When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm trying to torque the bolt that holds the balancer on my 73. Even with the sparkplugs in it crank wants to turn. How do you guys keep the crank from turnning?
I have never TQ it with a foot pound measuring device. I have a manual tranny. So I left the car in gear and put a 1/2 inch breaker bar on the grade 8 damper bolt to tighten it once. It snapped the bolt off flush with the crank snout. It took me a couple hours of cussing to EZ-Out the hardened bolt.
I learned to just make it tight with a lock washer and call it good.
When I have assembled motors on stand I have put a big screw driver through a flex plate and hit the damper bolt with a 3/8th air gun turned down to sub 50 #'s. So it could be done the same in a car with an auto tranny.
I have never TQ it with a foot pound measuring device. I have a manual tranny. So I left the car in gear and put a 1/2 inch breaker bar on the grade 8 damper bolt to tighten it once. It snapped the bolt off flush with the crank snout. It took me a couple hours of cussing to EZ-Out the hardened bolt.
I learned to just make it tight with a lock washer and call it good.
When I have assembled motors on stand I have put a big screw driver through a flex plate and hit the damper bolt with a 3/8th air gun turned down to sub 50 #'s. So it could be done the same in a car with an auto tranny.
I too am convinced them bolts don't need any 5000 ft lbs on them....I just use locktight red and snug it down....
old Pontiacs used to spec something really stupid like 150 ft lbs or such.....another silly number, just ignored...4 taps with the lug hammer.....
hammer handle on the ring gear or any wood product wedged between the bell-housing and ring gear if you dont have an appropriate proper tool. {impact}...as yellow 72 suggested......
A quick shot on the impact will do it,that bolt isn't that critical.I've pulled apart a few SBC's that didn't even have the bolt or the crankshaft tapped for it!
I made a special tool that works if the engine is out and on a stand. It bolts to the block and has teeth that engage the flywheel teeth to keep it from turning. It also works great for installing clutch and pressure plate.
Stick a screwdriver thru the flexplate or wedge the flywheel with a pry bar against the bellhousing.
I use loctite elsewhere but I don't much like loctite on damper bolt ... never used it on chevy d bolt ... not even race chevy. Not saying loctite's wrong ... to each his own.