When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm sure someone is going to ask "why would you ever want to remove POR15 if done right?" but the reason I'm interested in how hard it is to remove is because I'd like to treat some areas of my frame in the near future to prevent any further rust but would be performing a full frame off restoration later down the road (much later) and would like to be able to strip/repair/reseal the frame properly at that time.
So is this stuff impossible to remove or does media blasting take care of it?
Not having personal experience with POR, but from what I have read:
I would not do this. From what I have read, if you even slop POR on the lip of the can and put the lid back on, you'll never get it back off again. I can only imagine how difficult it would be to remove after properly applied to a surface. If you are only going for a temp solution, I would get an epoxy primer and a good topcoat for this temporary solution. Cost you about $100 for a quart of each, which goes quite far after you thin it to spray.
I also have stayed away from POR because of its UV sensitivity and need of an additional topcoat over it, but to each his own on that one I guess. I am sure that you will get a lot of good reports on it.
Youll have to sandblast it off, its tough stuff. I tried doing a differential (brushed it on) while it was on the car many years ago trying to avoid a frame off. Long story short the body came off, the rearend...I took it to a sandblasting place. They tried to charge me extra and accused me of lying about it being painted and not powdercoated
Last winter, I decided to powder coat a couple parts that I had applied POR15 on. Impossible in my blasting cabinet with medium grit aggregate! I ended up using a aircraft paint remover then using the blasting cabinet for final cleaning.
Last winter, I decided to powder coat a couple parts that I had applied POR15 on. Impossible in my blasting cabinet with medium grit aggregate! I ended up using a aircraft paint remover then using the blasting cabinet for final cleaning.
Hi Ice,
I believe there are many products that will give you enough protection until you're ready to 'restore', but will easier to remove at that time.
Wasn't POR-15 developed for severely rusted metal that couldn't be properly cleaned? Do you need something that serious?
Happy New Year!
Regards,
Alan
Try using Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. It will give good protection for now and probably well into the future, and will be much easier to remove than POR when the time comes.
One of my customers was told by a company rep. for por-15 that the stuff was designed to bond only on rust not sand blasted metal. I don't know if anyone tried it on anything but rusted metal, but he said on anything else, it would eventually peel. Personally, I don't like the stuff. I believe the only way to do it right is to sandblast the metal and powdercoat or epoxy prime and paint.
Yeah, I bought into the who POR15 deal big time when I first started my project. Blasted frame, coated with POR15 and a couple of top coats. Now I am having buyer's remorse. Talking about kicking myself in the butt. I figure it will likely wait until I have the body back on her and ready to drive before it starts peeling. Until that time, I'm hosed.
Ironically, I just found out from a local PC guy that he would have done the the frame (62 vette) job for around $500.00. Another guy quoted $1500 and it was that price that convinced me to go with the POR15.
I would love a do-over on this one. Oh, the local PC guy says he can remove POR15 using plastic bead. Hard to believe, but he says he has done it for others who have taken the wrong path. No cheap at $125.00/hr, but it can be done.
One of my customers was told by a company rep. for por-15 that the stuff was designed to bond only on rust not sand blasted metal. I don't know if anyone tried it on anything but rusted metal, but he said on anything else, it would eventually peel.
That is correct. If you spray it on clean metal, it will peel off. It needs rust to "bite" properly. They also sell a product for etching clean metal which will allow the POR15 to stick to it, but that just seems bass ackwards to me.
I have a half-empty can of POR-15 in the garage fridge' now. Lid comes off very easily everytime I want to use a little. Secret:
Clean both lid and can mating areas with a cloth and a screwdriver tip pushing the cloth down in the lip valley and clean it out pristine or use q-tips before re-installing the lid. Then - turn the can upside down - place in a big zip lock bag and put in fridge. Keeps forever.
Just gotta' remember that it is very thick and sluggish until it warms up