 4.25" crank = 489 cu in. With Brodix RRO Heads, mild hyd cam, 950 cfm & Air Gap Inlet power band starts at 1200 rpm and dyno's 565 ft/lbs @ 3800 rpm. Gives 528 bhp @ 5850 rpm.
+.060" goes 496, +.100" (if block will take it) goes 502 ish. Use a 4.375" crank (if you can get one) and grind crank clearance and you can squeeze 505 to 515 ish.
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 10:10 AM
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Here is a 4.375 stroke kit, which is pretty much the stroke limit with a low deck block.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-B...QQcmdZViewItem

This kit and the cam you mentioned wouldnt be a good match though.
The DCR would be over 8.5 which is unlikely to work with pump gas.
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by TimAT
I think 4.25 is about the end of it. A least in economic terms. At 4.25 you'll need to check clearance between the pan rails and the bottom of the cylinders and possibly do some grinding. Past that, any more and it'll probably take some pretty exotic stuff.
you will have to notch the bottom of the cylinders to clear the rods, that is a given...
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by GDaina
you will have to notch the bottom of the cylinders to clear the rods, that is a given...
Very true.Mine are notched.On the computer at the shop(JUNK!!!!),but will try to post pics of my bottom end at lunch.Not MY bottom end,but you know.....bottom end of the.....
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 11:05 AM
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Not to hi-jack, but I really would like to see some pictures of these notches needed for a 4.25 stroke, I got a couple of Mk IV 454 blocks laying around, and I got a 496 build idea in my mind for a while now, just I cant figure how to notch the end of the cylinders.
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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install the crank and bearings torque to specs, install one piston w/bearing, torque to spec...slowly rotate the crank and where the rod meets the bottom of the cyl, that's where you notch...until you have clearance...dremmel works good, but don't go wild with the grinding...small amounts at a time...do one cyl at a time....

'Pics won't tell you how much you have to grind...
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by roscobbc
I am using 4 bolt mk4 +.030" 454 with 4.25" crank = 489 cu in. With Brodix RRO Heads, mild hyd cam, 950 cfm & Air Gap Inlet power band starts at 1200 rpm and dyno's 565 ft/lbs @ 3800 rpm. Gives 528 bhp @ 5850 rpm.
+.060" goes 496, +.100" (if block will take it) goes 502 ish. Use a 4.375" crank (if you can get one) and grind crank clearance and you can squeeze 505 to 515 ish.
Originally Posted by DRIVESHAFT
Here is a 4.375 stroke kit, which is pretty much the stroke limit with a low deck block.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-B...QQcmdZViewItem



This kit and the cam you mentioned wouldnt be a good match though.
The DCR would be over 8.5 which is unlikely to work with pump gas.
Lots of good info. Thanks But the rear main is 2 pc. and mine is 1 pc. I think i'll call them though.

Originally Posted by GDaina
you will have to notch the bottom of the cylinders to clear the rods, that is a given...
No biggie,but when I first got this block I was told here that the block would accept a .250 stroke with no mods.
Would have picked it up in pre-assembly anyway.
Sly

Last edited by sly vette; Dec 22, 2008 at 01:01 PM. Reason: STOOPID!!!
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sly vette
Lots of good info. Thanks But the rear main is 2 pc. and mine is 1 pc. I think i'll call them though.
Summit has the adapter about $100 that will solve that problem...


Originally Posted by sly vette
No biggie,but when I first got this block I was told here that the block would accept a .250 stroke with no mods.
Would have picked it up in pre-assembly anyway.
Sly
Don't take their word for it...check out the rod to block clearance...one cyl at a time
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by GDaina
install the crank and bearings torque to specs, install one piston w/bearing, torque to spec...slowly rotate the crank and where the rod meets the bottom of the cyl, that's where you notch...until you have clearance...dremmel works good, but don't go wild with the grinding...small amounts at a time...do one cyl at a time....

'Pics won't tell you how much you have to grind...

So its only a minor clearance problem which can be handled with a hand dremel tool? .. thats good, I thought it was a machine-shop grade modification. Thanks.
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by GDaina
install the crank and bearings torque to specs, install one piston w/bearing, torque to spec...slowly rotate the crank and where the rod meets the bottom of the cyl, that's where you notch...until you have clearance...dremmel works good, but don't go wild with the grinding...small amounts at a time...do one cyl at a time....

'Pics won't tell you how much you have to grind...
also, be sure to prevent the dust/shards from the grinding from making their way into oil passages and cylinders with pistons installed. ask me how i know...
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sly vette
Lots of good info. Thanks But the rear main is 2 pc. and mine is 1 pc. I think i'll call them though.
Are you sure? You said you had a Mark IV block.
As far as I know, those were all 2 piece rear seal.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 07:02 AM
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I got wrapped up yesterday delivering Angel tree gifts,then the wife took me out for my B-day last night....YEH!!!!
Here's the pics of the bottom end of the stroker w/the block notched for clearance.

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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 07:19 AM
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Mark...it is expensive,but the guy that did the head work on these 65 396/425 horse heads has been in several articles,and was making MORE horsepower after his finesse w/iron heads,than the out of the box high dollar aluminums for guys needing iron heads in their different racing classes.This isn't wishful thinking.This is dyno runs to compare.He's up by Chicago.Super nice guy.The receipt here for the heads is 1483,and some change w/out the Crane roller rockers,and stud girdle.....
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by DRIVESHAFT
Are you sure? You said you had a Mark IV block.
As far as I know, those were all 2 piece rear seal.
Typo.... I have a 2 pc. seal!!!

Drop that one in my car, Kev!!!
Sly
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