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New 383 runs !!!

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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 09:42 PM
  #1  
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leskinner
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From: deland fl
Default New 383 runs !!!

Hi Guys-
Cranked up the newly rebuilt 383 this weekend, music to my ears !
However, now with this huge milestone behind me, several issues have reared their ugly heads. Couldn't recurve the distributer because the tach doesn't work, probably burned board. Couldn't run very long because the oil pressure and temp gauge don't work, keeps blowing the 10 amp "gauges" fuse. In fact, none of the gauges work. Have a vacumn leak somewhere, probably headlights (very slow up and down), all rebuilt with new vac lines. Leak in newly recored radiator, haven't found that yet. I was going to paint next but I think at this point I'm going to remove the dash and find the source (#18 pink wire)of the short that keeps blowing the gauges fuse and replace the tach board. I wanted to do the interior last but......
I'll search the archives for help with all this but any guidance from ya'll would be very appreciated. I'm gittin' waaaay to old for this foolishness.
Thanks !
Larry
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 10:25 PM
  #2  
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vettesbydesign
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From: Forsyth Illinois
Default

I'm not a electrical guy,but wanted to say congrats on the fire up.
I just got my engine back in the other day w/Brodix heads,and new mildly solid lifter cam,and surrounding hardware,and it is a BLAST!!!!Now I have to pull the intake,and swap the old one back on.
Contact forum member DWENCH.He is a magician one fixing these cars,and knows his stuff,and always there to offer help.
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 10:00 PM
  #3  
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odiethe1st
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Default Vacuum Problems

I'm sure there's waaay more qualified opinions on this forum, but I found both my headlight regulators leaking...causing extremely slow headlight operation, if at all. The engine vacuum (taken at manifold) was still good, but taken at the front tank it was quite low. Another poster had suggested soaking o-rings of regulator in silicone lube as a last ditch effort to save some $$$...haven't re-tried them yet.

Blowing a 10A fuse in gauges seems like something big grounding out. Have you double checked all wiring (input & lighting) to make sure it still makes sense? Way to go bringing it back to life...it's a big milestone! I'd also wait to get it painted until you rid it of all the gremlins. A dropped wrench or garage rash while tinkering would be devasting to a $$$$$$ paint job. Good luck.
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 11:13 PM
  #4  
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From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
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Did the gauges all work before the engine swap? Maybe a pinched wire someplace- it's happened before.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 01:17 PM
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From: deland fl
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Thanks for the responses guys-
I will try the silicone in the headlight valve trick and I have no idea if the gauges previously worked or not. When I bought this thing it had been sitting in a "pile" for 15 years. The PO and I got it running well enough for him to drive onto my trailer, I drove it off into my shop when I got it home but didn't bother to check gauges. I removed the body and did a total chassis restoration. Now that the body is back on and motor running I look under the dash and it looks like a rats nest, literally. I believe my only recourse is to remove the dash and restore whatever is there, and evict the rats in the process. I think the PO was a real Bubba so there's no telling what I'll find.
I did copy from Wilcox a detailed step by step instruction on dash removal (Thanks Wilcox !!).
Heading out to the shop now, I'm goin' in !
Thanks
Larry
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 02:26 PM
  #6  
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From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
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A new underdash wiring harness from Lectric Limited is not a bad option. Mine was fairly easy to install and the wire in the new harness is much superior to the stock wiring. Not a big investment to keep from burning your car up, especially on a fresh restoration.
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